GUIDE : Changing your oil

JSeaman

SM Official Expert: Guide Author
SM Expert
May 26, 2009
216
0
0
Derbyshire, UK
For those of you who don't know, turbo charged vehicles need frequent regular oil changes. Neglect this at your peril - seriously. Don't cut corners when it comes to changes, use a decent oil (No need to get carried away but avoid the £3 chip fat varieties!), always do the filter and use a genuine Toyota for the job. I recommend you do this every 3k miles or 6 months whichever comes first


Step 1 - Warm the car up to normal operating temperature. You should do the oil change on a warm engine to get the best results

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Note : If you want to keep a clean driveway then throw some cardboard or something similar down to prevent oil escaping

Step 2 - Jack the car up using the long enforced strut shown.

Note: If you jack up the passenger side it will encourage oil to flow out the drain plug better

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Step 3 - Safety first - stick an axle stand underneath too, lower the jack so the axle stand takes the weight then jack back up so you just take the strain off the axle stand

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Step 4 - Take an old oil container and cut out a large square as shown. Make the cut as big as you can but don't go too close to the edge of the plastic or you'll make it unstable. This is going to catch the oil coming out from the sump - alternatively get an oil drip tray or similar, just make sur eit can hold 5L!

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Step 5 - Crack off the sump nut with a 19mm socket/spanner

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Step 6 - Place your newly built oil retaining device under the sump and undo the nut with your fingers. Note : Warming the engine means the oil is hot, when you remove this nut hot oil is going to escape very quickly (as shown in the second picture). This means three things :

1. You will get a very warm hand if you put it in the oil so don't
2. The flow of oil is going to pull that sump nut straight down into the tub if you let it so get a good grip
3. You're going to make a mess if you put the tub in the wrong place!

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Step 7 - Once you've removed the bolt and started draining the oil, leave the car to drip as much as possible into the tub while you concentrate on other things. Get a rag/some tissue and clean up the sump nut. You will notice there is a washer on this - you should replace it each time you do a change. It allows the nut so seat and seal properly against the sump

Note : It may help to remove the oil cap and dipstick here so the oil can escape easily but this is optional

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Step 8 - Once the dripping has subsided you can slide under the vehicle and have a look where the oil filter is. It's the black circular thing you can see behind the pipes running along the sump. The top right of the picture has another black thing on - this is the engine mount - don't mistake this for an oil filter :) Get yourself situated where you've got good access to the filter - I tend to lie with my feet facing out the offside (driver's side) off the car and don't get my face under the filter. Do it blind and it's easier

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Step 9 - If the previous owner didn't oil the filter/tightened it up too much/left it for ages without a change (mine looked long over due with dark oil and a burnt smell), you will find it's a bit of a swine to remove the filter. You can buy a neat filter wrench (Such as : http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040210241) which will help out or you can do it the old fashioned way - use a hammer to tap a dent in the filter (don't try to go through the filter but don't worry if you do). Once you've built up a ridge in the filter, angle the screwdriver towards the rear of the car and lever it back as you tap it with the hammer. This should free up easily and then you'll be able to do the rest by hand - clockwise to do it up, anti clockwise to undo (viewed from underneath that is)

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Step 10 - Now you can do the rest by hand, unscrew the filter but be aware that it holds a fair amount of oil and that's going to fall down on your face if you aren't careful. Get well clear and try your best to keep the filter upright (i.e. the way it sits when on the car). Pull it down past the engine mount and out over the back of the crossmember (Big metal bar across the car that's in your way!). Admire your filter

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Step 11 - Take one new genuine Toyota filter ~£10, remove from the box and you'll probably find a sump nut washer (second picture), throw it away. It never fits (third picture shows it is too small).

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JSeaman

SM Official Expert: Guide Author
SM Expert
May 26, 2009
216
0
0
Derbyshire, UK
Step 12 - You'll find a plastic cover on the base of the filter, this protects the seal which is usually pre-greased. Remove this and try to make sure you don't get any grit/dirt etc on the face of the filter. If you do then clean it thoroughly or you'll have a poor seal and leakage

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Step 13 - Get your new oil and open it. I used an expensive one for the first time ever because it's th eoil the previous owner used and it doesn't burn any.

The choice of oil is up to you but I recommend Millers as a rule and 10W40

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Step 14 - Stick your (cleaned) finger in the oil (picture 1), then wipe a ring of fresh oil around the rubber seal (picture 2). Don't forget to do this.

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Step 15 - Crawl back under the car and locate the filter receptacle. Assume a decent position once again. I emphasise this because where you position yourself makes the job easy/hard. Pick a good spot and you'll find it dead easy, pick a tight space and you'll find it impossibly difficult to get your arm around the obstacles.

Do NOT overtighten the filter. Very loosely tighten it up with your fingers until you get resistance and then 3/4 of a turn to finish. If you overtighten it you WILL regret it next time

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Step 16 - Wipe clean the area surrounding the sump but because oil will have dribbled down here. Reinstall the nut with your new washer and torque it to 25ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench (you should, get one!), tighten it pretty well or it'll leak

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Step 17 - Remove the axle stand and jack so your car is level, don't be checking oil levels with it jacked up!

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Step 18 - Remove the oil filler cap (yours will probably be black and have an oil can logo on it), pour in a little under 5 litres (See TSRM for your particular car, 5L is for an auto turbo) of oil then top up using the dipstick. Wipe up any spillage. Note : A funnel will help you prevent oil getting everywhere here - burning oil smell isn't nice and a little oil goes a long way!

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Step 19 - Check your oil. Note it should come out pretty clean at this point so you may struggle to see the line on the dipstick. Use a piece of kitchen towel and place the end of the dipstick on it then roll it along. You should clearly see where the oil is. Check for leaks around the filter and sump nut at this point

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Don't forget to put your oil filler cap back on

Step 20 - Fire her up and make sure you have oil pressure (4psi+). Give it a few minutes idling (or nip up the road but not too far), then check for leaks again at the filter and sump nut. Check the oil level again and assuming everything looks good you've finished

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Step 21 - Get a large oil container (such as a camping water carrier) and a funnel. Undo the cap for the oil can and pour the old dirty oil into the storage container. Be sensible with this stuff, dispose it at the tip/garage etc and don't leave it where kids/animals are likely to drink it. As with most fluids in cars it's not particularly great for you so keep it somewhere out of the way



It's an easy job when you get used to it - worst bit is getting the filter out because oil will fall down no matter how careful you are, first time it's a bit daunting but hopefully this will help you along, good luck!