Good oil cooler setup?

[Mr.PFloyd]

i was looking through summit racing and i def decided to replace the stock oil cooler setup. my question now was what kind of cooler should i look into? I know the stock one is tiny, and uses a flawed design with a spring that regulates flow into the cooler at a specific pressure, but i have not found into specifics of what to look for when looking at oil cooler setups. So please bear with these questions.
1) i would more then likely need some sort of other thermostat because the stock one has one built in correct?
2) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER-15502&N=700+1004+115&autoview=sku
would this possibly be a good replacement for my aging oil cooler and what else would i possibly need to finish my kit. Any other good recommendations for a kit/alternative that won't break the bank completely (im not skimping out on the oiling system, its just my car is going to be relatively conservative with power)
3) im relocating my oil filter for sure, but is there a problem with the oil filter and the cooler being spaced too far apart?

thanks ahead of time guys.
All the best,
Thomas
ps. there should be a faq about this no?

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Get the B&M 70266. I use that, and trust me it cools very well. When my 1st B&M was mounted it chaffed on the body and leaked. I ran without a cooler, and my oil temps went as high as 260 degees. After reinstalling the 70266 my oil temps fell to 195 degrees. After adding the Bomex big mouth bumper in the summer its hovers around 180. Buy your parts separately.The aluminum stuffin the kits suck. Get a billet block adapter, and a billetaluminum filter mount.The cast units crack very easy. I am using aeroquip -10 push lock hoses and fittings.

 

[Gilsdorf]

This is the set up I did back in August, it is a completely new full flow oil system.
I went with an N/A stud, Canton remote filter adapter, remote filter mount (perma coolRM-1791) w/ Canton Mecca 6.25 spin on filter (8 micron filtration), 180deg B&M thermostat (BMM-70259) , earls 13"x7" cooler, 2qt Canton Accusump with Electronic Pressure Control valving (20-25psi), all plumbed with Earl's AN -10 SS lines and fittings.

Mounted the accusump in the trunk, and plumbed it through the floor with a bulkhead fitting.

Tight fit for a regular wrench, but a stubby or an AN wrench should work.

Mounted the remote filter under the driver's headlight. I'll trim the plastic cover to clean it up a bit, the brass fitting is a one-way check valve so when the accusump dumps it doesn't push against the oil pump (the CM filter has an anti drain back system but I figured I didn't want to over power it and force the filter to back flow). This will have to be relocated now because I got rid of the Spearco IC and am installing a FFIM and 24x12x4 IC.

This is the thermostat, I got a bunch of 180 degree Earl's fittings on sale so I ended up positioning it this way, if I didn't get the hose ends so cheap I would have just turned the thermostat 90 degrees and plumbed it with right angle fittings. (one of the 180's is off until I drop the engine in). Notice the second check valve, this ensures that the oil coming from the thermostat doesn't flow back and stall when it is only partially open, it also keeps the cooler from siphoning out once the engine is turned off.

Earl's cooler mounted in front of A/C (could have gone bigger, but it is nearly twice the size of the stock one).

I drilled out the coin holder to mount the toggle switch for the electronic valve on the Accusump. It fits great and the holder closes completely (I don't have my battery hooked up, so I don't know which way is ON).

This turned out to be an expensive way to go, but knowing that I have a decent system that should stand up to any future higher horsepower goals does give me some piece of mind, (i'm currently at ~500whp, it'll handle anything I'm going to do in the future). I made all of the hose myself with a cutter I bought from Summit and for most of the fittings I just wrapped them in electric tape and used two cresent wrenches to tighten them down, (some got slightly nicked-up, but I'm not building a show car).

Matt

 

[cjsupra90]

Dont bother with any aftermarket coolers. Hit up a salvage yard and get a 2nd gen (86-92) RX-7 factory oil cooler (One of the best coolers availible). A lot of people think that how could it being a OEM installed parts could be better then an aftermarket unit, well here is why it is. On a rotary engine, 1/3rd of the engines cooling is done via oil where as a piston engine, it about 1/10th. Due to the fact that oil temp is very critical to the life of a rotary engine, Mazda did not cut any corners on the oil cooler. The problem with aftermarket coolers is cost and additional parts needed. On top of a adaptor (whether it be a cooler feed and return sandwich plate or a remote filter kit) you will also need thermostaticly controled bypass valve. The RX-7 unit has the bypass built in. It will end up cheaper to pick up a RX-7 unit, some sort of feed unit (as mentioned earlier) and have the cooler cleaned (local radiatior shop) then to buy a new Aftermarket unit, feeder and bypass. Not to mention that in just about every case a you'll end up with a better cooling unit. Proff of this is the fact that there are no coolers out on the market that are considered an upgrade for the Factory RX-7 unit with the exception of the a couple of Monoco units (extremely expensive) and the Mazda Factory Race unit (again Extremely expensive).