Main clearences & Oil pump shimming

[I6Boost]

So im in the middle of rebuilding my whole bottem
end with the full clevite bottem bearing set.

After plastigauging my mains i noticed its very big... like over
maximum? I only used the red kinda cause its all i had at the moment
Mains are like 0.028-0.048mm or something, and mine were easily 0.070?!

There was only 1-2 that were within spec, Well not like "within" spec
but it was like 0.051...

&& i plastigauged it dry, not lubed up.

I torqued them down to 85ftlbs instead of 75, since i am reusing the old OEM
main bolts...

Can anyone please tell me how to make the clearences tighter?
I cant remember the maximum clearence allowed but i know its def
not 0.070mm, && if i got new main studs(ARP) would that help at all or no?

Also how do i shim my oil pump? ive tried searching on here but cannot find anything,
it always comes up terms are too familure and what not...

I know you shim it between 5-8mm, but idk where to do that lol?

Any help is definetly appreciated guys.

Thanks

 

[hvyman]

I would get the green plastigauge.

There is a bolt on the side of the pump with a hole through it with check valve and spring.
Shim the spring no more than 5mm of washers.
Also have to shim the stock oil cooler relief spring with the same amount of washers.

If your using a new oil pump it would be wise to get a new spring for the oil cooler if your still on stock oil cooler.

 

[I6Boost]

I would get the green plastigauge.

There is a bolt on the side of the pump with a hole through it with check valve and spring.
Shim the spring no more than 5mm of washers.
Also have to shim the stock oil cooler relief spring with the same amount of washers.

If your using a new oil pump it would be wise to get a new spring for the oil cooler if your still on stock oil cooler.

The red plastiguage goes up to bigger clearances and it shows that my clearance is not below 0.051mm even so
whether i get a green plastiguage or not it wont matter...

&& Alright thanks and ton about how to shim, thats exactly what i was looking for!

Anyone else on the clearence aspect of this?

I also heard somewhere that if i do get arp main studs i have to have the machine shop
do something to my crank? i forget exactly... Can someone throw in some info on this?

Any info is super appreciated guys =]

 

[CyFi6]

Thats almost .003" clearance. Way too large for a standard rebuild. Part of your problem is using a STD size bearing in a stock block where you are supposed to use Toyota select fit bearings. I had mic'd a set of STD NDC bearings a while back, and they had a thinner center wall thickness than the thinnest stock Toyota bearing, so that is not helping your situation. What you need to do is mic your crank and main bores and see what is out of specs if anything even is, then go from there. DO NOT over torque your main bolts, there is no sense in this, stock bolts are perfectly re-usable at the factory torque specs. You should do some reading on engine building, there's a lot of info on the internet worth looking into before you try to tackle an already very picky and tight motor yourself.

 

[I6Boost]

Thats almost .003" clearance. Way too large for a standard rebuild. Part of your problem is using a STD size bearing in a stock block where you are supposed to use Toyota select fit bearings. I had mic'd a set of STD NDC bearings a while back, and they had a thinner center wall thickness than the thinnest stock Toyota bearing, so that is not helping your situation. What you need to do is mic your crank and main bores and see what is out of specs if anything even is, then go from there. DO NOT over torque your main bolts, there is no sense in this, stock bolts are perfectly re-usable at the factory torque specs. You should do some reading on engine building, there's a lot of info on the internet worth looking into before you try to tackle an already very picky and tight motor yourself.

I'm not sure what MIC(Micrometer lol?) my crank means?
So your saying my first mistake was buying the STD clevite bearing set?!
Does everyone that buys these sets have this problem?

&& Lets say my crank and main bores are out of spec, then what options do i have?

Im also following Adjusters little Re-assembly tip guide, which has helped out alot.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Yes- get the OEM bearings in the proper sizes, so you can close those tolerances. The mains and rods are actually stamped with numbers, corresponding to the proper OEM bearing thicknesses.

 

[I6Boost]

Yes- get the OEM bearings in the proper sizes, so you can close those tolerances. The mains and rods are actually stamped with numbers, corresponding to the proper OEM bearing thicknesses.

Great...

So just call toyota and tell them i need oem bearings and this will fix all the clearences for sure?
How can you justify that its the bearings and not my crank?

 

[hvyman]

No there are 5 different select fit bearing from toyota. You would either have to look at the back of your old bearings or look at the numbers on the block and crank to figure out which ones you need.

Or you could take the crank, block, and bearings down to a machine shop and have them line bore the mains.

 

[I6Boost]

No there are 5 different select fit bearing from toyota. You would either have to look at the back of your old bearings or look at the numbers on the block and crank to figure out which ones you need.

Or you could take the crank, block, and bearings down to a machine shop and have them line bore the mains.

Oh ok well thanks a ton man, i appreciate your and everyone elses response....

 

[grimreaper]

Why did you buy bearings before everything was measured?