mk2-1jz's "the build"

[mk2-1jz]

copy pasta from CS.com

So this thread is going to be the progression of the build on my supra. I'm going to put everything here from now on. My suspension, brakes and the motor which is coming soon, and any other ideas or insights I find while going along with the build. Hopefully this thread can also become a general information thread for others progressing in their own builds. I'll do as much as I can to post up my ideas and methods. Pictures are a huge part of this so I'm going to be posting a lot. A lot of the pictures I will be posting will be cell phone pics because I take them while I am working on the car, I don't always have access to my good camera. But bear with me please.


Progression may be slow at times, but I am determined. The car is in storage and I have time to try out different things and post my findings.


To start I'll go with my most recent project. The front brakes. Then the suspension (with links to my original build thread) I'll condense it all in here. And hopefully come spring the 2j project will start.

So far:

Brakes: 50% complete.

Suspension: 80% complete

Motor: 0% complete

Just to tell you guys, I'm building this thread and working on it, I have a lot of info to put so its not going to get done all today. Also, the car is in storage for the winter, so I wont have any road tested opinions before at least spring depending on what stage the car is at by then. If money goes well I might have the motor out by then. Any updates will be posted.

If you have any questions or comments about the information in this thread, if you find it to be incorrect or incomplete please keep it to email and I will fix it properly. I appreciate the feedback and don't mind fixing any errors I have made.

fourspeedhemi426@hotmail.com

I am currently at this state. These were taken a few days before I took her off the road for winter.

yes, there is in fact is a yellow spider that resides under my hood.

 

[mk2-1jz]

Brakes



This is how my front set up is going to work. (for noobs no hating) Thanks to Peewee I am aiming for this, but using larger rotors.

To start, I must also thank rsdeo for his commitment to providing the most helpful brake swap information thread ever. A lot of what I will post here are bits from the long list of items he has posted to work in his thread, thanks Raj.

I visited a lot of threads and build threads collecting information and getting ideas. Thank you all for posting it up.


**(#) = See below for explicative pictures.


2008 Nissan 350Z Track discs.
- 330mm diameter 5 bolt disc.
- Slotted
- Drilled
- **(1)Re-drilled lug pattern to 4x114.3
- **(2)Centering ring made to float the disc on the front face of the MKII hub.
- **(3)Machine front MKII Hub hats to fit inside diameter of disc.

Z32 (1989-2000) front calipers from a 300zx.

- Aluminum
- 4 piston
- Bolt straight up to MK2 front struts in stock caliper location. (no modification)
- **(4) I purchased these calipers with spacers already made to adapt them to a 330mm diameter disc.
- Stainless braided brake lines.

How and why am I doing this?


How?

The front MKII disc set up consists of a disc bolted to the back of the hub. For the 330 MM z32 swap you must machine pieces to place the disc in front of the hub. To "float it". Float because it is not attached to the hub. Once the wheel is bolted, it will secure it in place.

To do this swap using the stock MKII hub you must follow these steps.

- Have disc re-drilled to 4x114.3 to fit Supra hub bolt pattern.
- **(2) You must have a centering ring made to ensure the discs are hub centric. Not lug centric, if you just bolt them with no centering ring you run the risk of having vibrations from the discs. The reason you do this is because the 350Z discs inner hub diameter is larger than the MKII disc, you must fill this space to make the disc hub centric. Just like you would buy little plastic spacers to make your wheels hub centric. Same principal.

- If you wish to go with a 330mm disc you must have a custom bracket machined to raise the caliper height to fit over the disc. RWDcelicadude spoke at one time of having them made, I do not know if he is still committed to this. I purchased my pieces from him and they are of very good quality. If not you may use a mazda MPV disc which is discussed in Rajs "brake conversion" thread.

If you have not visited yet, please do! He has put so much time in researching this topic and has an enormous amount of valuable information.

http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=3727&highlight=brake+swap

- **(3)Machine down the Hat. I want to explain what a "hat" is. The face of the disc, its diameter is considered to be the hub "hat"

Why?

Simple, heat dispersion and braking force. My plan is to plant a 2j in this thing and I dont feel like having to deal with heat fade.

Next up on the list for the brakes:

-** Machine down hub hats to fit inside of disc.
- 1" diameter bore master cylinder and a tuff decision between mazda rx7 rear calipers or nissan truck rear calipers.

more to come as I do the research.

Pictures



After machining the centering rings and having them re-drilled to 4x114.3

**(1)

**(2)

**(3) If you dont machine it down, the disc wont fit over the hub.

**(4) Caliper spacer to clear the extra height of the 330mm disc

Reference Pics

The stock MKII Hub/disc design[/SIZE][/B]

The brakes how I had received them They were originally used with a front 5 bolt swap. I opted not to go 5 bolt.

Measurements

Comparison (260-330)

 

[mk2-1jz]

Suspension


For the how-to guide see my Rear adjustable Suspension thread

http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=43648&highlight=rear+adjustable

**(#) = See below for explicative pictures.


**(1)Ground Control (eibach) Coil over sleeves
- Aluminum
- 500 lbs spring rate

**(2) Eibach Rear springs
- 5.5” tall by 9.5” tall uncompressed. 8.5” compressed,

**(3) Adjustable Spring spacer (weld on)
- Adjustable from 2.5” under stock to 2.5” over stock.

**(4) Addco Sway Bars
- Front is 1 1/8” thick 15lbs
- Rear is ¾” 10.8lbs
- Installation procedure to come.

**(5) LJM front Strut Bar
- Custom made
- Powder coated black

**(6)TSC Rear Strut Brace (awaiting arrival)
- Custom made
- Polished

**(7) Daves2jzgte’s Weld-in rear camber mod
- 0.7 degrees negative camber at 2.5 inches of drop in the rear

**(8) Super Pro Polyurethane bushings
- Rear table bushings
- Rear sub-frame bushings

**(9) Energy Suspension bushings
- Front table Bushings
- Strut rod bushings

Things on the to buy/modify list to complete the set-up.

- 2x KYB AGX SW20 MR2 front strut inserts. 4 way adjustable.
- 2x KYB AGX Focus rear shocks. 8 way adjustable.
- Techno Toy tuning camber plates
- Techno Toy turning Roll center adjusters
- Cut and section front strut tubes to fit SW20 inserts and weld on new perch for GC coil-overs to tuck the front wheels.



**(1)Ground Control (eibach) Coil over sleeves

**(2) Eibach Rear springs

**(3) Adjustable Spring spacers (weld on)

**(5) LJM front Strut Bar

**(6)TSC Rear Strut Brace (awaiting arrival) NOT my car

**(7) Daves2jzgte’s Weld-in rear camber mod

**(8) Super Pro Polyurethane bushings

**(9) Energy Suspension bushings

Reference Pictures

 

[mk2-1jz]

Motor 1

 

[mk2-1jz]

motor 2

 

[mk2-1jz]

any questions or comments please email me.

fourspeedhemi426@hotmail.com

thanks

 

[bmoss85]

I deffinitly like where this build is going! Looking really good so far.

 

[92TealSupra]

Nice job so far. Keep it up!

 

[mk2-1jz]

thanks guys, will do

 

[mk2-1jz]

---------- Post added at 04:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:06 PM ----------

I also have the write up for that coilover set up

///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

In this mini write up I'm installing:

SW20 MR2 REAR Struts in the front of my car, cutting down the SUPRA strut tubes to fit them. Installing a custom spring perch and sitting the collars very low.
MA61 Roll center adjusters

MA61 Excell G struts compared to SW20 MR2 AGX struts

To get this: This doesnt rub, I'll show a picture of what does rub at the end of the write up.

You must do some cutting and welding.

I already semi modified my front suspension to have the perches sit as low as possible, but this was not enough.

I had already cut the original spring perch off to gain another 1/2 inch of drop

I couldnt find the miter box of course, so I used this method to get the straightest cut possible, you could have used this method with a grinder as well, but I used a sawsall.

Most people suggest removing 40mm of tube from the strut housing, I found that 40mm was a bit too much, the strut nut will only hold on a few threads if you cut this much out, I went with between 35-37 mm of tube.

Check fitment.

Add your spring perch. I went to a metal shop to find the perfect piece of pipe to use to make my perch, it was so tight I had to grind the paint off the strut to get it to slide down. I placed it 90mm under the strut nut AFTER cutting.

Wrap the shock with some teflon tape, to make sure the strut stays perfectly centered, then tack your piece, dont weld it like this or you will damage the strut.

Make sure everything is centerered and the strut nut is in place keeping the strut perfectly centered. If you are not careful at this moment and the strut housing is welded while it is crooked you will never be able to thread the strut nut on, be warned...

Put some paint on that sucker

Install the coilover sleeve

Install the RCA, they fit really tight, press fit, so you have to take a block of wood and tap them on.

Paint the caliper a funky color (this is a necessary step) then install the strut.

I didnt take many pics of this, but it is an important fact. If you want to run RCAs with the stock wheels, you have to remove the grease nipple from the lower ball joint. I did it by tapping a thread into the balljoint and putting a bolt with some teflon tape on it. M6 if im not mistaken is the closest fit

Be sad that the Cusco camber plates haven't arrived yet

So on the first shot, I said, lets go mega slammed.

But it rubbed EVERYWHERE. If you want to run the car this low you have to remove the inner fenders. And with the placement of my spring perch I could have gone another inch lower LOL

So I turned them up a bit and got this which I think is perfect, the rear has to go a bit lower...thats some work for me maybe next week, more cutting

And the driveway shots for Billy

I absolutely love the ride now, the last piece missing is the front camber plates to complete the entire suspension set up. I remember reading when I was looking for my springs that 500 lbs would be too harsh and "teeth chattering". I've found it to be completely opposite, the car rides solid, over the shittyness in the road its fantastic, I have not 1 complaint! I have to doubt now those who said you couldn't run 500 lbs front 400 lbs back on the street, you can, and I will!

That brings the list of installed pieces to this.

500 lbs ground control (eibach) front springs
400 lbs eibach 5.5 round springs installed on an adjustable perch in the rear
4 way adjustable SW20 MR2 AGX Struts installed in the front
8 way adjustable First Gen Ford Focus Shocks installed in the rear
Addco Front and Rear Sway bars
Superpro and Energy suspension bushings installed everywhere
LJM Front strut bar
TSC Rear strut brace
T3 Roll center adjusters
Daves2jzgtes weld in rear camber modification kit
Love - awwww

 

[xzeror]

gogogogo updatess

 

[mk2-1jz]

 

[87mk111]

nice project. lovin the stance of hte car as well. :love:

 

[mk2-1jz]

haha thanks, been trying things out

 

[87supradude]

I love MKIIs man, Keep it up!