Just wondering about some seals..

[LoveMySupra]

Hey guys,
I'm in the middle of swapping engines on my 88 7mgte and couldn't get the crank bolt busted with the engine out of the car.
I'm already feeling like time is wasting, because I prefer to replace as many seals and gaskets that I can with the engine out.
The engine is said to be freshly rebuilt with all the gaskets and seals replaced. less than 9000 miles on the engine. Sure enough, the one thing I did accomplish yesterday was replacing the rear crank seal and it looked super new.
The thing I want to ask and get opinions on are, would you accept, for your own engine, not busting the crank nut and skip replacing the timing belt, cam seals, and front main seal?
I was fighting the bolt for most the day yesterday but perhaps it's a sign to leave it the eff alone! LoL
Today I'm putting in an oil pan gasket as there's not one and only gasket sealer instead.
Also, where can one obtain the copper/brass fuel/oil line crush washers without buying an oil filter?
Last thing on my mind is, should I worry about torquing the 12mm bolts on the rear seal plate past 18' lbs as that's all i could get with out stripping them?

 

[CyFi6]

If there are no signs of leakage, I wouldn't even waste my time replacing them. The rear main is probably the only one i would do considering the transmission has to come off in order to replace that one.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=93

The torque on those bolts are only 9 ft lbs.

You should be able to get all the gaskets/sealing washers you need from Toyota.

 

[LoveMySupra]

If there are no signs of leakage, I wouldn't even waste my time replacing them. The rear main is probably the only one i would do considering the transmission has to come off in order to replace that one.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspxS=EM&P=93

The torque on those bolts are only 9 ft lbs.

You should be able to get all the gaskets/sealing washers you need from Toyota.

I couldn't find the tsrm even with the search! Thanks! I have a book but no torque specs on that plate so I went off a "general" bolt torque sheet that said that bolt can do 28lbs torque.... Doh... Haha
Thank you Sir.

 

[CyFi6]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=2211&P=2

No problem, that should have all the part numbers for every fuel sealing washer you need. Just make a list and bring it to your dealer to make things easy!

 

[LoveMySupra]

Dude, you are the MAN. :thumbup:

 

[LoveMySupra]

I replaced the oil pan gasket today. There was only a layer of gasket maker and it looked like it was leaking on the front part just a tiny bit already. LOL
Do you prefer oil pan gasket or no oil pan gasket?

 

[hvyman]

Dont use a cork gasket. Its supposed to have toyota fipg. Form in place gasket aka just silicone. Toyota or 3bong/yamabong/hondabond/suzukibond etc.. should be used and is 10x better than the parts store crap. Plus all toyota stock it everywhere.

Have to use a impact or something to hold the crank and use a long 1/2 in breaker bar with a 19mm socket to get the crank bolts off. If it was just rebuild with all new seals i dont see the reason to replace it.

You can how ever replace the cam seals without taking off the crank pulley,

 

[LoveMySupra]

Dont use a cork gasket. Its supposed to have toyota fipg. Form in place gasket aka just silicone. Toyota or 3bong/yamabong/hondabond/suzukibond etc.. should be used and is 10x better than the parts store crap. Plus all toyota stock it everywhere.

Have to use a impact or something to hold the crank and use a long 1/2 in breaker bar with a 19mm socket to get the crank bolts off. If it was just rebuild with all new seals i dont see the reason to replace it.

You can how ever replace the cam seals without taking off the crank pulley,

Does the fipg only come in a tube like the gasket maker? there's no good gasket to use or a pre-formed silicon gasket?
I don't want to put too little or too much. I want an even layer in all the right places.
Thanks for the heads up on the cork gasket and autozone bought rtv silicon gasket maker.

 

[hvyman]

Ya its a little squeeze tube. Just put about a 3-5mm bead all the way around. IF you stop mix the starting and stopping points together. Go on the inside of the bolt holes and then do the outside after you finish everything.

Bolt it up but leave it loose(not like hanging but not so you squeeze all of the gasket out.) for about 15-30min and then tighten to spec. Its not hard but can be messy.

 

[LoveMySupra]

A continuous bead the whole way around is better than smearing an even coat with your finger?

 

[hvyman]

Indeed. It will smash in to place as soon as you push against the block.

And when you push it against the block try not to move it around. There are 2 studs to help with this as well and a extra set of hands comes in handy.

 

[LoveMySupra]

Ya its a little squeeze tube. Just put about a 3-5mm bead all the way around. IF you stop mix the starting and stopping points together. Go on the inside of the bolt holes and then do the outside after you finish everything.

Bolt it up but leave it loose(not like hanging but not so you squeeze all of the gasket out.) for about 15-30min and then tighten to spec. Its not hard but can be messy.

When you say "finish everything" are you referring to applying an "inner" bead and then moving onto an "outer" bead or applying more somewhere after putting the pan on?

Is it better to apply the fipg onto the block or onto the oil pan?

 

[hvyman]

Do the bead towards the middle and around the inside of the holes for the bolt holes. After that run a bead on the out side of the bolt holes.

 

[LoveMySupra]

Thank you.