Crankshaft pulley
- Thread starter tokiMK3
- Start date
did you oil all the internal stuff? it shouldnt be too hard... but remember, its now "1 tokimk3 HP" to the crank. haha
When you say "harder", what exactly do you mean? How much experience of "turning" your crankshaft by hand to you have to compare this to? Keep in mind that the pulley is linked directly to the crankshaft, it's not really supposed to be "easy" to turn.
To answer your question, relative to how hard it was to turn before you did your headgasket job, no it should not be any harder to turn then it was before.
To my knowledge, whether or not your plugs are in the car shouldn't really matter (correct me if I'm wrong), and I think some of the members are assuming that you installed a MHG (you didn't specify), which would require you to disassemble the block and all other parts included, which should then involve the replacement of all main and rod bearings, which would then require the oiling of all the internals, which is EXTREMELY important!! :aigo:
By the way, did you install a composite or metal headgasket?
And lastly, the crank pulley doesn't have to come off just to pull the head does it??
To answer your question, relative to how hard it was to turn before you did your headgasket job, no it should not be any harder to turn then it was before.
To my knowledge, whether or not your plugs are in the car shouldn't really matter (correct me if I'm wrong), and I think some of the members are assuming that you installed a MHG (you didn't specify), which would require you to disassemble the block and all other parts included, which should then involve the replacement of all main and rod bearings, which would then require the oiling of all the internals, which is EXTREMELY important!! :aigo:
By the way, did you install a composite or metal headgasket?
And lastly, the crank pulley doesn't have to come off just to pull the head does it??
First question - is the engine IN the car? or is it OUT of the car?
And the engine is harder to turn with plugs in, because your compressing the air thats in there... its not terribly hard, but its not "smooth as butter."
But if you did rebuild it, and you didn't lubricate the rod bearings, main bearings, thrust washers, piston pins, and cylinder walls, then you'll want to lube them up realllllly good.
and i doubt the TSRM didnt mention oiling the bearings...
And the engine is harder to turn with plugs in, because your compressing the air thats in there... its not terribly hard, but its not "smooth as butter."
But if you did rebuild it, and you didn't lubricate the rod bearings, main bearings, thrust washers, piston pins, and cylinder walls, then you'll want to lube them up realllllly good.
and i doubt the TSRM didnt mention oiling the bearings...
I was just trying to get the obvious out of the way first. Plugs in= fighting compression. You can pull the head with out removing the harmonic balancer but you cant take the lower timing cover off with it on. So its a trade off as to which you prefer; Taking the timing belt off the cam gears with the lower cover on, or breaking loose the nut that is torqued to 195ft lbs. + if your replacing the timing belt as you should you have to take the lower cover off anyways
adicken1;938179 said:
For your own safety do not work on your car :nono:
First, its much easier to turn the engine w/o plugs as you don't have to compress any air when turning
second, its a headgasket, you have no idea what you're talking about. It has NOTHING to do with tearing down the internals
For TOKIMK3:
I hope you resurfaced your head and block...or else...
as far as the crank not turning as well....for one, how long has it been sitting? the engine needs to relube itself
the crank should not be any harder to turn and its probably in your head once the engine has a little oil shoved through it.
If it is very difficult to turn and your timing belt is on, your cams are probably not aligned properly
its still beyond me why you removed the balancer in the first place....
IwantMKIII;938281 said:
Okay, well you show me a block that can be machined with the crank, rods, and bearings still installed, then I'll show you a MHG that can be installed without tearing the engine down. :icon_bigg
I did make an assumption, that being the only reason I could think of him having to turn his cranshaft. That reason being if he had an automatic and wanted to pull the engine only... if that were the case, he would have to turn the crankshaft to get to his torque converter bolts to remove the engine... in which case if it were me, the spark plugs would still be in. -- If that were the case, then like I said before, it should not be harder to turn the crank now then it was then. (If you didn't catch it, the plugs would be in in both cases.) Shouldn't have made that assumption.
You actually asked him the same question I wanted to, its just that I don't intend to make others feel small. Obviously you didn't catch it, but my questions were rhetorical. (That means that it didn't warrant a response.) (warrant means need)Hehe Thanks for your advice though, but now that I've broken it down for you, I'm sure you can see that we were saying the same thing!!! :icon_lol:
Oh, and good point about the timing belt and cams champ. Way to think on your toes. :biglaugh:
And just to prempt, I'm also assuming that if he took the time out to pull the motor to have the block resurfaced, that he also took the time out to properly check his clearances (which would most likely involve having the block machined) and replace all associated bearings, rings, and seals
Just thought I'd help you out champ. :naughty: Would hate for you to make any more unneccessary posts.
You're welcome,
- Andrew
Just thought I'd help you out champ. :naughty: Would hate for you to make any more unneccessary posts.
You're welcome,
- Andrew
adicken1;938297 said:
your right, i jumped the gun on that real quick which is bad on my part sorry...i think its just time to go to bed for me. As far as the cams comment goes, i don't know why you laugh....try turning over the engine when piston is supposed to have the intake valves open but the cam is on the wrong stroke and is closed the duration, not that easy.
the opener needs to post back and answer some of the questions we've given...
and "supposedly" you dont have to surface the block for a cometic HG... but i wouldnt quote me on that...
and "supposedly" you dont have to surface the block for a cometic HG... but i wouldnt quote me on that...
tokiMK3;939948 said:
why do you think you didn't have to?
edit: oh, and please don't repond with, it looked flat or it didn't looked warped at all etc
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