It should start.... but won't.
- Thread starter WillWorkFoBoost
- Start date
what do you mean plugged in or unplugged. The connector coming from the wiring harness that clips to the injector has 12v on both wires, measured from the female connectors in the plug with it unplugged. plugged in or unplugged, it should never have power running through the ground. ( for clarification positive multimeter in the injector connector, negative to chassis ground)
This in combination with my fp running as if 12v are jumped to it with the key off are mighty suspicious. my fp only quit pumping after I pulled the efi fuse... the fuse to the ecu. also as the injectors ground through the ecu it seems like thats where this hokeyness could be coming from.
This in combination with my fp running as if 12v are jumped to it with the key off are mighty suspicious. my fp only quit pumping after I pulled the efi fuse... the fuse to the ecu. also as the injectors ground through the ecu it seems like thats where this hokeyness could be coming from.
plugged in you will have 12v on both sides, the ecu grounds the circuit. with it unplugged the ecu may very well pulse a 12v signal to ping to the injector to find out what is going on. Check continuity to case ground on each injector.
The connector should have a constant 12v wire and a ground which the ecu pulses to fire the injector. there should never be 12v to the ground of the plug at key on power. At this point I know this is the issue, just a matter of where the short is. furthermore theres the exact same voltage between the power and ground of the unplugged injector clip, as well as the other injector clips. I.e if one has 11.9v they all do.
Yea I just verified this on my other car, theres 12v to both sides... So yes i am wrong but you laid down no facts backing up what you said....so Im sorry I didnt take it to heart. you said it may pulse 12v on the wire when unplugged, you didnt sound too sure. So yes you are right.
Typhoon;1783056 said:
Thats what I was thinking. plugs are wet but no ignition, despite the fact that there is spark and timing is close enough to start.
How were you able to veryify CPS timing if it doesn't run?
Are you saying you timed the ignition to 10 degrees at ~250rpm cranking speed?
That would mean its WAY off of running position @800rpm.
If anything, I would retard the timing from that point and try again.
Are you saying you timed the ignition to 10 degrees at ~250rpm cranking speed?
That would mean its WAY off of running position @800rpm.
If anything, I would retard the timing from that point and try again.
Its inserted into cps in the correct marks and yes it is around 10 deg via timing light with it cranking. i know this will have to be readjusted with t and e1 jumped but seeing as spark is occuring at 10 deg before with it cranking shouldnt it be enough to start? It always has before on my other car.... even tsrm says to just put it on the drilled mark and then adjust to 10 btdc after its running and up to temp. not downing on your input just asking.
I've seen spark that looked adequate out of the combustion chamber but wouldn't start the engine. You need a surprisingly strong spark to start a cold engine, it needs to ignite a very rich mixture (and overcome plugs wet with fuel).
I've also seen old plugs that would arc straight to ground from the centre electrode due to porous porcelain on the plug, again creating a no spark.
I've also seen old plugs that would arc straight to ground from the centre electrode due to porous porcelain on the plug, again creating a no spark.
Aligning the cps is more luck than procedure. Not downing on your execution.
Even if you line up the mark perfectly, you have nearly a 50% chance of it rotating one tooth off of correct.
Even if you line up the mark perfectly, you have nearly a 50% chance of it rotating one tooth off of correct.
So thanks for your help everyone, Im just going to pull this motor and use the head and block In my winter teardown of my other supra, seeing as it has a new oilpump, bearings, rings pistons etc. Was just trying to see if I could get it running in car first, but as snows about to fly here in maine Im just gonna get the motor out and snowbank the shell. thanks for all the input though. hate to give up after you all have put your minds to my issue, but there it is.
Thanks
Thanks
you may want to pull a plug and see if you are not 180 off when your lined at 0 put a long stick in cyl #1 to see if you are reacing top dead center which means it will be at the top of its stroke by the point it reaches the dot on the crank pulley, then once you are at that point line the notches on the cams to the notches on the cam cover place only then you will be completley positive you are on correct timing.
cuz sadly you cant just goby the notches..
cuz sadly you cant just goby the notches..
check to see if you have a faulty crank position sensor, maybe it isnt getting the signal to spark and thus there will be fuel on the plugs unburned
SRZMK3;1784418 said:
how can you not go by the notches when its all keyed to the correct positions? In any event, its not 180 off you can see piston 1 at tdc thru the plug hole.
If it was a faulty cam pos sensor and wasnt getting the signal to spark, it wouldnt be sparking, but it is sparking.