ELF Oil - what do you guys think

jdub

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ViR2 said:
jdub, I wasnt talking about 50w, it just would be to heavy for normal engine, maybe suitable just for purpoise built circuit engine. I was looking at 10w-60 grade oil, and i dont see why should it be wrong. This grade is used in almost all rally races known to me, also I used to drive in Rally with compleatly built EVO VIII, and had 3 mechanics, all of them demanded only Castrol RS 10w-60 oil.

By the way, 5w-30 grade is non existant in europe (maybe such manufacturers like ELF have them, but Castrol and Mobil1 do not offer such grade).

Do u have any wear scales comparing 5w-50 or 10w-60 to some 5w-30? I would like to see more data before messing with oil ;)


The way a multigrade works is this: For a 10W-60, the 1st number is the viscosity of the oil cold, the 2nd number is the viscosity of the oil at 100 deg C...operating temp for most motors. That's the way the oil is formulated to run...you are running a 60W oil (in this example) when your motor is at operating temp.

I know what a mechanic will tell you...ask him why. Ask him how the oil flows at 5 deg C...then go try it yourself. Put a bottle of 15W-50 in the refrigerator for a few hours and then pour it in a pan...that's how it's going to flow in your engine cold. Try the same thing with a bottle of 0W-30 and watch the difference.

I had this same exact discussion 2 weeks ago in the thread I posted above (post 10 on this thread)...look at posts 80, 83, 85, and 88. You can read it and believe whatever you wish. The problem is on engine start and getting the proper oil film thickness on the bearing journals...the lighter weight oil is far superior in this respect, especially in a tight tolerance motor. Getting proper oil flow to the journals to get the film thickness required is what's important, as is having proper flow to replace the oil on an open bearing like those used on a crank. Film thickness is not superior using an heavy weight oil.

This deserves repeating: What you will find out about oil is there is no simple answer. Wear/friction is determined by the oil used...syn vs. dino, additives, viscosity, hydrodynamic pressure, etc. All I can do is lead you to the information...it's up to you to learn it. I've done quite a bit of research, mostly prompted by JetJock (he knows more about oil than I ever will)...my conclusion is a 15W-50 (or any heavy weight grade) oil is not optimal for the 7M due to the tolerances of the engine on start.

You will have to do your own research if you want to know the truth...mechanics suffer from the same misconception as a lot of people. They were told a heavy weight oil was good...no reason as to why or based on analysis...and it keeps persisting by word of mouth. Like I said, run any oil you want...it's your engine and you can treat it anyway you see fit.
 

ViR2

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I wont argue with you, I'm not into oils that much. But isnt 5w-30 or 5w-40 to liquid for our turbo-charged engines? I mean, hey, turbo spins at extreamly high temp. which makes a lot of heat, and low vicosity oil should get to liquid to maintain proper lubrication if pushing it hard...
What grade would u recomend?
 

jdub

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I'm sorry for sounding short man...I've just argued this so much, that's what I was expecting. My bad.

The same bearing oil film thickness requirements apply to a turbo, the difference is it's a lot hotter. Flow in this case is even more important...the oil both lubricates and keeps the turbo cool. In a 7M motor, the turbo feed line provides plenty of oil to make this happen and it's not in contact with the bearing long enough to degrade the oil. If you want to help your turbo (and motor) get a more efficient oil cooler.

Based on what you posted that's available to you, a 0W-40 full synthetic or a 5W-40. The good thing in Europe (from what I understand) for an oil to be labeled synthetic, it has to be derived from a synthetic base stock...it's not that way here in the US (complete marketing BS here IMO). The reason I recommended the German Castrol is it is one of the few oils here that starts life as a straight syn. Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc are also full synthetic...great oils, but are more expensive too.
 

ViR2

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Thank you for your recomendation, i'll try Castrol RS 0w-40 at next oil change ;) I just hope my engine wont be leaking oil like a broken pipe with that grade :D
 
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jdub

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When synthetics fisrt came out many years ago, there were problems with it degrading seals...that's been solved for a long time now. The thing a synthetic may do however is remove the deposits on the seals...I hope those deposits are not what's keeping your seals from leaking ;)
Using a 40W will minimize that, if it happens at all.
 

bobiseverywhere

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Well

I can say that Wal-Mart, Napa Auto Parts as well as Canadian tire all carry the German Made 0W-30 Castrol Oil. I am just not sure as i do not have any confirmation that it is a true Group IV or not.

I still might just go with Mobil1 which aparently is a Group IV

if not then its going to be red Line or Royal Purple.

what would be better 0W-30 or 0W-50 or 5W-50 (i know the last one is thicker but still say it pours at -34C or was it -43C one of the two.)
 

bobiseverywhere

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Well i Just Ordered some 5W-30 Royal Purple Motor oil

Not the XPR Stuff or Racing oil #21 which is there Racing 5W-30

I know it's not a 0W but it still is in the user manual for the 7M and i think the 2J so i am sure it will be fine on the 1J

i'm just happy because i paid $5.23 USD a Quart where in canada it costs you $12.99 CAD a Quart Such a Rip off

heres there little marketing Garb

Royal Purple Motor Oil is a tough, long life, high performance oil that delivers superior protection and enhanced performance to gasoline and diesel engines. It gains its performance advantages from a blend of synthetic oils plus Royal Purple's proprietary, synthetic Synerlec additive technology.

Synerlec additive technology greatly reduces engine wear, including ring, cylinder and bearing wear. It is extremely tenacious, adheres to engine surfaces and remains after shutdown, which provides protection upon initial startup.

Synerlec explanation

Synthetic oils enable Royal Purple to make superior lubricants, but it is Royal Purple's advanced Synerlec® additive technology that gives its lubricants their amazing performance advantages. Synerlec® additive technology truly is beyond synthetic™.

Synerlec® additive technology forms a tough, slippery, synthetic film on all metal surfaces. This proprietary film significantly improves lubrication: first, by increasing the oil film's thickness, and second, by increasing the oil film's toughness, both of which help to prevent metal-to-metal contact. It displaces moisture from metal surfaces and protects all metals against rust and corrosion. It also fortifies the oil against the detrimental effects of heat, which causes oil to oxidize.
 

bobiseverywhere

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found this about there Racing oils

Racing:

What is the difference between your SAE motor oils and your racing oils?



Royal Purple's motor oils are formulated to provide unparalleled performance and protection and comply with API / ILSAC specifications. Its racing oils vary in viscosity and formulation as compared to the SAE motor oils to provide the greatest performance gains possible without regard to API, SAE and / or ILSAC specifications.
 

jdub

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The German Castrol is a Group IV syn base stock oil. Just got a confirmation of that from JetJock...It's nearly all PAO. The Royal Purple is also very good...the 5W-30 should work well in your 1J.
 

bobiseverywhere

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jdub said:
The German Castrol is a Group IV syn base stock oil. Just got a confirmation of that from JetJock...It's nearly all PAO. The Royal Purple is also very good...the 5W-30 should work well in your 1J.

The Cheapest i found the German made 0W-30 Catrol stuff here for is $8.48CAD a Liter, plus tax. 7.5% Provicial and 6% Federal

i am paying $5.23 for a quart of 5W-30 RP so it's about the same cost after shipping. I will have to pay for tax on this to when it crosses the boarder probably.

I'll let you know what i think of it. I am not an expert but i'll try and compair it to the others i have used in the past. Like

US made Castrol syntec
Mobil1

It will be hard to tell though since both of those i used in the 7M.

An oil cooler is deffinatly on my list of things to get with this 1J