I just put a meter in my car and it's not registering where it should be.... even at full boost I'm not running even near rich... any ideas or suggestions are helpful, this is new territory for me....
how to adjust a/f ratio?
- Thread starter Supralover87
- Start date
Supralover87;1005197 said:
NEED A WHOLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE lot more details... im not the one that can help you in how to.. but i know that more info is needed Like what is it runinng at not that its not cloese to running rich... that wont do.. what kinda guage... what other mods ? stock everything ? pics of engine bay always nice so everyone can see what you have ..... just more info needed... could be vacuum leak.. low fuel presure.. pluged filter... all kinda things
ok... like I said new territory, I just put a new engine in, 89 7M-GTE in a 88 shell. it has a cooleeze ceramic intake pipe, stock exhaust, the boost is still set at stock. I have a new fuel filter, but haven't put it in yet. has all new spark plugs, wires (all NGK), new air filter, all new vacuum lines. At 4500 rpm pushing 6 1/2 pounds boost it is only registering halfway into stoich. average idle for my car is 700rpm, and the gauge ceases to register at all. I don't have the capability to post pics right now sorry 
I want to turn up the boost, but want to start where it should be before I start altering it...
I want to turn up the boost, but want to start where it should be before I start altering it...
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DegreE;1005244 said:
+1. . . all you probably have is a light show, i had a buddy that installed one in his s2k and it just went back and forth and didnt stay steady much, if at all, till he installed a wideband
the thing is is that it is steady... it doesn't bounce around like what I'm used to seeing on other peoples supras... so i have done research and am still at a loss...
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timing seems to be fine, no problems it holds consistently, it has to be the smoothest running car I've ever owned, we double checked the timing on it after dropping the new engine in, b/c we had to replace the HG. could it be with ecu?
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its possible, if you have another one i would try it (wouldnt hurt), if you dont i got one i could sell you cheap
noah89t
get naked & boost a supra
the 7m ecu's don't usually fail. i read but didn't see where you said if you had a wideband or just a crappy autometer air/fuel ratio guage. which won't tell you shit. your boost is about right. did you adjust your timing? and if you did, did you have the jumper wire in the diagnostic box? the ecu will do its job and keep your a/f correct. have you messed with the adjustment screw on the afm?
i believe he has a narrowband. and using the reading from it is not a good indicator of what your Actual AFR is. I recommend getting rid of it and buying a wideband o2 sensor and gauge to monitor AFR
Supralover87;1005224 said:
Turbo electronics and injectors?
You don't want 14.7:1 at that point. What is the ratio under full load? That is where you are at that point.
Narrowbands may not be accurate, but they are not just useless light shows. He doesn't need a wideband to know he has a problem.
Supralover: You should probably start by checking your codes and go from there. This link is your best friend. It will tell you how to check your codes and much much more.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/techtips.aspx
Keep us posted.:icon_bigg
Supralover: You should probably start by checking your codes and go from there. This link is your best friend. It will tell you how to check your codes and much much more.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/techtips.aspx
Keep us posted.:icon_bigg
Wait wait... When you say "halfway to" does that mean that the number is LOWER THAN 14.7? Lower numbers= richer mixtures. The ECU will tend to run rich at WOT and at idle. In these conditions, the meter doesn't really count.
Cruising, part throttle, constant RPM, the TCCS should be keeping it at 14.7:1 -- according to it's O2 sensor. Vf feedback can be used to see if the ECU is compensating from it's learned map at these times. (Vf should be ~2.5V) The Vf has 5 possibilities:
This will tell you what the ECU thinks is happening. If this says that the fuel is okay (2.5V) then 14.7:1 is what the ECU's O2 sensor is picking up -- as long as you're driving in closed loop mode. (Part throttle, cruising RPM.)
Cruising, part throttle, constant RPM, the TCCS should be keeping it at 14.7:1 -- according to it's O2 sensor. Vf feedback can be used to see if the ECU is compensating from it's learned map at these times. (Vf should be ~2.5V) The Vf has 5 possibilities:
- 0V -- Maximum lean. This is when the ECU is making it's maximum adjustment to the basic fuel calculation to reduce fuel.
- 1.25V -- Lean. This is the ECU removing a moderate amount of fuel from the basic fuel calculation.
- 2.5V -- No correction. The basic fuel calculation (using the learned values) is appropriate, and getting the proper feedback fromt he O2 sensor.
- 2.75V -- Rich. The ECU is adding some fuel to the basic fuel correction.
- 5V -- Maximum rich. For whatever reason, the ECU thinks that the basic fuel calculation is way too lean, and is adding in a lot of fuel at or near it's maximum in order to compensate.
This will tell you what the ECU thinks is happening. If this says that the fuel is okay (2.5V) then 14.7:1 is what the ECU's O2 sensor is picking up -- as long as you're driving in closed loop mode. (Part throttle, cruising RPM.)