Finishing my BHG, questions on preventing rod knock

TargaMK3Turbo

Money pit thats worth it!
Jun 11, 2007
235
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Lambertville, MI
I read the sticky on how coolent eats away crank bearings. This was VERY helpfull to me as I never knew that. Now, I'm very very nervous though.

I drove the car prolly 10 miles on a BHG in order to get home. The reason it blew was bc the head was improperly torqued by the previous owner. The engine has about 1800 miles on a fresh rebuild. The head bolts were crazy loose, I easily removed them with a 3/8 drive ratchet. I'd say the bolts had less than 50 ft/lbs. The gasket blew from cylinder to cylinder, nothing bad at all.

Now, the car has been sitting for about 2 weeks wating to get the head back from the machine shop and waiting on parts. I read the sticky not too long ago and the car has been sitting with oil and everything still in it. I WILL be changing the oil before it starts, a good oil change, and I will change it again after 100 miles of driving to ensure it clean of any coolent.

What I'm nervous about it is; will my car get rod knock from driving the car 10 miles home? Also, since it's been sitting for 2 weeks with oil and coolent still in the system, is that coolent eating away the bearings or is the oil pan deep enough so the crank wont touch upon sitting?

Sorry for the long thread, but I wanted to explain my situation being it was a very minor BHG and a fresh motor. Also, it's 98% stock.

Thanks everyone!!!!
 

ViR2

Supraniac
May 20, 2006
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Lithuania
www.hpaddict.eu
it wont get you a rod knock if the bearings are in a good condition from that, just try to get every single drop from the system when you'll change the oil. Pour old oil out and flush system with additional q of new oil before you fill her with oil ;) You SHOULD be safe. ;)
 

TargaMK3Turbo

Money pit thats worth it!
Jun 11, 2007
235
0
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38
Lambertville, MI
ViR2 said:
it wont get you a rod knock if the bearings are in a good condition from that, just try to get every single drop from the system when you'll change the oil. Pour old oil out and flush system with additional q of new oil before you fill her with oil ;) You SHOULD be safe. ;)

Thank you! I've been soo nervous. I've killed many cars due to rod knock (fords only) and I realy like this car. A rod knock would mean something new and I don't want to go that route so I'm trying to prevent it ever so much.

So the journals (sp?) don't touch any oil or anything while sitting? It all sits in the pan?
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
1
36
36
Downey, California, United States
Well, is your oil milkshaky looking? If so...I would change the oil before the engine is started...idle the engine for about 5 mins...change again...and then repeat...and maybe one more time...;)

Then drive around for a few miles...(under 100) and change the oil again...

I WOULD do it one more time in a few hundred miles after that...

Yes, it's redundant and costs a bit of money...but it's better than rebuilding your engine...Also, I followed the above procedure on my car, and it has been fine after a BHG for almost 2 years.

BTW...you should ALWAYS run your 7M +1 quart over...(so fill with 6 quarts)
 

vas85

SupraNut
Sep 29, 2006
391
0
0
Sydney, AU
johnathan1 said:
Well, is your oil milkshaky looking? If so...I would change the oil before the engine is started...idle the engine for about 5 mins...change again...and then repeat...and maybe one more time...;)

Then drive around for a few miles...(under 100) and change the oil again...

I WOULD do it one more time in a few hundred miles after that...

Yes, it's redundant and costs a bit of money...but it's better than rebuilding your engine...Also, I followed the above procedure on my car, and it has been fine after a BHG for almost 2 years.

BTW...you should ALWAYS run your 7M +1 quart over...(so fill with 6 quarts)

Why should you run her 1 quart over, and what on earth is a quart... (consulting google)

1 US quart = 946.35295 milliliters.... why would you fill her 946ml over...??? I'm curious if everyone does it then i'll do it but only once I know exactly why...

Did the engineers not know what they were doing...???
 

vas85

SupraNut
Sep 29, 2006
391
0
0
Sydney, AU
IJ. said:
Vas: 1 quart is close to 1 litre and it's a good thing in a 7m to run the extra oil.

Coming from you IJ i'll go now and pour the rest of the 1litre Mobil I've got. :icon_bigg
 

vas85

SupraNut
Sep 29, 2006
391
0
0
Sydney, AU
IJ. said:
Think of it as insurance if you go for a long drive ;)

yeah... I just get a little scared adding 1 litre ontop of the "Full" part of the oil.... but I think the engine would run slightly cooler... because when I've had oil go to like half way between low and full... I have more of the clutch fan on... as opposed to when its full it's hardly ever used.
 

TargaMK3Turbo

Money pit thats worth it!
Jun 11, 2007
235
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38
Lambertville, MI
Thanks for all the info everyone! It's very helpfull. I fell much better now. Yea, I'll give her 6 quarts, run it, change it, then 6 more quarts, drive it for about 100 miles, then change it again.
When doing this, is it ok to stick with the same oil filter? I bought a new fram tough guard yesterday and Valvoline Durablend 10w-30.. IS this pretty good stuff?

Thanks!
 

steven89

Member
Jul 8, 2006
892
0
16
Houston, TX
johnathan1 said:
Well, is your oil milkshaky looking? If so...I would change the oil before the engine is started...idle the engine for about 5 mins...change again...and then repeat...and maybe one more time...;)

Then drive around for a few miles...(under 100) and change the oil again...

I WOULD do it one more time in a few hundred miles after that...

Yes, it's redundant and costs a bit of money...but it's better than rebuilding your engine...Also, I followed the above procedure on my car, and it has been fine after a BHG for almost 2 years.

BTW...you should ALWAYS run your 7M +1 quart over...(so fill with 6 quarts)


I did this.. and ive been knock free for about 3-4 months now. :D
 

TargaMK3Turbo

Money pit thats worth it!
Jun 11, 2007
235
0
0
38
Lambertville, MI
Well, I've had good luck with Fram. I put a K&N oil filter and full synthetic in my 4.6 stang and got a rod knock somehow from it. I had a bunch of probes and switched to synthetic, they got rod knocks.

I guess what I'm asking, what oil should I go with thats not full synthetic?

My local auto stores dont carry wix or purolater.