My flushmounts and how I did it

cjsupra90

previously chris90na-t
Jun 11, 2005
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honestabe;1410047 said:
Beat me to it. Thanks CJ. RawMK3, PM sent.

Your welcome man... Is that who you got yours through?? I've got a set of the 60mm moduals that I was thinking of doing the same thing with but I think they are gonna be a bit too big. Im actually thinking of attemping to build up blisters on the headlight cover so that way the Polycarbonate will have blisters molded in for the bigger lights (a.k.a. C5R Vette conversions)... This is if I decide to keep my car.
 

cjsupra90

previously chris90na-t
Jun 11, 2005
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So are you still going to do them the same as the previous one?

I had a different idea over the blistered cover like I mentioned before but its hard to explain and I dont have photoshop so its hard for me to fo a picture of what Im thinking about. (im sure though many wont like it but whatever)

One thing that might be helpful in bracing your core support is a diagnal tube behind the lights from the core to the inner fender. This would help brace the core better and will add a small amount of rigidity to the chassis.... Any time you triangulate a corner, you'll help with strength and rigidity....
 

honestabe

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Jan 15, 2006
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cjsupra90;1419721 said:
So are you still going to do them the same as the previous one?

I had a different idea over the blistered cover like I mentioned before but its hard to explain and I dont have photoshop so its hard for me to fo a picture of what Im thinking about. (im sure though many wont like it but whatever)

One thing that might be helpful in bracing your core support is a diagnal tube behind the lights from the core to the inner fender. This would help brace the core better and will add a small amount of rigidity to the chassis.... Any time you triangulate a corner, you'll help with strength and rigidity....

Yes I will be doing them similar to the 2nd generation flushmounts. Although the 3rd generation flushmounts will be highly refined and look 10x cleaner. The bracing that's been done will be more than enough. Remember, I still have to mount the ballasts for the HID's (2 for each side of the car, 4 in all) and have limited room with which to do so cleanly.
 

cjsupra90

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Jun 11, 2005
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Adding the bracing that I was talking about wouldn't take up much room at all. Unless you have drastically large ballasts, mounting them shouldn't take up much room. Another option to mounting the ballasts is under the flush mount assemblies.... As for being enough, it might do the job but Im still talk about for the cars rigidity overall, not just bracing the opening that you created. Triagulating the engine bay usually does wonders for chassis rigidity.... I guess it really comes down to the use of the car. A DD doesnt really need the rigidity of track car.
 

honestabe

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My ballasts are digital and slim. I never thought of mounting the ballasts on the under belly of the lights, that's a really good idea. If I do that I can add even more bracing. My car isn't a DD, it'll be a track/street car. More track than street but fully streetable. I'm all for making my car stiffer. Hell, I'm replacing the bushings in my Supra's subframes shortly after I reinforce the rear subframe.
 

honestabe

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Well I decided to work more on the lights, and I ended up getting the mock-up complete. Tomorrow I'm going to see if I can adjust the passenger side fender light down some. The boxes are complete though, as are the lenses. Yes, I did use hot glue as a filler since I cut away too much material. I'll probably end up borrowing a piece of wood from the neighbor and making new copies of the lenses and fine tune them. The main task at hand tomorrow, start cutting the polycarbonate and glue pieces together.












 

honestabe

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Well I had to remake one of the mounting brackets for the passenger side box today. I also finished up the mounting of the drivers side light and made up the template for the light cover (it'll cover the actual lights and make them hidden). I also cut the holes for the drivers side lights. I just have to adjust the lights and then seal them.






 

honestabe

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I forgot to post this in the thread. I made this at the end of October. Now that I have my light boxes back, I need to mount my lights and then make a matching panel for the passenger side.I did the best I could to make the bends with a mallet, a friend standing on the work bench while I bent the sheet down, and a cutoff wheel/angle grinder.




I got my flushmount boxes today. I'm hoping to get some work done on the flushmounts tomorrow.


 
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honestabe

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Some actual progress today :) The flushmounts are almost ready to be sent to paint, I just need to drill the holes for the lights and then they'll go to paint.

2edcg9t.jpg

fvaft3.jpg

2wqefis.jpg

a3gso1.jpg

4r2uys.jpg
 

honestabe

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Apparrently I keep forgetting to update this thread, here's the updates to catch ya'll up to speed.



Drilled the holes in my headlight boxes for the headlights, as well as mounted the lights and the drivers side light cover.






I finished fabbing up the passenger side headlight cover, and then took both covers and boxes down to the local paint shop that painted my ds fender a year ago (along with my pass side front mud flap as a color reference). I also modified a washer that helps hold on the gas tank cover (pounded out the bolt, then flattened the washer so it is as flat as I can get it, along with cutting one side flat so it's nearly flush with the edge of the cover). And because of where I'm bolting the top of the cover to, I had to cut a really long bolt I had laying around in half since it was about an inch too long.



Went to TAP Plastics today and had my lenses roughly cut to match my templates from 3/4" acrylic since 5/8" isn't an option. I also had a ledge added to the drivers side lense since the box is too wide (not really sure how the hell that happened, but it's too late now). I need to use a router to shave off some of the lense on the edges to make it flush, but that's a minor job and I'm probably going to have to angle the front of the lenses too to make them match. While at TAP I also picked up some 20 mil clear permanent bonding tape to mount the lenses since the ledges which the lenses are mounted on are painted and it'll look better than having white foam tape. The lenses are going to require atleat an hour each of fine tuning before they'll be ready to mount.