For those with a 1.5JZ using GE Parts

[BJ91T]

I am looking to get some insight from folks that went 1.5JZ using a GE Block with the stock NA pistons. While I know the stock NA/GE pistons are probably not the best option I believe it has been done and should hold my setup together, If nothing else at-least long enough to get the EMS tune perfect rather than tuning on a new forged motor.

Here are my questions

1.Using GE Pistons and a 1JZ Head what Headgasket did you folks use and what compression ratio did it yield?

2. What oil pump was used? The NA or the TT? I am told the 1jz and the 2jz TT pumps are the same? I am curious as to what the oil pressure is if using a turbo pump with no oil squirters.

3. My 1jz was used in another car with only an alternator with some ghetto custom bracket are the NA 2JZ ac pump and power steering pump brackets and pumps interchangeable? I assume the TT power steering suction hose "fitting" will be needed to ditch the huge NA reservoir.

4. Can someone post some pics of the front of a 1jz with the accessories in place as I could not find a nice one.


Thanks In Advance for all the help
BJ

 

[rakkasan]

I am looking to get some insight from folks that went 1.5JZ using a GE Block with the stock NA pistons. While I know the stock NA/GE pistons are probably not the best option I believe it has been done and should hold my setup together, If nothing else at-least long enough to get the EMS tune perfect rather than tuning on a new forged motor.

Here are my questions

1.Using GE Pistons and a 1JZ Head what Headgasket did you folks use and what compression ratio did it yield? 1.9mm, just shy of 8.9:1

2. What oil pump was used? The NA or the TT? I am told the 1jz and the 2jz TT pumps are the same? I am curious as to what the oil pressure is if using a turbo pump with no oil squirters. I run a new TT pump and I get around 45psi at idle, 80ish at speed

3. My 1jz was used in another car with only an alternator with some ghetto custom bracket are the NA 2JZ ac pump and power steering pump brackets and pumps interchangeable? I assume the TT power steering suction hose "fitting" will be needed to ditch the huge NA reservoir. Not really sure

4. Can someone post some pics of the front of a 1jz with the accessories in place as I could not find a nice one.

 

[rakkasan]

Let me add, after the calculations I ran, a 2.0mm yielded an 8.6:1 C/R. I chose to use a thinner MHG so I could bump it up to 8.9:1 because I have a stand alone ECU and wanted more torque (which it does!). With that said, treat this as bullshit info and do your own calculations to determine what your compression ratio will be, I don't want to be held responsible for popping a piston

 

[BJ91T]

Thanks for all the info and for those pictures. That is exactly what i was looking for.

Edit: Just realized after looking at my motor again the "custom" alternator bracket is so the idler/Tensinor can be deleted and belt tension is achieved via moving the alternator down the bracket (much like the 7M does)

 

[86_sports_1jz]

im also interested in this thread and the questions

 

[rakkasan]

im also interested in this thread and the questions

where you questions answered?

 

[OneJArpus]

I am looking to get some insight from folks that went 1.5JZ using a GE Block with the stock NA pistons. While I know the stock NA/GE pistons are probably not the best option I believe it has been done and should hold my setup together, If nothing else at-least long enough to get the EMS tune perfect rather than tuning on a new forged motor.

Here are my questions

1.Using GE Pistons and a 1JZ Head what Headgasket did you folks use and what compression ratio did it yield?

2. What oil pump was used? The NA or the TT? I am told the 1jz and the 2jz TT pumps are the same? I am curious as to what the oil pressure is if using a turbo pump with no oil squirters.

3. My 1jz was used in another car with only an alternator with some ghetto custom bracket are the NA 2JZ ac pump and power steering pump brackets and pumps interchangeable? I assume the TT power steering suction hose "fitting" will be needed to ditch the huge NA reservoir.

4. Can someone post some pics of the front of a 1jz with the accessories in place as I could not find a nice one.


Thanks In Advance for all the help
BJ

1. I am running a boost logic 2.5 MM headgasket. The head was machined all i forgot my calculations but it wasn't too far off from what i had on the head n block etc etc.... As rakkasan stated please do you own calculations but as a "helper i ran 2.5mm"

2. TT oil pump MUST be used as it has the provisions for the crank position sensor. You can use the 1JZ Pump with no issues as they are the same. I have a 61mm turbo and i see 40-60 cold 40 idle @ 1K and at 2500+ i see 80+ psi.

3. I believe the brackets are interchangeable


rakkasan, care to share the part # of that hydro fan pump?

 

[rakkasan]

rakkasan, care to share the part # of that hydro fan pump?

Not sure of the part number, but Aaron sells them. He has a local company rebuild them, IIRC. Good call on the TT oil pump too, the crank position sensor is kinda important . I had the teeth tack welded onto the sleeve as added protection

 

[OneJArpus]

Not sure of the part number, but Aaron sells them. He has a local company rebuild them, IIRC. Good call on the TT oil pump too, the crank position sensor is kinda important . I had the teeth tack welded onto the sleeve as added protection

Thanks for the info!!! Do you remember the cost to rebuild it? That + my ALT are the only two things i haven't put in the car brand new as they still work lol.


Also, you need the take the timing gear behind the crank pulley as it has the correct teeth needed for th crank position sensor to work properly. Make sure you use a puller if not you will damage it and need to purchase a new one from the dealer. IIRC 25-70 bux new but save yourself the cash and remove it properly!

---------- Post added at 10:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM ----------

If you have any other questions or need certain pics let me know i still have all the pics from when i went 1.5jz and still have the information fresh in my mind

 

[OneJSupra]

So we need to have sticky on the list of items needed for those who want to build a 1.5jz. That would be very helpful to all.

 

[OneJArpus]

i'll see what i can come up with before the weekend is out

 

[86_sports_1jz]

So we need to have sticky on the list of items needed for those who want to build a 1.5jz. That would be very helpful to all.

i agree thats a good idea, after some people finish with the 1.5 swap they forget some details...

 

[BJ91T]

Confirmed: The 2JZ-GE brackets work fine. I just got the ac compressor and power steering pump bolted to my 1jz this afternoon. Swapped the 7M AC Compressor "manifold" onto the 2JZ compressor and bolted everything up. As far as the reservoir for the steering fluid once the NA reservoir is unbolted and removed the TT Hose barb can and will bolt right on.

 

[suprahero]

I have two things to add to this........

First: Go with a little higher compression like Mark did. I drove his car for a few days and I also drove mine around and my compression is 8.6 / 1 by my calculations. His car is way stronger than mine out of boost and is a blast to drive. I used a gte block and forged internals at stockish compression.

Second: When you guys feel this is Stickie material, let me know and I'll stick it.

 

[OneJArpus]

I have two things to add to this........

First: Go with a little higher compression like Mark did. I drove his car for a few days and I also drove mine around and my compression is 8.6 / 1 by my calculations. His car is way stronger than mine out of boost and is a blast to drive. I used a gte block and forged internals at stockish compression.

Second: When you guys feel this is Stickie material, let me know and I'll stick it.

I'll make up a layout in word then PM you when i made a post so it can be stickied

 

[Jostar]

any updates?

 

[rakkasan]

I can get the ball running if Arpus doesn't want to take the lead on it, but I'll for him to let me know.....

 

[OneJArpus]

I can get the ball running if Arpus doesn't want to take the lead on it, but I'll for him to let me know.....

If you wanna share input thats cool with me... im a bz guy with a family n what not but i had enough time to write this off the top of my head


1.5JZ SWAP INFORMATION
This thread is for anyone wanting to do a 1.5JZ swap with their current 1JZGTE. There are many options to go with I will show you what I did and what I’ve used for my swap.
1JZGTE
2JZ-GE Longblock (block is all you need but I got this engine for a hell of a deal. $300 bucks from a guy I met go carting)

Parts Needed for swap:
1JZGTE/2JZGTE Oil Pump (Needed for CPS provisions)
1JZGTE Upper Oil pan, Lower Oil Pan, Baffle, and pickup.
1JZGTE Knock Sensors (I chose to use these as I know they worked on my 1J and one Knock sensor looked different on the 2J for the connector)
1JZGTE Oil filter housing cooler and hoses going to block & water pipe that goes around block. (i decided to keep the 1j housing as the 2j one was damaged)
Oil Filter Sandwhich plate (used for 7M Oil Pressure sender & Turbo Feed
1JZGTE Coolant Neck (runs around the back of the engine—Modification needed for single turbo upgrade)
Aftermarket 1JZGTE turbo manifold
Turbo
Downpipe (will need mofication due to height)
ARP Headbolts
Aftermarket HG
Water pump pipe
Maintenance
Might as well do valve stem seals


I used a 2.5MM Boost Logic Headgasket as I am using stock GE internals. If you have a GTE or rebuild the GE block with forged internals with GTE specs you can use the stock 2JZGTE or 1JZGTE headgasket per machine spec.

You will need the water pipe that is connected to the back of the waterpump which connects the upper neck.

You might as well do basic maintenance while you are here.

 

[rakkasan]

If you wanna share input thats cool with me... im a bz guy with a family n what not but i had enough time to write this off the top of my head


1.5JZ SWAP INFORMATION
This thread is for anyone wanting to do a 1.5JZ swap with their current 1JZGTE. There are many options to go with I will show you what I did and what I've used for my swap.
1JZGTE
2JZ-GE Longblock (block is all you need but I got this engine for a hell of a deal. $300 bucks from a guy I met go carting)

Parts Needed for swap:
1JZGTE/2JZGTE Oil Pump (Needed for CPS provisions) notice the CPS port at the 8 o'clock from the oil pimp drive gear (crank)

1JZGTE Upper Oil pan, Lower Oil Pan, Baffle, and pickup.

1JZGTE Knock Sensors (I chose to use these as I know they worked on my 1J and one Knock sensor looked different on the 2J for the connector)

1JZGTE Oil filter housing cooler and hoses going to block & water pipe that goes around block. (i decided to keep the 1j housing as the 2j one was damaged) Or a sandwick plate adapter with oil cooler can be used as well

Oil Filter Sandwhich plate (used for 7M Oil Pressure sender & Turbo Feed) see above

Water pump pipe this piece. It's about 1/2 - 3/4" longer to make up for the extra deck hieght

Aftermarket 1JZGTE turbo manifold if going single. the stock twins will work, but I would guess that they would surge like a MF'er due to the added displacement :icon_bigg

Turbo see above

regardless of the turbo set up, the DP will more than likely have to be modified to make up for the added deck hieght

ARP Headbolts http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-arp203-4205.php

Aftermarket HG ahhh, the head gasket, the most commonly ask question regarding the 1.5JZ swap is what thickness to use. Well, the thickness YOU use is your responsibility, but I will give my .02.

start here: compresion calculator. To get it right, you must know all of YOUR measurements. If you use a used short block, has the deck been milled? How much? How about your head? Basically, you need know the exact volume your cylinders have, and where the volume is as well (in the cylinders and the head [better know as quench]). The more boost/power you plan on running, the more critical it is to get these calculations spot on.

Now that you have figured out your volume(s), you need to determine your build. I went for a higher compression, smaller rear A/R turbo that wont see over 20psi. My target C/R was between 8.9 & 9.0:1, and I hit it threw careful calculations. Since I run stand alone, I knew I could manage the tune a lot better and keep the bad things at bay. The result is a car that has a ton of torque OFF boost & makes positive boost as low as 2,100rpm. I took a 2.0mm MHG to a machine shop, had them disassemble it & mill the center gasket in order to make it 1.9mm. It is a GREAT street motor that makes 450 whp & I know it will embarass more than a few cars that makes a lot more HP than I do.

If you want to run more boost on a stock ECU with piggyback, I wouldnt recommend doing the same. The moral of this diatribe is to decide on what you want from your motor before you start the build.

I used a 2.5MM Boost Logic Headgasket as I am using stock GE internals. If you have a GTE or rebuild the GE block with forged internals with GTE specs you can use the stock 2JZGTE or 1JZGTE headgasket per machine spec. Arpus, what is your C/R?

Two things that weren't mentioned was a 2JZ timing belt and the 1JZ crank snout gear with the crank position sensor spur on it must be used to fire the CPS (sorry, I can't remember the exact name) ......

 

[rakkasan]

one more add: Even if you are using a 2JZ-GTE pistons (or motor), you still should calculate your cylinder volumes to determine your MHG thickness. The 1JZ head has a smaller dome than the 2JZ head, so there it has less quench area, therefore your C/R is not going to be the same as if you used a 2JZ head. It is cheaper to buy a stock 2JZ-GTE MHG than it is to buy an aftermarket MHG, but it could prove to be more costly to rebuild the motor after you hit boost for the first time and the motor goes tits up.

My first step was to get the motor and head machined & assembled. I took them to a local machine shop and had them give me the CC's of both, determined the thickness of the MHG needed based on my target C/R, then I bought my MHG, a 2.0mm stopper. I took it back to the machine shop and had them machine it down to the appropriate thickness. This process took about 3-4 months, and it wasn't cheap. I was charged $120 for the cc'ing, $360 for the stopper MHG & another $80 (I think) for the machining of the MHG, but I got exactly what I was after. A great street motor that makes great torque off boost and hits boost fast and hard.