Ignition and Code 14

[Marotta1]

Question, My 1jz won't start. I'm getting a code 14 and want to check and see if I have spark by pulling a coil, connecting a plug and grounding it like the 2jz TSRM suggests, then cranking. Can I pull the fuel/efi fuse while doing this? I don't want to be dumping fuel into the motor. I know the ecu/computer cuts fuel when there is no IGF signal, but does it stop spark if there is no fuel? I assume no, but don't want my test to be worthless.

Also, can cracked coils alone cause a code 14? I fixed the cracks tonight with clear nail polish and will try again tomorrow.

 

[tlo86]

honestly i havent seen it cause a code 14 and ive had coils that had large chunks missing (then again i couldnt even get the car to start until i found it and fixed them all with jbweld)

you can pull the efi fuse

double check that cam crank tps map etc are all plugged in and fine

 

[Satan]

I get the code and the engine stops, because of a loose wire/connection athe the dash connectors. I think I fixed it this last time, but try wiggling the wires/connection at the dash connections and see if you have a similar issue.

 

[Marotta1]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try those things tomorrow and see where it gets me.

Is there a multimeter diagnostic test for the map sensor?

 

[Marotta1]

So it seems I'm not getting any spark. I pulled off coilpacks 1 and 2, plugged in & grounded a spark plug, and ..... nothing. Coils are within tsrm spec. Black wires to coils are getting 11.75 volts. Is there a way to test the other colored wires going to the coils? They run from the igniter, correct?

So apparently my getting a code 14 was correct since there is no spark. I don't know what else can I check from here. Any suggestions. I've tried 2 ecu's and 2 igniters. Haven't been able to get the cam position sensor plugs off to test them. They seem to be totally stuck on there.

 

[tlo86]

pb blaster? heh

 

[Satan]

I'm telling you, try jiggling the wires at the dash/ECU connections as you try to start. Move 'em from side-to-side, separate them a bit. Just F with the connections a little.

You may be surprised. It only takes that one signal, to keep spark from getting to the coils.

 

[Marotta1]

I did try jiggling but not while starting. I'll try anything at this point. If it works great. Can you use PB Blaster on plastic connectors?

 

[Bock]

It sounds like you have covered most of what this link states , just in case :

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_14.htm

it should be the same as the 1J, good luck!

 

[Satan]

In my case, we also got the code 14 and car wouldn't start, but a friend of mine put an oscilliscope (sp?) on some of the ignitor wires and could see the IGF signal sometimes, while I was messing at the dash.

I recently had it come back and think it has to do with a loose connection at the bigger dash plug. I jiggled things around, separated the wires from each other a bit, and "pushed" the wires together thru the connector... Vrooom.

If you know the ignitor's good and that the rest of the wiring is good, the other thing to look at is that the crank angle position sensor is unplugged. But, I think that may produce other codes.

Good luck!

 

[Marotta1]

It sounds like you have covered most of what this link states , just in case :

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_14.htm

it should be the same as the 1J, good luck!

I did check most of what's in that article but I have a few more things to check. I wasn't sure how to check the voltage at the ecu plugs because I don't have a check harness(test connector), but a friend clued me in to a way to do it.

One more question. My friend, the former defense industry technician, said even though I sealed the coilpacks, they may be corroded inside. I hadn't thought of that. Has anyone ever seen or heard of this happening before? Thats the one thing I don't want to have to buy/replace due to cost.

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the help.

 

[Marotta1]

So I did some more checking. I think it may be timing but I have a few electrical questions also.

I checked the cam position sensors. They seem to be within spec, but should I be able to turn the metal cylinder in the camshaft position sensor from side to side? I would think it shouldn't move in there. There are also some little breaks in the insulation on the cam sensor wires I have to seal.

The crankshaft position sensor gives a reading of about 1130 ohms cold. I've read others on here say that their cars still started with low readings. Does that sound like it might be an issue?

Finally if it is timing related, can timing be off by 180 degrees on the Supra even if all the timing marks are lined up? And is 12 - 13 degrees on the crank timing marks too much to make it not start?