Gold flakes in transmission fluid.
- Thread starter deazndude
- Start date
sell it on ebay- "for sale here is a gold producing toyota supra transmission" current bid-$500,000
that looks like a LOT of shavings in there...would one assume that the fluid has never been drained before? how does it shift? i think its safe to assume its the syncros.
if it were me, id stick a magnet in the fluid and see what kind of ferrous (magnetic) metal comes out. if it turns out that the damage is mostly just the brass and if it shifts fine, i myself may be inclined to drive it awhile longer, maybe drain the fluid again in 4-5k miles and see if its still as bad. maybe the trans was abused for a bit? otherwise id guess its just never been drained.
thats just me, more people will tell you to split the case and dig in.
that looks like a LOT of shavings in there...would one assume that the fluid has never been drained before? how does it shift? i think its safe to assume its the syncros.
if it were me, id stick a magnet in the fluid and see what kind of ferrous (magnetic) metal comes out. if it turns out that the damage is mostly just the brass and if it shifts fine, i myself may be inclined to drive it awhile longer, maybe drain the fluid again in 4-5k miles and see if its still as bad. maybe the trans was abused for a bit? otherwise id guess its just never been drained.
thats just me, more people will tell you to split the case and dig in.
meh, its not good but def not the worst ive seen come out of a trans.
looks like a couple pieces may be actual "chunks" while the rest of it looks like flakes? chunks are worse than flakes...flakes arent good either, its an indication that a bearing/race is trying to erode. is that all that came off the magnet?
looks like a couple pieces may be actual "chunks" while the rest of it looks like flakes? chunks are worse than flakes...flakes arent good either, its an indication that a bearing/race is trying to erode. is that all that came off the magnet?
It was whatever was left at the bottom of the pan after i poured it out. I also use this pan to drain oil, but it was pretty clean when i used it to drain the transmission. There was also shavings not just flakes that I found connected to the magnet. The metals on my finger are mostly silver shavings also.
The gold flakes are indeed your synchronizers, how does it feel changing gears? When those gold flakes turn silver, then you can worry.
Flush the transmission real good and drive it for a few thousand then check again. Saddens me to say but that could just be bad neglect of not ever changing the fluids.
Flush the transmission real good and drive it for a few thousand then check again. Saddens me to say but that could just be bad neglect of not ever changing the fluids.
If i shift normally it seems to go in okay. It only grinds when i shift at a bad angle. Another strange thing i have noticed is that if i say shift from 3rd into neutral, and then try to shift into 2nd, it sometimes refuses to go in. It isn't only 3rd and 2nd though, it can also be 4th gear to 2nd gear, or 3rd into 1st. It just doesn't seem to want to go in, i have to sometimes double clutch, and even at times that doesn't seem to work.
My transmission refuses to go into 1st at anything above 5mph. 2nd gear I need to double clutch it as the PO was really hard on the transmission. Doing a flush with redline then driving it around for a thousand or so miles and changing the fluid again has helped.
Ah, thanks for the info and the help. I guess I'll just slap the transmission and ride it out with new MT-90 fluid and see if it gets better. Quick question, you wouldn't know the proper way to remove the flywheel on a manual transmission car do you? Or any write ups on proper clutch installation? I've already been searching around, but extra info is always good info.
get an impact or use a flywheel holder tool like this one.
in order to remove the trans youll have to pull the clutch fork pin and pull the fork out and the trans should come out with everything else removed. heres the procedure, just click through "next page" for the rest.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=4
i like to do mine like the manual says, remove the pressure plate/clutch along with the trans, it makes installing a lot easier, just tedious with having to spin the flywheel (removing spark plugs makes it even easier)
also note, the pressure plate bolts arent perfectly symmetrical, some are offset...so bolting the pressure plate up through the trans access holes can be annoying if you dont have the holes marked. just hold the plate up to the flywheel and make a good mark on both before putting the assembly on the trans, so you dont fight it when going in.
in order to remove the trans youll have to pull the clutch fork pin and pull the fork out and the trans should come out with everything else removed. heres the procedure, just click through "next page" for the rest.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=4
i like to do mine like the manual says, remove the pressure plate/clutch along with the trans, it makes installing a lot easier, just tedious with having to spin the flywheel (removing spark plugs makes it even easier)
also note, the pressure plate bolts arent perfectly symmetrical, some are offset...so bolting the pressure plate up through the trans access holes can be annoying if you dont have the holes marked. just hold the plate up to the flywheel and make a good mark on both before putting the assembly on the trans, so you dont fight it when going in.
