GT3582R .82AR 1JZ

[drewgo]

You daily drive your car at 23psi? I was scared to turn my boost up past 18psi with 93 octane even though my AFR's are perfect. Do you have a device that picks up detonation? I would like to install something like that on mine since I don't have the knock sensor anymore.

I don't know why the SAFC wouldn't work on mine. The tuner using it had used it on a few cars prior to mine, but it just wouldn't make power and it always ran rich. It couldn't pull enough fuel out. I don't miss it though.

Yep, I tuned it at 11psi low boost & 23 psi high. Since I left the dyno it's been oh high boost. Even while getting some groceries it's on high boost....LOL.
The Safc runs rich when you connect the Fuel Cut before the SAFC. Sometimes it can be connected and the unit is just bad, which was the case for me a while back. I had replaced it and vuala...!

Pulls hard looking at your dyno graphs!I bet it will wake up even more with some aftermarket cams. The 4082 seems awfully streetable and I bet it's up there with the GT35R as street turbo choices.

Cams add lag to the equation and add more to the top end. Not by much, I was really close to picking up CSNOW's cams he had a few month back but I really want to car to be very streetable. I knew that cams would kill my fuel economy especially with my lead foot.

 

[suprahero]

Cams do add lag, but I love them up top where I do most of my racing. Everything about my car kicks in at 3500rpm on the dot. It's slower than a chevette up till then and then it's awesome. Luckily for me, most chevettes are scared to race me.

 

[drewgo]

Cams do add lag, but I love them up top where I do most of my racing. Everything about my car kicks in at 3500rpm on the dot. It's slower than a chevette up till then and then it's awesome. Luckily for me, most chevettes are scared to race me.

I would be interested to know how much more my car can do with cams.

One day i'll be bored and cross over to the darkside.

 

[mustangnick88]

I don't know why the SAFC wouldn't work on mine. The tuner using it had used it on a few cars prior to mine, but it just wouldn't make power and it always ran rich. It couldn't pull enough fuel out. I don't miss it though.

I have a 1j and have been trying to tune with 650cc injectors on a afc neo with zero luck. After 5k it goes under 10's on the wideband and bogs. I run -50 and still way rich. I don't understand how other people are getting away with it. I was always told that 550cc are the biggest.

 

[mustangnick88]

The Safc runs rich when you connect the Fuel Cut before the SAFC. Sometimes it can be connected and the unit is just bad, which was the case for me a while back. I had replaced it and vuala...!

what unit are you talking bout?

 

[csnow]

I was really close to picking up CSNOW's cams he had a few month back but I really want to car to be very streetable. I knew that cams would kill my fuel economy especially with my lead foot.

I still got them :evil2:

 

[afracer]

What do you guys think of this turbo for a streetable 500hp 1J? Full Race F1-35R... http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pr...=1841&osCsid=bf368b79818dc36fd6538716526a253d

I was also considering something GT3582R sized for my 1JZ, and wondered if anyone had any experience with the twin scroll GT35R's, like how much better they really spool. http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pr...=1129&osCsid=bf368b79818dc36fd6538716526a253d

The only problem with that one is the 1.06 A/R on a T3 flange, and what I've researched is with stock or smaller cams on street/strip setups, 1J's do better with smaller A/R's so the 1.06 is definitely a bit too large possibly. There's also this option, GT3582 with a .78 A/R on a twin scroll T3 flange; http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-006&Category_Code=GRT

That F1-35R however is on a twin scroll T4 flange so it'll should spool okay and still pull up top, with a .70 A/R that to me sounds like a great option for something in the GT35R-4082 range.

GT3582 twin scroll .78 A/R (T3) vs F1-35R twin scroll .70 A/R (T4)

Any thoughts? I haven't seen/heard of any 1J's running one of these.

 

[SupraFan55]

It looks promising as it offers a divided inlet/twin scroll but I have yet to see any car run a Turbonetics Twinscroll GT35R in either T3 and T4, I know the Garrett GT35R has proven itself well as I saw numerous cars run it and you can see easily why it's such a popular choice, you can get the T4 Garrett GT35R in .82 a/r and I know ATP offers a .58 a/r T4 as well which seems to be a setup to look at as I think it would spool very early given it's a/r. Both are at ATP as you see. I also found another site where you can get a GT35R with T4 .68 V-Band discharge which I've never came across until recently. You can also look into a Precision 61mm DBB with an a/r around .68 or so.

IMHO I would save my money and get a T3 or T4 standard DBB Garrett/Precision unit and run the a/r you want for your goals. I've seen GT35's go from anywhere from 1250-1400 depending on where you are shopping.

Suprahero, any luck on finding out the turbine a/r of your GT35R?

 

[250sx]

what unit are you talking bout?

prolly the FCD.

 

[250sx]

http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/supraheroes/videos/?action=view&current=SANY0363.flv

I just saw this video. The car seems to pull decent for you not showing the cars full potential.

I see the safcii, i'm assuming that would have been on your old setup w/o the stinger?

 

[RacerXJ220]

From all the searching I did on SF regarding the GT4088R, the 1.06 twin scroll housing is perfect if not too small even on the divided manifolds when going to high power. It's just .5 L different. A lot of the GT40R's Honda guys are running use a 1.06 A/R divided.

It's the turbo/housing I'm using on my 2.5L bottom end + boost logic manifold. I really hope to have some dyno time within the next few weeks.

 

[afracer]

That's what kinda what Full Race is advertising with their twin scroll GT35R:

"Using the highly efficient twin scroll turbine housing design with the highly acclaimed GT35R turbocharger allows the turbo to spool sooner, make more low end, more midrange and improves VE so much that it even picks up top end power. This is the most responsive Garrett turbocharger for the 500-600whp range."

But yet it's only offered in 1.06 A/R, so it must not be too bad if it's supposed to spool quicker than a standard 35R, just don't know if they're comparing it to the same A/R or not. Either way I'd love to rock either this one or the F1-35R....then again, they have the GT37R for like $300 CHEAPER but that might be a little too big for a daily driver.

 

[meet07]

The .82 gives the gt35R a lil bit of lag huh superhero??? 3500rpm full boost is great but sounds like it takes a minute.

 

[7Mboost]

The .82 gives the gt35R a lil bit of lag huh superhero??? 3500rpm full boost is great but sounds like it takes a minute.

That's close to some stock turbos! Can't complain at all at FULL boost at only 3500rpm and go to what 7200rpm with more room to go.

 

[SupraFan55]

Not to mention his power doesn't fall off at all due to the cams he got, I'm not sure if his a/r is .82 though, Suprahero still hasn't updated us with his turbine a/r.

 

[Zazzn]

Hey guys,

There was no extra lag form the cams, what you loose is your bottem end though. I think i lost like 40 WHP off boost, but gained 140WHP at 7800RPM so yeah... I'd give that up in a heart beat. You see it makes you think it's spooling slow due to the loss of low end.

I have the graphs if anyone actually really cares too see it, but boost actually hit 200 RPM ealier for getting into full boost.

The thing about the 1jz is the displacement just isn't there. I think anything bigger then a 67 on a 1jz is crazy and I believe a 35R is the best size turbo for the car or a 61, even smaller = more fun. But anything larger and you start to loose street fun and make it a highway racer due to the fact the first gear becomes useless.

IMO 1jz is good for aprox 435-500 WHP on pump gas, if you yearn for the 500 range you loose out more then you should IMO becuase that means stepping up form a 67 or such to a 4088 ect.

Running a single without cams on the 1jz honestly is like uping the boost without getting a 3" exhaust, top end dies HARD mid and low feels good though.

Very soon I'll be releaseing, a larger version of the cams that is interference and should give another 20-30WHP, I need to find a test monkey though since I no longer have a 1jz after giving away the engine due to spitting a shim for cam testing :'(

 

[meet07]

^ what else besides cams do you have that allows you to rev around 7800rpms??? everyone says the stock 1j can rev upwards of 8k so does that mean get some 272's and up the revlimit??

 

[drewgo]

^ what else besides cams do you have that allows you to rev around 7800rpms??? everyone says the stock 1j can rev upwards of 8k so does that mean get some 272's and up the revlimit??

An upgraded ecu or a standalone will up your rev limit, also an emanage Ulitimate.
The rule of thumbs is 8k. Depending on the conditions of your engine you will experience valve float after 8k rpm....Not a good thing. A stock 1j with stock cams can rev to 8k. You don't need cams to get there. Cams allow more air into combustion at higher rpm's therefore you'll make more Power up top. But you can still make good power with the stock cams. If you want to go higher then 8k, then it's recommended to add cams so that your engine can breath uptop, and valve springs and retainer so that you can prevent valve float.

Hope that helps