lowering ?s

flubyux2

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Apr 2, 2005
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yeah, i need to pick out a set of springs and struts for my car but i dont know what to go with because i really dont want the car on its nuts but my car has a different weight distribution.

look at the gap in the front versus the rear.
l_1b283c4a60b9eec12f504fdfecabb4a9.jpg


i like how the rear sits. i wouldnt want it to come down much more than 0.5" if anything. the front however, is WAAaaaayy to high. i probably pulled maybe 200 lbs out of the front, total. i mean, that front tire is a 255/35/18 but its not significantly shorter than the rear tire, maybe an inch at the most. but it shouldnt be enough to make the car look like its Bull-doggin' like a lifted CK-chevy or Superduty ford truck.

im half tempted to just buy FRONT springs and lower the front and leave the rear as it is.

what do you guys think?
 

AGlobalThreat

Acceleration
Apr 4, 2005
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H&R is nice if you like the front being lower than the rear. I think the best combo if you want a low setup without going to a coilover is H&R springs in front and intraxx in the rear. This is the setup I debated when I was first shopping for suspension. Intraxx is known for having a low rear, H&R's are known for having a low front. Combine the 2 and the outcome should be nice.
 

flubyux2

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Apr 2, 2005
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if by "low rear" you mean, tucking tire... i dont want that. i cant stand tucking tire on anything except a sport sedan with big shiney wheels and lots o dish... like a GS300 pounded on some 20" CCW's. thats ok to tuck, but not a stock body MK3 w/ 18's, imo.

what about some Tein springs in the front and something really mild in the rear, like maybe a BG sport? i know Tein drop-ins sag like a bitch so maybe a decent drop Tein like a 1.0" would end up being a 1.5" after sagging?

i would say that id like to put my fender on my tire, but that would lead to rubbing unless i did some semi-agressive rolling... almost pulling.
 

AGlobalThreat

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Apr 4, 2005
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I don't mean low rear by tucking the tire. Is that even possible without going to a coilover?

Most spring/shock combos I see when people have a low rear the wheel fits
perfectly in the fender with little to no gap. I can't imagine something mild in the rear with stock weight, because there will still most likely be a small gap.

H&R's iirc lower the rear 2nd most only to Intraxx, and nothing lowers the front more, except for of course, coilovers.
 

suprabad

Coitus Non Circum
Jul 12, 2005
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Here's what I found:

Intrax springs are way higher than what most people want. I had some, I know.

They are not going to settle in very much.

Ok, here's the part that I'm going to be flamed for, I don't care what anybody tells you this is the truth, cause I've done it, and ran it this way for almost a year.
Here's what you do...take the springs off the front and cut (thats right cut) about 1/2 to 3/4 th's of a coil off. MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE TOP AND NOT THE BOTTOM OF THE COIL! The reason for that is the coil spring is wound smaller at the bottom because the pearch it sits on is smaller than the top. So just DO NOT make your cut on the bottom!

There will be no noticable difference in ride quality and you'll get the drop you want.

Start with 1/2 a coil and see what you think after loading up the suspension up so you'll know how much of a drop you've got. If that's not enough cut another 1/4 off. Make sure you cut exactly the same off both sides.
 

fiyota

I ♥ Boost
May 3, 2006
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I cut my front springs to lower it down some, but still need to do the back... I know people are going to flame it, but you know what? I don't really care!

Reasons why I'm glad I did it:
1) It's temporary untill I get coilovers
2) Provided a very nice drop
3) Stiffened up the front
4) No bounce... like so many people warned it will make the ride overly bouncy.. it didn't, firmed it right up..

I don't have one negative thing to say about cutting my springs, I am 100% satisfied with my results. Altho, I wasn't expecting much out of it, I had a set of stock suspension sitting on hand just incase I messed up and didn't like it afterwards.

Now, do not cut the springs with a plasma torch or cut it in a way that will heat them up. This will change your spring rate. I used a liquid cooled cutting disc and did it slowly to avoid heating up the suspension.
 

boostindoo

New Member
Jul 18, 2006
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hmm....maybe cutting aftermarket springs arent as bad as stock ones. i would never cut stock springs.
hey suprabad, if i cut @ 1coil, how much do u think it will be lowered?

aaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!!!!!1
 

boostindoo

New Member
Jul 18, 2006
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nah, if i got them off, minus well do them right. leaning towards eibachs. im pretty lazy and would be ticked off if i didnt cut them enough or too much and had to redo it. oh btw, i got kyb gr2s all the way around. could u mix the front and back kybs?
 

suprabad

Coitus Non Circum
Jul 12, 2005
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boostindoo said:
hey suprabad, if i cut @ 1coil, how much do u think it will be lowered?

It will vary a little depending on the spring (which is why I said to start off with 1/2 coil cut. But the general rule of thumb is:
1.5 to 1, in other words, if you cut off 1" of spring it will lower the car by approximately 1.5". I have found this to be pretty accurate but again, it will vary a little depending on the stiffness of the spring to be cut and the load sitting on the spring.

The best way to approach this is to decide how much drop you want, measure the spring (off the shock and unladen) and then cut the spring based on the height ratio I gave you, and not the coil count.

Another thing you must keep in mind is that you must grind the end of the coil flat (so it sits flat in it's pearch) so figure that in to your total cut.

Also, do not use a torch to cut the spring, the heat will change the spring rate. The best way I have found is to use a metal bucket filled with cold water and slip the spring in so that the part you want to cut off is outside the bucket and hooked over the edge and cut the spring with an angle grinder .

The bucket will do two things, hold the spring while you cut it, and keep the rest of the spring cool, so you don't heat it up and f up the spring rate.

It's really a pretty simple job, just don't go overboard and you'll be fine.
 

flubyux2

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Apr 2, 2005
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ah, i just found the table i made last year of all the stock replacment springs as well as the stockers. i couldnt remember if the stockers were progressive or linear rate. according to the info i found on the stock springs (i dont konw where), they are indeed linear. so you can cut them and not alter the spring rate due to chopping off the "wrong" portion like if you removed the softer side of a Progressive spring.

and yes, the stock MK3 springs are called "pig tail" style since all the coils are the same diameter EXCEPT for the last one which is a reducing radius to seat on the lower perch. obviously you dont wanna cut this one off.

EDIT: nevermind, ill just put it here.

mk3_lowering_springs.JPG


i got most of this info from Jeff Gore.
 
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Larry_A

You don't matter
Apr 7, 2005
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boostindoo said:
hmm....maybe cutting aftermarket springs arent as bad as stock ones. i would never cut stock springs.
hey suprabad, if i cut @ 1coil, how much do u think it will be lowered?

aaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!!!!!1
You have it completely backwards. Most aftermarket springs are progressive, while OEM is linear Fr & Rr.

I cut springs on my 1st Celica 30 yrs ago & the stance, ride, & handling were excellent. Friends of mine spent $$$ on the TRD springs of the day & they kicked themselves after experiencing my car. The only drawback is that it is a trial/error process to "get it just right." It took me two [2] tries to get it "right." And of course, using a cutting torch is a no-no.

As always YMMV.
 

suprabad

Coitus Non Circum
Jul 12, 2005
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flubyux2 said:
...they are indeed linear. so you can cut them and not alter the spring rate...

Almost right! :icon_bigg

When you cut a coil off of a spring you increase the springs rate.

Let's take a linear wound spring for example.

I you have a 400lb linear wound spring with 8 active coils (active coils are all but the top and bottom coils that are wound and ground flat, in most cases) and you cut off one coil you have increased the rate of that spring by 50lb and now have a spring with a 450lb rate.

To reach this number, divide the spring rate by the number of active coils, then add that number on to the original rate for every coil you cut off.

Progressive rates require some algebra, but again, if you have all the variables then it's simple simon.


:icon_bigg
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
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Dec 30, 2005
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Great info flubyux2.
In your opinion what would be the best spring match for Illuminas (TEMS), and/or Koni Yellows?
 

flubyux2

Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
Apr 2, 2005
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illuminas would be easier to use. yellows would have a greater range of adjustability and fine-tuning.

if you want to keep the ease of use, get the Illuminas. if youre gonna Auto-X, get the yellows.

thanks for that breakdown about the spring rates too. i see what you mean
 

skim1040

work in progress
Just an update for anyone searching around

It has been many months since my install of the Intrax springs, and if you've read the thread I was complaining earlier about the front sitting higher. Figured I would wait a while for "settling" and after all this time the front still sits higher.