I can't figure it out. I have changed all the vac lines and intercooler piping and bov, thinking it could have been a leak. It wont idle normal yet sometimes it idles just fine I am lost.
lumpy idle
- Thread starter kakanator
- Start date
no codes and iac is good. Ive been messing with the little tb stopper that has the 9 mm screw. Mine was turn all the way down not sure if it is spos to be like that or what. I thought it was from the factory open a bit but I don't remember.
What codes does it throw right before it dies (per video)?
Like, hvyman said, you need to "cal" stuff in the correct order.
Idle adjustment screw on the TB (All the way in then back out half turn)
Throttle stop (you will need to adjust it so the throttle plate has the correct gaps, per TSRM)
Dash pot (per TSRM)
then TPS
It is much easier to do all of these with the TB off the engine
Like, hvyman said, you need to "cal" stuff in the correct order.
Idle adjustment screw on the TB (All the way in then back out half turn)
Throttle stop (you will need to adjust it so the throttle plate has the correct gaps, per TSRM)
Dash pot (per TSRM)
then TPS
It is much easier to do all of these with the TB off the engine
ok cool I will check the tsrm procedure for that. The check light was because the car died. Today thought I got a code 31 and a 51. Car drives well without the light coming on but when the idle gets low the light pops on. tps was 31 and afm is 51 according to tsrm.
So I put on a different tb that has not be messed with on the dash post or stopper screw. The car reves fine just wont hold a idle it will just die out no codes that come up. I think I may need a afm not sure if mine is bad or what I need to hit up the junk yard and get one.
kakanator;2018981 said:
That is backwards, but you probably just typed it that way. 51 will go away when the throttle is set as already described in the thread. 31 should be checked with your multimeter set to Hz and reading the signal when running bad and running good. Then make sure the PCM is getting that signal if you don't see a discrepancy at the meter itself.
I went to the junk yard today and picked up a 1uz afm going to take the sensor and put it on my afm and she how it goes.
Ok so I went out to install that sensor I picked up today off a 1uz. Found that the afm that was on there someone messed with the plugged screw that is not meant to be adjusted it was backed all that way out. Also the clip that goes into the afm sensor, the water seal inside it was all crusty and would not let the clip lock in place. So I had a different stock afm with no sensor but the screen was fucked on. I had 3 afms and i mcgivered 1 out of 3. Given I reset the battery so I still need to do a bit of driving before I can say all is good. But so far with just going around the block no stalling no lumpy shit and drives smooth.
So I am not sure what open circuit to tps signal VTA means. The egr sensor I think you can just jump a wire on the harness side clip to fix it.
yes sir Got the tps working good and I think the ac might have been pressed by accident. Went to the store today and drives smooth with no check light.
41 has nothing to do with A/C switch. Open circuit means just that. The circuit is not complete.