Fast, Cheap, 7M-GE HP without a Turbo?

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
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88MK3.;1871555 said:
ya but then when i go turbo all that woulda been for nothin

Ok then, If I were you, I'd forget modifying the GE as is and build out a nice turbo set up for your self. Save money and time before hand by not modifying the GE now, then you have that to put towards your turbo build.

Like the post above, ITBs or a custom intake would not be a bad thing to have with a turbo.

Just to throw this out here, unless your VERY inventive, cheap power and a GE don't go together.

Either way, good luck and have fun!
 

MPR

John 3:16
Dec 17, 2011
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When it comes to making serious extra power, you have to decide before hand if you want to go turbo or NA. Reason being is because some of the mods for either option are not exactly compatible.

For example; Forced induction and high overlap cams do not work well together.

Itb's and boost works fine.

Beware, with itb's with NA setup. They are really designed to optimize the VE in a certain rpm range making for a more narrow powerband. If you want to go NA but still want a wide powerband, stick with the stock manifold but switch to MAF or MAP sensor and get rid of the stock AFM.
 

88MK3.

New Member
i do wana go turbo, but off that subject how do u change over to a MAF from the AFM? ive seen a translator box that that plugs into the stock harness then u plug a GM MAF into it but is that one only way or is there better? and how will that increase my HP besides lessening intake flow resistance?
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Keep in mind even if you spend TONS of money (and I mean thousands) on doing an NA build, you're never going to get to even the level of a mildly modified turbo car.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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If you're planning on an eventual Turbo, the na stuff will be a waste of time and money.

I've driven quite possibly the nicest, fastest street na I've even heard of and a simple stock turbo in good shape is much faster.

Having owned and driven many a mk3, save your pennies for the swap. :)

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stevenr816

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Feb 12, 2007
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None really.
Either A: nitrous. If your worried about internals then I don't know what to say. Obviously the turbo ones have the same pistons and rods with the addition of squirters. So you could easily do a 150 shot. With a msd retard box and some folder plugs.

But since nitrous is never ending and will get very expensive, I would vote another option. High compression pistons, cams, head work, and itbs.

But still with all of that you still aren't going to make crap for power and depending on compression ratio you'd possibly have to run race/e85 all the time. Keep in mind if you do do high compression you can still throw nitrous on top of that since the pistons will most likely he forged.

I know of a civic that is running almost 16:1 compression, huge cams, stroker, dry sump that's making 430hp at the wheels with a 2.7L i4


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Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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stevenr816;1871618 said:
None really.
Either A: nitrous. If your worried about internals then I don't know what to say. Obviously the turbo ones have the same pistons and rods with the addition of squirters. So you could easily do a 150 shot. With a msd retard box and some folder plugs.

But since nitrous is never ending and will get very expensive, I would vote another option. High compression pistons, cams, head work, and itbs.

But still with all of that you still aren't going to make crap for power and depending on compression ratio you'd possibly have to run race/e85 all the time. Keep in mind if you do do high compression you can still throw nitrous on top of that since the pistons will most likely he forged.

I know of a civic that is running almost 16:1 compression, huge cams, stroker, dry sump that's making 430hp at the wheels with a 2.7L i4


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Because it can rev much higher than a 7M can safely. Not to mention building an NA engine to that degree makes it drive worse than a huge turbo since you HAVE to rev the piss out of it.
 

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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88MK3.;1871621 said:
ok well seeing how i am planing on turboing it still be a good idea to do the MAF conversion and cams? or what will be a pointless wast and be usless after the turbo?

Bothering with any kind of conversion is pointless. They send very different signals and require different ecus. Just wait till you do the conversion on the motor and it'll be stupid easy.

If you have a need to do anything now, do chassis stuff that will actually carry over.

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Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
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I did a fair amount of looking into what could be done with an NA car, and cheap isn't in the equation.

Bang for the buck, N2O is it.

Cams might be able to help some, but it's limited if you want to carry them over to a turbo build.

1mm oversized valves can also be carried over, and will help breathe.

High compression pistons will help an NA build, but will hurt a turbo build. If you plan to move to a turbo at all, don't spend money on the NA block, unless you're going to go GE+T, in which case there are still many options, but many of them won't pay off until there's a turbo bolted to the engine.

Even 10 years ago, the cheapest way to 300 HP was to buy a 7M-GTE and start from there.
 

stevenr816

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Poodles;1871620 said:
Because it can rev much higher than a 7M can safely. Not to mention building an NA engine to that degree makes it drive worse than a huge turbo since you HAVE to rev the piss out of it.

Yes this is true. Special light weight everything in the head. And I think that k20 revs to around 13k?


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88MK3.

New Member
well ima be moving soon but right after i move ima get a gte block and hord core build the bottem end and head i no a shop here in houston that will do all the head work and fit it with over sized titanium valves. and ill see bout gettin the some dubble spayed main caps. I use to build chevy v8s so ill get some of the hard core shit i use to do with them done. but i think ill just worie bout finding a EMC first while i work on that