Car has been off the road about 8 years. In the last 6 months I have garaged it and cleaned it up quite thoroughly. I have started the car and brought it to operating temp twice in the past 6 months, the most recent time being 2 months ago. Since, I have simply uninstalled the A340E trans., without removing the motor, and reinstalled a built one I had. THAT'S IT! Pretty simply stuff! Now the damn car won't start. All it has done the past 2 months is sit there! The car will crank its ass off, but will not turnover. I have done some initial troubleshooting. I have fuel coming into the fuel rail. I have disconnected the electronic solenoid harness in case the solenoid wiring was grounding out inside the trans case. Checked all fuses. Just seems like spark is being cut somewhere. I have not jumped into following around any ign voltage yet. Just figured I'd throw this out there and brainstorm some ideas before I go back out to the car.
Interesting "Now it won't start" situation
- Thread starter Bzdaname
- Start date
Check cps connection also. My random no fires were due to the cps wires finally giving up.
Just another culprit to check
Just another culprit to check
Yup, I've had similar issues that turned out to be the CPS.
If wiggling the wires fixes it, take the CPS out and rebuild it. You can get a rebuild kit with all of the hardware (seals, bearing, etc), and you can get a new connector with wire leads.
rebuild kit: http://www.driftmotion.com/BPM-202-67-p/dm2758.htm
new connector: http://www.driftmotion.com/7M-GTE-CPS-Connector-p/dm1047.htm
new aluminum cover: http://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm2880.htm
or new boring stock cover: http://www.driftmotion.com/7M-CPS-Cover-Factory-Toyota-p/dm799.htm
If wiggling the wires fixes it, take the CPS out and rebuild it. You can get a rebuild kit with all of the hardware (seals, bearing, etc), and you can get a new connector with wire leads.
rebuild kit: http://www.driftmotion.com/BPM-202-67-p/dm2758.htm
new connector: http://www.driftmotion.com/7M-GTE-CPS-Connector-p/dm1047.htm
new aluminum cover: http://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm2880.htm
or new boring stock cover: http://www.driftmotion.com/7M-CPS-Cover-Factory-Toyota-p/dm799.htm
UPDATE: CPS connector has power...wire wiggle didn't fix it. So after checking nearly every connector in the main harness for power. I took off the I/C piping and sprayed a little brake cleaner into the throttle body while a buddy cranked...car started right up. Seems fuel is not being pushed through injectors. Under presumption that water was blocking fuel in the injectors/ I disassembled fuel rail / injectors and actually bought 6 new injector filters from RC engineering. Cleaned fuel rail / injectors. Reassembled....same shit! Just cranks its ass off. So my next step is testing fuel pulse with noid light and resistance testing the actual CPS. Any other ideas?
Bzdaname;2080070 said:
It is most likely directly related to your swap. Meaning disconnect and then reconnect. PCMs don't just fail, unlike what people here seem to think. The fuel system, like the pump, could have collected corrosion while sitting and that is why you have no fuel.
Does it run with B+ and Fp jumped in the diag box?
I do have fuel though. When the supply line is disconnected from the fuel rail and the car is cranked...plenty of fuel is expelled through the line...so we know fuel is making it to the fuel rail. I ran just the fuel pump without cranking the motor for a solid 60-90 secs to pump out any fuel that was in the lines on reassembly.
Having fuel come out of the rail under pressure is a good sign too. The PCM grounds the injectors in gang fire order. Power is constant. Something isn't plugged in. The other choice is code 12, which is the CPS. The wiggle test is a great test for wiring, but it can be bad and not start with that test.
IIRC the tacho should move slightly while cranking, if the CPS is working properly.
This guy shows how to test injectors for power and pulse using only a simple test light.
@ 14:55
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUxagOAVS5M
& make sure that EFI fuse didn't pop
This guy shows how to test injectors for power and pulse using only a simple test light.
@ 14:55
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUxagOAVS5M
& make sure that EFI fuse didn't pop
He already knows the injectors are not firing, so all he really needs to check is B+ KEOE. That will isolate power supply or grounding through the PCM.