Misfiring/No power in low RPM's

[d_block.5]

Ever since I changed my crank pulley, my car has been misfiring like mad, and lost a whole bunch of power (not expendable with a 3800lb car lol). It put-put's up to 3800RPMs then catches the power band and starts moving.

Trying to come up with a few reasons that it may be misfiring:

My first theory> My timing is off.. I don't know how this could have changed since i didn't touch the timing belt or tensioner when I changed the pulley.

Second theory> My plug wires are out of order. When I reinstalled them, I didn't label them (stupid), so I went from smallest to first cylinder and largest to sixth cylinder. I think this may be the problem but I'm not sure which is the right order and I cant find the correct lengths per cylinder on the forum.

Third theory> My plug wires are crappy and split. I sent my dad to get me new wires and I installed them about a month before putting the pulley on and my car was running fine then. However, he did get the cheaper wires, an d this was a problem before, only the cylinders weren't misfiring, it was just draining my battery when my car wasn't on due to arcing. (I checked for arcing a couple nights ago and didn't see any)

I'm wondering if any of these theory's are valid, and if there is anything else that I should look into when I dismantle my ignition system to test a few things tommarow afternoon.

I'm also trying to find the correct wire lengths per cylinder if anyone can help me with that. Thanks, Your Relative Maniac Friend.

 

[Kckazdude]

All decent theories that could cause the problems you describe. The wires go in a general shortest to longest length. Locate #1 on the cap. Then verify they are all going in firing order. 1 5 3 6 2 4.

I am still trying to figure out how bad spark plug wires can discharge a battery though.

 

[d_block.5]

well it was the main wire coming from the coil pack which was very old, it was arcing whenever i left my headlights on but shut my door (which shuts them off)..

i believe it was arcing right to the intake manifold, which i think is the closest conductive material to it. you were able to hear it clicking and it took about 6 hours for the battery to die completely when i was in class

 

[Kckazdude]

You had (probably still have) another problem going on. Sounds like you still have power feeding to you ignition coil somehow. You dont notice it anymore because you have a good coil wire that doesnt allow the spark to jump and build up again. This could also be a source of your current problem. Need to make sure your coil is no longer powered up after you switch the ignition off.

 

[cuel]

Wow, that's strange. I don't think the coil should have any power to it with the ignition off.
The wire lengths are shortest to longest, but you need to have the order on the cap correct. Cheap wires are a problem. Do yourself a favor, and get some good ones. MSD wires work really well. I put them on everything I own. Have excellent shielding, and it will take a lot of heat to make them break down. From what I've read here and on sf, people have had good luck with NGK as well, but I have no experience with them.

 

[f00g00]

My cap from the dealer has the numbers labeled on it.

 

[d_block.5]

found that a portion of my main cable running to the positive terminal of my battery was exposed, fixed that, added new wires, blam it moves now!

 

[Kckazdude]

New spark plug wires? Or new wiring to the battery?

 

[d_block.5]

new spark plug wires, i e-taped the wire to the battery for now, not sure if thats enough insulation though