So When I punch my car it sounds normal...turbo spooling... then at about 4000rpm it hisses from there on and it has no power, if I try to keep tacking out it hits violent fuel cut. I Think it might be a boost leak but I don't know it was not doing this yesterday. I don't really know how to check for Boost leaks either, I got some carb cleaner. Some pointers would be greatly appreciated. I don't know what the fuck else it could be.
LOUD Hissing when boosting under load. Shit!
- Thread starter 87Superdupra
- Start date
Please, this is fuckin pissing me off. It just started today. Any advice would help. Which hoses do I spray to test for boost leaks.
At the risk of being flamed for posting a bad answer, I'd say it is definately a boost leak. Have you checked all of your hoses? Check the one from the turbo to your intercooler. I blew that hose off of mine three times before I bought some good couplings and clamps from BigAaron. I also had a hole in my small hose goig to the wastegate actuator. Hopefully you will find it soon, or someone with more experience will chime in. Either way, the main thing is not to get excited.................lol
87Superdupra said:
Hmmmm, five replies since this post & no response. That's not nice....
If you would have taken the time to CHECK YOUR CODES, you could have immediately been able to tell if there is a boost leak if you would have had code #34 show up, but we didn't take that route, did we....
That's what i was thinking, after 4k rpm boost could be higher then below. If the BOV's spring is not up to the job it'll open. Maybe just a little but enough to get a hissing sound
definitely a boost leak. Check your silicone coupler that connects the turbo to the intercooler pipe. If its the stock coupler, they tend to wear out alot and get hard and crack.
charlie
charlie
Okay first rakkasan, I'm sorry man. I aint rich. I have limited internet time on my friends computers. Not having interent, sometimes I get kicked off my friends CPU and have to leave a thread as it lies.
Anyways so I found that the sil coup. thats attached to my manifold was loose. pushed it back on, tightened it and went for a drive. Then...The pipe that my BOV is on keeps coming off the short IC pipe (where the 3000 pipe would be if stock) at high RPMs @ Stock Boost. It happens when I punch it and it Boost higher. I had it happen twice and than I tightened everything...again, as much as I could. It hasn't happened when I've boosted again since but I was wondering if there is some problem that is linked to IC pipes coming off consistently.
Anyways so I found that the sil coup. thats attached to my manifold was loose. pushed it back on, tightened it and went for a drive. Then...The pipe that my BOV is on keeps coming off the short IC pipe (where the 3000 pipe would be if stock) at high RPMs @ Stock Boost. It happens when I punch it and it Boost higher. I had it happen twice and than I tightened everything...again, as much as I could. It hasn't happened when I've boosted again since but I was wondering if there is some problem that is linked to IC pipes coming off consistently.
87Superdupra said:
The problem is that once there is a little oil inside the piping the stock clamps can not get tight enough to keep the hose from popping off. T-bolt clamps will fix that issue. The lower ic is also known to crack, and it's hard to see without removing the accordion pipe.
I never use worm-drive clamps for intercooler piping anymore. The t-bolt clamps are around $4-$4.50 from your local Napa auto parts, or about $3.25-$3.75 from me.
So first, Why would there be Oil inside my IC piping? If that is normal to happen to IC Couplers and Clamps than i will be Buying T Bolt clamps for my Next set of IC pipes. I'm just decided on getting 2.5 or 2.25. People say 2.25" is what is supposed to be on a stock CT-26 but there is lots of mods on engine plus I am considering Upgrading my turbo...Basically can I just Buy 2.5" IC piping now for my stock turbo and not have too much Lag?
87Superdupra said:
The pcv system is what gets oil in there. A light coat inside the pipes is common. Yes, you can run 2.5" piping and it will be fine. You will just need some reducers to go to the turbo, intercooler and 3000 pipe.
87Superdupra said:
No sweat. Your car can tell you whats wrong half the time, which is a lot better than we can do, so take the time to ask it. It's much quicker too.
As Aaron stated, get rid of your stock clamps and or worm drives & step up to T-bolts. For good measure, replace as many of your couplers along the intercooler piping as your wallet will allow. If the budget is tight, at least try to replace the couplers at the 3000 pipe to TB & the one coming off of the pressure side of the turbo as these are the most common to fail. That *should* heal your ailments.
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just for shits and giggles if the hissing didn't stop, check yur turbo make sure its bolted all the way on. i know mine the nuts backed themselves out and then it came partially unbolted but my boost pressure was dying as well so might not be it.
you wont have much lag at all stepping up to 2.5" IC pipes.
your answer should already be answered from the above answers. Let us know how it comes out.
charlie
your answer should already be answered from the above answers. Let us know how it comes out.
charlie
I just got my intercooler in the mail and I need to buy piping now. Anybody put on their IC and Pipe themselves? It's the spearco Replica shouldn't be too hard
I have a 2.5" universal set, and all the other fittings needed to make it work on the mk3, comes out to about $250 in total. Thats everything to go from the 3000 pipe to the turbo. You can also replace the 3k pipe with one extra 2.5" to 2.75" reducer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/driftmotion/icpipingkit.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/BigAaron/driftmotion/icpipingkit.jpg