Electronic's staying on after car off

[Disced]

Ok. So I accidently grounded out the positive under the car on the intake mani and a couple things happened..

Sparks shot out.. Fireworks!

And then my electric fans stopped working; and when I turn the ignition off, both the avc-r and s-afc stay on... Which means the ECu is still getting power? So then what in the hell do I do now?

Yes, I know I'm a dumbass for not disconnecting the battery. I completely forgot that the fucking positive cable was relocated under the mani since we put most of it back together in a semi-rushed state.

I was checking fuses but which ones in particular should I check? None of the under dash fuse boxes have covers or panels so...?

 

[tlo86]

Ok. So I accidently grounded out the positive under the car on the intake mani and a couple things happened..

Sparks shot out.. Fireworks!

And then my electric fans stopped working; and when I turn the ignition off, both the avc-r and s-afc stay on... Which means the ECu is still getting power? So then what in the hell do I do now?

Yes, I know I'm a dumbass for not disconnecting the battery. I completely forgot that the fucking positive cable was relocated under the mani since we put most of it back together in a semi-rushed state.

I was checking fuses but which ones in particular should I check? None of the under dash fuse boxes have covers or panels so...?

check main battery fuse.. the big one they sell for 15$ each :x (friend blew his 4 times he ended up stealing the last two)

 

[Mr.PFloyd]

my brothers car did this right after his deck install. could it be the same problem here?

 

[shaeff]

my first guess, although it's just that, a guess, would be to check the ignition switch.

-shaeff

 

[Disced]

Well, when I turn off the ignition, the turbo timer goes out as well as the radio and the lights/accessories. Both the avc-r and afc stay on, which are wired straight to the ECU... Which means that the ECU is still getting power even though it shouldn't be...

 

[jetjock]

The ECU has two sources of power. The first comes directly from the battery (BATT) and is on at all times to maintain memory. The second is through the main EFI relay (+B and +B1), which the ECU itself controls. When you turn on the ignition switch it sends power (IGSW) to the ECU. The ECU then "boots" itself by turning on the main relay (M-REL) and supplying itself power to it's own +B and +B1 terminals. Look at the schematic.

This same self control is what allows the ECU to stay awake long enough to fully open the idle speed control valve after you turn the key off. The ECU then goes to sleep (by dropping out the main relay) and waits for the next ignition switch cycle.

If the main relay is on all the time either it's contacts are welded closed, the IGN 2 portion of the ignition switch is welded closed, some wiring is shorted together somewhere, or the ECU itself is fried. That's all it can be. Based on what you did and the probability of things I mentioned I'll go out on a limb and say the ECU is fried. I'd check the other stuff first though. Course all this is based solely on your description of what's happening.

 

[Disced]

So I unplug the battery, plug the battery back in and the afc and avc-r combo are off. I turn the key to on and all electronics come on and if I turn the key off and turbo timer off, the avc-r and afc will go out. However, when I try to start the car(which won't start, just turns over and over again) and then I turn the ignition/turbo timer off, the avc-r and afc stay on.

More info to maybe better help the situation?

It wouldn't be a hard fix if it was the ecu.. But I'm almost positive it's not since my wiring under the hood is so f'd up...

And plus, my electric fans stopped working too... Damnit

 

[Disced]

The ECU has two sources of power. The first comes directly from the battery (BATT) and is on at all times to maintain memory. The second is through the main EFI relay (+B and +B1), which the ECU itself controls. When you turn on the ignition switch it sends power (IGSW) to the ECU. The ECU then "boots" itself by turning on the main relay (M-REL) and supplying itself power to it's own +B and +B1 terminals. Look at the schematic.

This same self control is what allows the ECU to stay awake long enough to fully open the idle speed control valve after you turn the key off. The ECU then goes to sleep (by dropping out the main relay) and waits for the next ignition switch cycle.

If the main relay is on all the time either it's contacts are welded closed, the IGN 2 portion of the ignition switch is welded closed, some wiring is shorted together somewhere, or the ECU itself is fried. That's all it can be. Based on what you did and the probability of things I mentioned I'll go out on a limb and say the ECU is fried. I'd check the other stuff first though. Course all this is based solely on your description of what's happening.

The 'main relay' can't be swapped out?

Also, if I had a bad ground somewhere, could this cause a similar problem?

 

[Nick M]

By hooking up B+ to ground?

What do you mean bad ground. If you don't have a ground, you can't turn the circuit on. And you said it is on, and won't turn off.

 

[Disced]

By hooking up B+ to ground?

What do you mean bad ground. If you don't have a ground, you can't turn the circuit on. And you said it is on, and won't turn off.

Ahh, I got you.

So then I should ground out B+ and see if they shut off?

 

[Nick M]

Yeah, go ahead and put B+ to ground. Have an extinguisher handy first.

 

[Disced]

Yeah, go ahead and put B+ to ground. Have an extinguisher handy first.

Rofl

So, I swapped out my Main relay from my 87 to my 89, they don't look the same but I plugged that bad boy in, car started up, electronics turned off, and one of my two fans started working... So.. I have to figure out wether a relay for the fan is fried or I just dropped a fan..

BUT, car starts, idles, runs perfect with no ISC/cold start injector after I re-wired the CPS... Most of the wires were split pretty good @ the connectors, so I just snipped 'em and hard wired 'em in..

 

[Nick M]

I am glad you took that as the sarcasm it was. The sparks flying the first time were from a direct ground, or short to ground depending on whose electrical book you are reading.