im gonna start rebuilding my 7mgte sometime next week. new bearing pistons, pump and all that jazz.. also MGH and ARP studs.. and machining... after i get everything all together and selaed up.. is there a way to prime the engine with oil so its well covered when i start it?? anyway to turn the oil pump with out the engine cranking?? i know some cars u can turn the oil pump with a drill to prime it.. i dont think u can with a 7mgte but any other tips??
engine rebuild
- Thread starter jon_570
- Start date
Hi,
You can safely remove the EFI fuse. It's located in the fuse box under the hood.
When removed, the engine will crank and oil will go thru the whole system but the car will never ever start.
Make sure to crank for a few seconds, and do it multiple times until you see the oil pressure rise on the gauge.
Don't crank for too long and let the starter cool a little before you crank it again.
As soon as you can see the oil pressure rise you can put the EFI fuse back in and try to fire it up.
Good luck!
You can safely remove the EFI fuse. It's located in the fuse box under the hood.
When removed, the engine will crank and oil will go thru the whole system but the car will never ever start.
Make sure to crank for a few seconds, and do it multiple times until you see the oil pressure rise on the gauge.
Don't crank for too long and let the starter cool a little before you crank it again.
As soon as you can see the oil pressure rise you can put the EFI fuse back in and try to fire it up.
Good luck!
You want to get a socket and ratchet (can't remember the size) and turn the crank over manually from the crank pulley.
19mm
And yes, that's hte way to do it.
I'm planning on seeing if I can spin the oil pump shaft by hand first, get oil up to the top, then hook up the timing belt, prime again by hand until oil is showing up at the time again, then do the crank-over method (by pulling the EFI fuse) until I my oil pressure maxes out.
At that point, check for leaks. No leaks? Let's fire her up!
And yes, that's hte way to do it.
I'm planning on seeing if I can spin the oil pump shaft by hand first, get oil up to the top, then hook up the timing belt, prime again by hand until oil is showing up at the time again, then do the crank-over method (by pulling the EFI fuse) until I my oil pressure maxes out.
At that point, check for leaks. No leaks? Let's fire her up!
Doward;888996 said:19mm
And yes, that's hte way to do it.
I'm planning on seeing if I can spin the oil pump shaft by hand first, get oil up to the top, then hook up the timing belt, prime again by hand until oil is showing up at the time again, then do the crank-over method (by pulling the EFI fuse) until I my oil pressure maxes out.
At that point, check for leaks. No leaks? Let's fire her up!
Man that is really thorough :aigo:
I just cranked it with a wrench for a few minutes, did the efi trick and oil pressure was coming after the 3rd time cranking. When it fired up, i got pressure instantly.
Don't forget new oil squirters, and make sure the rear timing cover is on with the timing belt tensioner before they bore and deck it. (don't overtorque the tensioner either, as it will deflect the #1 cylinder out of round a tiny bit.
don't bother with a wrench it's pointless, this is what assembly lube is for. Remove the efi fuse and crank away with a good battery. After a bit start it up watch the oil press till it goes up then open the oil cap and look in with a light you should see oil going around
on the cam.
on the cam.
I put a socket on the oil pump before I put on the timing belt in, and put the extension into a drill and spun it until oil was shooting out of everywhere.(I forgot to torque the turbo feed, then it came through the stock oil cooler valve.) do that in the stand before you put it back in and check for leaks and it can potentially save you alot of headaches trying to tightening things down once back in the car. then pull the efi fuse before startup.
Its not like a 350 where it can be primed with a drill. Spinning the oil pump shaft or crankshaft by hand won't do anything since you can't spin it fast enough to generate any kind of pressure.
Use a good quality assembly lube and fill the oil filter before installing it. You might consider using Shell Rottela (oil for diesel engines) because of its higher Zinc content for your break in oil.
Use a good quality assembly lube and fill the oil filter before installing it. You might consider using Shell Rottela (oil for diesel engines) because of its higher Zinc content for your break in oil.