engine break in

cowboyfanatic

New Member
Apr 30, 2007
16
0
0
Oklahoma
I've been researching engine break in and have been getting conflicting reports. every other one is saying to break it in hard and fast, or slow and soft. Which is really better?
Thanks for the help!
 

Sl1dewaysSupra

Destroyer of FWD's
Mar 14, 2006
690
0
0
Colorado
The owners manual just goes over the common sence stuff. i.e. Do not race the engine, don't go over 4k rpm's, don't tow anything, don't go above 55 mph etc. For the first 1k miles. I would say take it easy and gradually work your way up.
 

Anth505

Failte
Apr 8, 2007
105
0
0
45
Toronto Ontario
I had my engine built by a pro who was recommended by a very good friend of mine, who himself is a top notch mechanic.

This friend of mine has built 8 second dragsters and blah, blah, blah. Point is, he knows his shit. Currently he has a massively modified jeep....the motor in his jeep was built by the same person who did mine.

Background aside; the hour we had my new engine running my friend and I took it for a ride. I was babying it like it was going to break in half. Then he took it for a spin.

1st gear he floored it till it broke traction at around 5000rpm. 2nd gear broke traction at about 6000rpm and he kept it pinned into third. The whole time this is happenning I'm yelling at him to stop so I can lay a beating on him.

Before I could he said "there, everything should be nicely seated, from this point on break it in gently." Well, that was almost 4 years ago and although I've had issues with my car from time to time, that engine has remained solid.

I did the mhg retorque as recommended, and haven't had a single problem.

I won't say what method is right or wrong here, but that was my experience (long story sorta, I just felt like writing), so take it for what you will. It worked for me.
 

Sl1dewaysSupra

Destroyer of FWD's
Mar 14, 2006
690
0
0
Colorado
^ I think that the method of breaking in the motor would also depend on what was done to the motor. If it was "modded" or a stock rebuild. I suppose if you follow what the builder suggested you should be fine, if not you know who to yell at. LOL.
 

Anth505

Failte
Apr 8, 2007
105
0
0
45
Toronto Ontario
True. I suppose I should list what was done.


All moving parts were replaced

JE Pistons .20 over
Shot peened con rods
Balanced, blueprinted
Ported/Polished head
Port matched Manifold
3 angle valve job
Hks 3mm MHG
ARP head studs (torqued to 98lbs)
ARP con rod bolts
and a shiny new oil pan!!
 

cowboyfanatic

New Member
Apr 30, 2007
16
0
0
Oklahoma
i rebuilt this one myself, and it is pretty much stock. the pistons are .040 though, and it has a cold air intake. but other than that bone stock!
 

DaSuprawolf

Im SICK of N/A
Dec 29, 2005
456
0
0
ChicagoLand
hard acceleration to seat the rings, and hard deceleration to suck everything out. deceleration is very important. thats what ive herd any way, and thats what i did. no problems yet, its only been 5,000 miles tho. and yet to do a compression test.