I'm just over $4500 invested so far. I still have to get a Clutch and Flywheel. It's definitely not cheap.
looking for input.
- Thread starter Troyota
- Start date
hey guys. I dunno where to begin really. I guess I'll start with the fact that my 7m has popped a head gasket and puked coolant everywhere, barf-central, I swapped it, but the head is warped, it wasn't enough at all. I'm looking very very seriosly at either throwing a bottle of block sealer at the thing and hoping it drives long enough for me to get an alternate powerplant figured out, or to pick up a crappy winter beater and work this thing out over the winter.
also. I'm a student, not starving, I live on oatmeal and potatoes to save money to throw at my hobbies, but ya, I'm not just gonna go throw around money if there's a cheaper way to do it. The simple solution here I guess would be that I have time and knowledge in abundance, but money is tight.
now, I COULD just drop in a used JDM 7m-ge, but what is the point really? this is the second motor I've puked outa this car, one with rod knock, now one with a head gasket. I'm f*cking sick of it. I mean the power curve is nice, I like the driveability of it and stuff, and I realize I'm harder on it than the average guy, but this is f*cking rediculous.
sooooooooooo, I know where there's a 1jz locally for around 500-600, which is really only $100 more than I'd be paying for a 7m. (yes, my car was NA, no laughing, it's rude to laugh at peoples disabilities)
I have the 86.5 with the sport package, limited slip rear-end yadda yadda, I have never gotten a clear answer on what tranny I have, and I haven't seen enough of them out to be able to tell the difference just by looking, am I w58 or R154? I have a buddy living in hongkong at the moment that can source a bellhousing for me if need be. the mk4. supra's had W58's as the optional 5 speed yes? so that bellhousing will work on a 1jz as they're the same bolt pattern ya?
if it's an R154, the answer is obvios, 1jz supra or a soarer, grab bellhousing and go.
next issue. ignition/wiring. I am not buying a full clip, it's to much money and to little tuneability, I've been wanting to play with a megasquirt for a long time, so I guess it's time I jump off a cliff and see if I can fly.
body harness I am planning on leaving intact, I'll likely just remove the engine management harness.
The other option is that there's a VVT-i 2jz sitting near here that I can likely get my hands on for around the same money, noone seems to want the none-turbo 2j's, I personally think that the vvt-i is damned sexy and would love to play with one. but that'll be a whole host of questions on it's own.
I'm not sure if I"ve posted here before or not, been lurking a long time tho, this place is so good that I've not yet had to post and ask a question, have fuond everything I needed with searching.
I only found out about the bad bad damage with my 7m yesterday, so I'm still just weighing my options.
another big concern I have is gearing. atm, I'm sitting around 3000rpm in 5th at highway cruising speed, that strikes me as abit low for a 1jz, given the dyno curves I've seen, if I someone has a stock dyno curve for a 1jz-gtte tho, with a fuel curve aswell, I would be SUPER appreciative. the 2jz-ge would be a better fit as far as gearing goes I think. your thoughts?
so ya, anything you guys can think of that I'm missing, please, by all means, I'm all ears. UNLESS that advice is "spend 3 grand, buy a clip, yadda yadda" I like to play with shit, I'm pretty good at it, and I don't want or need a plug and play solution.
also. I'm a student, not starving, I live on oatmeal and potatoes to save money to throw at my hobbies, but ya, I'm not just gonna go throw around money if there's a cheaper way to do it. The simple solution here I guess would be that I have time and knowledge in abundance, but money is tight.
now, I COULD just drop in a used JDM 7m-ge, but what is the point really? this is the second motor I've puked outa this car, one with rod knock, now one with a head gasket. I'm f*cking sick of it. I mean the power curve is nice, I like the driveability of it and stuff, and I realize I'm harder on it than the average guy, but this is f*cking rediculous.
sooooooooooo, I know where there's a 1jz locally for around 500-600, which is really only $100 more than I'd be paying for a 7m. (yes, my car was NA, no laughing, it's rude to laugh at peoples disabilities)
I have the 86.5 with the sport package, limited slip rear-end yadda yadda, I have never gotten a clear answer on what tranny I have, and I haven't seen enough of them out to be able to tell the difference just by looking, am I w58 or R154? I have a buddy living in hongkong at the moment that can source a bellhousing for me if need be. the mk4. supra's had W58's as the optional 5 speed yes? so that bellhousing will work on a 1jz as they're the same bolt pattern ya?
if it's an R154, the answer is obvios, 1jz supra or a soarer, grab bellhousing and go.
next issue. ignition/wiring. I am not buying a full clip, it's to much money and to little tuneability, I've been wanting to play with a megasquirt for a long time, so I guess it's time I jump off a cliff and see if I can fly.
body harness I am planning on leaving intact, I'll likely just remove the engine management harness.
The other option is that there's a VVT-i 2jz sitting near here that I can likely get my hands on for around the same money, noone seems to want the none-turbo 2j's, I personally think that the vvt-i is damned sexy and would love to play with one. but that'll be a whole host of questions on it's own.
I'm not sure if I"ve posted here before or not, been lurking a long time tho, this place is so good that I've not yet had to post and ask a question, have fuond everything I needed with searching.
I only found out about the bad bad damage with my 7m yesterday, so I'm still just weighing my options.
another big concern I have is gearing. atm, I'm sitting around 3000rpm in 5th at highway cruising speed, that strikes me as abit low for a 1jz, given the dyno curves I've seen, if I someone has a stock dyno curve for a 1jz-gtte tho, with a fuel curve aswell, I would be SUPER appreciative. the 2jz-ge would be a better fit as far as gearing goes I think. your thoughts?
so ya, anything you guys can think of that I'm missing, please, by all means, I'm all ears. UNLESS that advice is "spend 3 grand, buy a clip, yadda yadda" I like to play with shit, I'm pretty good at it, and I don't want or need a plug and play solution.
A $3500 clip IS the cheap solution. Read through the 1J section & you will see why that is so...Junior said:
You picked a real bad car to try and do an engine swap for cheap...
Why do you talk about talk about front clips having "little tuneability" (which doesn't make sense to me) and yet say that you would want a 2JZ-GE ad to top it off, you want a VVT-i verison - From what I've heard, 2JZ-GE + VVT-i not the best base for a powerful car.
If a 1J swap was as simple as buying a $600 engine and a few bits and peices we'd all being doing it, you pretty much have to have ethier a clip or a parts car that you rape for parts.I remember in a recent thread, it was about $5000 to do a swap all in all ready and running. If your not willing to put that kinda of money into the car then you have to look at another Solution.
I'd personally rebuild the hell out of a 7M to make it next to bomb proof.
Why do you talk about talk about front clips having "little tuneability" (which doesn't make sense to me) and yet say that you would want a 2JZ-GE ad to top it off, you want a VVT-i verison - From what I've heard, 2JZ-GE + VVT-i not the best base for a powerful car.
If a 1J swap was as simple as buying a $600 engine and a few bits and peices we'd all being doing it, you pretty much have to have ethier a clip or a parts car that you rape for parts.I remember in a recent thread, it was about $5000 to do a swap all in all ready and running. If your not willing to put that kinda of money into the car then you have to look at another Solution.
I'd personally rebuild the hell out of a 7M to make it next to bomb proof.
there's examples on this board aswell as locally of doing a 1jz swap without a clip or a parts car.
as far as tuneability, it's pretty clear that it's alot easier to play with fuel maps on a stand alone controller than it is to try to hack the stock system, if that's even possible, I"m not sure it is.
as far as tuneability, it's pretty clear that it's alot easier to play with fuel maps on a stand alone controller than it is to try to hack the stock system, if that's even possible, I"m not sure it is.
lol 5000 wtf
he got ripped or paid for labor or something
buy a donner car for 2-500 then buy complete engine for 1200-1500 or buy clip for 1500-2000 i have heard in another fourm where some one did a complete swap and bought complete car for under 2000$ you cant even buy touch a 2jz for that and then you have to buy jza70 parts anyways to mount the manuel just the bell housings alone run around 3-400.
he got ripped or paid for labor or something
buy a donner car for 2-500 then buy complete engine for 1200-1500 or buy clip for 1500-2000 i have heard in another fourm where some one did a complete swap and bought complete car for under 2000$ you cant even buy touch a 2jz for that and then you have to buy jza70 parts anyways to mount the manuel just the bell housings alone run around 3-400.
from what i've read, it will run you any where between 3 - 5K. Depending on upgrades. So base it around 4500 with some upgrades not just a stock swap.
Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE said:
ya I think anyone that paid 5000 got f00ked.
you're right tho, the bellhousing alone is bucks, I just am unsure as to what all else I would need from a clip, if I'm going stand-alone, there's no reason I can't just leave the body wiring harness in there, the motor doesn't need the cars electronics to run... it'll run bolted to a stand on my front lawn if I want it to. so electrical wise, I shouldn't need anything from the donor. motor mounts, tranny bellhousing tho, those are definatly necessary.
A completely stock set up with a used clutch, hoses, bents, et al, yes.Junior said:
If there are any upgrades, then $5k isn't too much. $500 for a clutch, $1000 for fuel upgrades & management, $300 for a downpipe, $500 for an exhaust, throw in a new timing belt, drive belt, hoses, PS line, fluids, intake, wiring material, BIC engine mounts, ect. It can add up with a quickness.
driftking786
1988 toyota supra
subtract the things u dont need. better to buy front clip u get all the stuff like fuel map ignitor etc.:biglaugh:
I have a 1990 i am doing a swap in now. I bought a Clip and i can say that i paid $3100 CAD for the clip Delivered to my door. With the Clip and all the little tidbits that i have needed i have spent
this is the run down so far
I am trying to do this right with out spending boatloads
Clip $3100 CAD
HKS Boost Gauge $260 CAD
HKS Gauge controller $130 CAD
-Engine gasket set $166.50 USD
-Turbo gasket Set $76.00 USD
- PCV Valve from a 94 Turbo $3.57 USD
- 2JZ Throtle cable - since i heard this is the only way to go $42.25 USD
-Greddy timing belt $115.00 USD
-oil pressure sensor relocater $20.00 USD
-PS line and Banjo bolt $100.00 USD
- Oil Catch Can $40.00
- SS Clutch Line $25.00
these are some other thing i have needed to buy to get the job done with a
bit more ease
- compression tester since i still did not have one. $26 CAD
- Engine Stand $79 CAD
- Some more Jack Stands - $30 CAD
- Cold/Heat soldering tool - looks cheesy but iv'e been told it works fine. $20 CAD
- some Shrink tubing $24 CAD
- Leveler $42 CAD
The total So far not including the stuff bought for myself
$3500.00 CAD
and
$588.32 USD
thats a total of $3592.32 USD or $4170.68 CAD
i still need to pay for customs a duties on a few items so the cost will be a bit higher in a week or two
I would still say for the problems involved with having just the engine for doing a simple swap your best off with a clip.
If you want to do some heavy mod work right off the bat then a longblock would be the way to go. i.e. stand alone. IC and piping. Ignition system, so forth so on.
heres a link to the build thread if you want to see the things that i have come accross so far and the question that have come up
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29567
I know it is harder with a PRE-89 Car. Just make sure you are up to the challenge or have someone to help you out.
this is the run down so far
I am trying to do this right with out spending boatloads
Clip $3100 CAD
HKS Boost Gauge $260 CAD
HKS Gauge controller $130 CAD
-Engine gasket set $166.50 USD
-Turbo gasket Set $76.00 USD
- PCV Valve from a 94 Turbo $3.57 USD
- 2JZ Throtle cable - since i heard this is the only way to go $42.25 USD
-Greddy timing belt $115.00 USD
-oil pressure sensor relocater $20.00 USD
-PS line and Banjo bolt $100.00 USD
- Oil Catch Can $40.00
- SS Clutch Line $25.00
these are some other thing i have needed to buy to get the job done with a
bit more ease
- compression tester since i still did not have one. $26 CAD
- Engine Stand $79 CAD
- Some more Jack Stands - $30 CAD
- Cold/Heat soldering tool - looks cheesy but iv'e been told it works fine. $20 CAD
- some Shrink tubing $24 CAD
- Leveler $42 CAD
The total So far not including the stuff bought for myself
$3500.00 CAD
and
$588.32 USD
thats a total of $3592.32 USD or $4170.68 CAD
i still need to pay for customs a duties on a few items so the cost will be a bit higher in a week or two
I would still say for the problems involved with having just the engine for doing a simple swap your best off with a clip.
If you want to do some heavy mod work right off the bat then a longblock would be the way to go. i.e. stand alone. IC and piping. Ignition system, so forth so on.
heres a link to the build thread if you want to see the things that i have come accross so far and the question that have come up
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29567
I know it is harder with a PRE-89 Car. Just make sure you are up to the challenge or have someone to help you out.
IDK bro, you could buy a rebuilt 7M, I heard Jarco has them for a decent rpice with internals rebuilt and machined and optional MHG and arp bolts. That'd be a good route if you wanted to drive it quick andn ot spend much, but you'd need to install it, I got a JDM 7M and am now facing costs of either building it or swapping, niether of which is cheap, easy or fast.
GOOD LUCK
GOOD LUCK
I just fuond a used 7m-gte for $300, I'll drop that in this weekend, but I gotta get rolling on having stuff ready for the swap, this is the 3rd 7m in this car since I got it 2 years ago.
alright, got a JDM 7m in it, time to start thinking about the 1j swap.
any word on tranny's guys? 6 speed would be nice, but that's huge bucks with comparison to the r154, can a w58 handle any kind of power at all? or is it really just a paperweight?
any word on tranny's guys? 6 speed would be nice, but that's huge bucks with comparison to the r154, can a w58 handle any kind of power at all? or is it really just a paperweight?
bobiseverywhere said:
ya, this is essentially the plan. might even go 1.5jz right off the top, we'll see how it goes I guess, but a stand alone is a given, and I'm not planning on running stock twins at all.
does anybody have a complete TSRM style wiring diagram for the 1jz?
Ha Ha Ha....I knew I had sent a reply in this thread...but couldn't find it. Then I looked at the very first post!!! I'm so damn good...I answered the question before it was asked!!! :biglaugh:
BTW I know that this happened when the forum's clocks were messed up, just kinda funny.
BTW I know that this happened when the forum's clocks were messed up, just kinda funny.
bobiseverywhere: ya I just DL'd the japanese one, I'll have a good look at it tommorow, see if I can't make heads and tails from it. btw man, thanks for your input, that thread of yours has been pretty illuminating.
Troyota: that's freaking cool!
Troyota: that's freaking cool!
ya ricks place 1jzgte.com or something he haves diagrams for the 1jz
just use the r154 or even adapted richmond or tremec or other borg warner like t-56 the v160 haves verryl low gears which mate to a verry tall mkiv rearend so no it wont work for mkiii unless your rich and verry creative.
just use the r154 or even adapted richmond or tremec or other borg warner like t-56 the v160 haves verryl low gears which mate to a verry tall mkiv rearend so no it wont work for mkiii unless your rich and verry creative.