Harry potter and the secret of lost VF

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Sup guys?

Sorry for my english, if i'll make some mistakes.

On to the problem: I blew my HG a couple of years ago (Maybe previous owner did it, but I found this), rebuilt motor with arp studs, metal hg, new pistons, rings, gaskets, plugs, plug wires, rc 550s, aeromotive afpr, MAFT Pro with speed density, walbro, constant 12v mod, new big rad with electric fans, new thermostat, new ECU temp sensor and I replaced a feet or two of wires going to it. My base fp is 35 psi vac off, 25 vac on. Reset timing a million of times. It jumps around 10 btdc, 9-11, but 10 most of the time.

I start the car and id idles with 12,5 a\f, can be 10 - 11 a\f. My vf shows 0v until the car is fully warm, BUT it showed voltage a couple of times almost after my temp gauge reaches some bars. Anyway it's not 30-60 seconds as it should. My vf is something shitty. As the car warms up it shows 2 volts, everything is fine, but then the miracle starts. Yesterday I read a pimptrizkit's comment in this post http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?39712-MAP-ECU-Tuning/page3&highlight=vf

My mainscale was -12 (At least it was driveable, but a\f and vf jumps constantly), and vf showed 0v, soooooo, I started to decrease fuel. I change to -15 - cool 2v, then after some time it is 0 again. -18, again 2 volts, then again it shows 0. DAFUQ? So I made my way to -21 mainscale AND to -21 Low Load @ 800 And voila! 2v almost all of the time. It can show 0 to 4,4v. I came home, opened beer and sat in front a tv like a bau$, being happy with my victory. Today I started the car and it idles at 12,5 a\f. With -42 fuel (mainscale and low load @ 800). WHAT THE ACTUAL F#*@??? When the VF came on, it started this shit again, but in opposite way. 4,4v. So I started to increase fuel, just to find out i'm on -12 mainscale and 0 at low load @ 800. I cant tune it, every time is like russian roulette. I'm sooo fuc*ing tired of this car, that I'm thinking about a JZ or an MR2. Im so tired of this 7m VF afpr mainscale a\f misfire stalling reseting timing clearing ecu codes SHIT!!!!!! I bought my car in 2009, and i cant drive it like a normal car in 2016. That's just shit. No codes, everything is fine, but it can just switch to 10 a\f and drive that way. Wired my MAFT with schemes that came with it.

Wiring? CSI? ECU? What can it be? I cant tune it with maft pro, it just doesnt have ANY logic. I'm trying to satisfy VF, but I simply cant.

Please help! Thank you!
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
And one more thing. The vf is set in steps, so my first step is 0,9v, BUT sometime i see 0,5v and voltage shifts 0,5-0,8v, like it is not in steps. I think that might be the problem, but i cant understand, where to look.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
A little update: Drove my car and it started to misfire badly, wiggled cps wiring and it died. Sooo, I'll fix that asap.
 

7MGTEsup

Formerly 'Down but not out'
Jun 14, 2005
614
0
0
England
I has a similar issue with MAFT pro years ago and never resloved it. I could get it all set up nicely and running great then shut the car down and leave it for an hour and it would run at 12:1 when previously it was 14.7 - 15:1 when cruising. Sorry I'm no help but just thought you should know it's not just an issue with your car.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Too bad You havent resolved this issue( So you was driving it like that?

I made a fully new wiring from cps to ECU, but it didnt help. The wiggly cps wires are repaired, so it is more stable, but the problem is there. It idles between 13,5 - 19 AFR. Then it can just die and after i start it again it sits at 10 AFR. I'm tired of this shit.
 

f00g00

Supramania Contributor
Jul 2, 2007
586
0
16
Kuwait
Did you try running without the MAFT Pro to see if the car runs o.k. when wired stock? 550's though? Have you tried running a Lexus AFM without the MAFT?
You might read this too but this info is for the stock system.
http://alflash.com.ua/vf1.htm
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Hmmm, never thought about it. Genius! Thank you! I'll try this. Have a Lexus AFM laying around somewhere, but my wiring for AFM is sh*t, but I'll fix it.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
I've got an update:

I made a full lenght new wiring from ECU to CPS, installed new wiring for coil packs, repaired connector and couple of wires, deleted CSI and Fuel pressure up VSV, reset timing, reset fuel pressure again to 37 psi, set -20 mainscale and voila! It runs much better, although i havent tested it much. Got it up to temp, drove a couple of miles. It seems the CSI was flooding the engine with fuel (When i took off intake manifold there were little fuel puddles in all 6 pipes.) That explains hot start problems, the CSI stayed open only after being heat up from engine and gas was dripping in the intake, making it super rich. The fuel pressure up VSV was missing the filter part, and it failed the multimiter test. I'm not saying that my problems have gone away, but seriously, the car works sooo much better. The cold start afrs are really rich, 10-11, and the car works not so well until it warms up, but after that it works nice. I'll continue my investigation.