My review of converting to a full flow oil system

[vCo2v]

I've had a major exhaust manifold leak, found out that 5 of them were loose and 3 studs were stripped. Ordered the driftmotion 7/16 stud kit and had a major leak somewhere on the block (turbo lines and oil cooler lines). Also leaking from my valve covers, so I decided to fix all of that and convert to a full flow oil system.

I bought a mishimoto oil cooler 10 -an fittings aeroquip socketless hose and the other stuff. It was some long tough stuff and drilling into the head was no easy task with the engine still in the car.

I've been driving it about a week now with this setup and I'm blown away. The oil pressure is consistent and there when its supposed to be. my coolant temperature is slightly lower because it doesn't have to work overtime cooling the hot oil (I'm assuming). And when I open the hood to check my engine, the engine bay temp is a lot lower. Its usually substantially hot under there.

All in all it was worth the work and cost. I could've used cheaper parts, but I'm glad I spent a little more with the socketless aeroquip stuff, it made life A LOT easier.

I recommend for anyone who hasn't switched to a full flow to do it, I can see why it'll keep the engine alive a lot longer.

 

[kakanator]

were did you get all the stuff and what did you use for hoes xrp push lock i take it? the plate that goes on the block how did you found the thread pitch?

 

[vCo2v]

there's a full flow guide here http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ostat-Controlled-Oil-Cooler-amp-Remote-Filter

I bought the NA stud from driftmotion, but any toyota parts dealer online can be bought. I bought everything else on summit racing. Used 10 -an aeroquip socketless hoses and their fittings. Got npt to -an fittings to accomadate the remote filter and straight o-ring for the thermostat and housing.

A lot of searching and research