Cost of converting A/C to R134a

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Bumping this as I have another question.

I've read the forums that you linked to in another thread, but I still can't get a clear answer on if a single stage or dual stage vacuum pump.

I'm doing a full rebuild of the A/C system (evap, condenser, expansion valve, dryer, seals, soft lines, and compressor rebuild), and I'm gonna use R134 and report on where I got the parts, and what my success is in the conversion.

Wanna do this once, but I like having the tools to do it myself since my parents just spent $1200 in a compressor replacement (have to look at the invoice, as I'm not sure if the system was just flushed or parts replaced), and I'd be able to do all the work myself now.

I was looking at the two starter kits from ackits.com to get the manifold, book, can tap, leak detector, and vacuum pump.
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
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wasn't there an expansion valve problem? How did everyone address that?

Poodles: I know people who have used the harbor freight one. and that thing is pretty shitty. I think you can get away with a quality single. But i refuse to touch an AC system until i have to. ;)
 

Who

Supramania Contributor
This reply doesn't really cover your question about the vacuum pump type but I think it might be helpful with your project. The pdf file is a TSB (technical service bulletin) from Toyota with specific instructions on retrofitting r12 systems.
 

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jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
A single stage pump will do but aren't there some inexpensive two stagers on ebay? Hell, I know people who evac systems using engine vacuum and get away with it most of the time but I suggest you avoid that ;)

You can "increase" a single stage's ultimate pressure by warming the AC lines/parts with a heat gun or doing the evac with a hot engine. Or purge with N2 after flushing. All you're trying to do is get the water out. The atmosphere will be long gone by 10 torr. All that said, good tools are an investment.

That TSB is OK but I'd flush everything since you're disconnecting it to install HNBR anyway. The procedure also assumes you have an oil injector. Since most people don't you'll have to add the oil before the system is charged. Add the total amount to the compressor when doing that part of the refit.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Yes, there was an expansion valve issue on the 89 models (which I have), so I bought a new one from Toyota. The part number was changed in the EPC to reflect the new design I'm guessing.

The cheap pumps on ebay are made by FJC, and I haven't been able to find much info on them. They do look a lot like a robinair though...
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
2,825
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Sac-Town, NorCal
Poodles;1057713 said:
Yes, there was an expansion valve issue on the 89 models (which I have), so I bought a new one from Toyota. The part number was changed in the EPC to reflect the new design I'm guessing.
Thanks Poodles! :)
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
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jetjock;1050272 said:
I've seen that. It is the same compressor. Standby for the bolt torque...

edit: 19 ft/pounds on the through bolts. The only SST needed is for removing the front seal plate but you can wing it. It's similar to pressing a bearing out. Be sure to lube all gaskets and O rings with compressor oil. That'll be mineral for CFC-12 or PAG or Ester for 134a. 80 cc (or milliliters, same thing) total charge. Flush the rest of the system. Add a new receiver dryer and you should be good to go.

Thanks For those Figures JJ. I'm gonna go through this too. :)
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
Poodles;1057713 said:
Yes, there was an expansion valve issue on the 89 models (which I have), so I bought a new one from Toyota. The part number was changed in the EPC to reflect the new design I'm guessing.

The cheap pumps on ebay are made by FJC, and I haven't been able to find much info on them. They do look a lot like a robinair though...

Robinair is made by OTC here in Minnesota.

FJC is probably a copy. It would probalby work though.

Not sure if JJ stated this but the higher CFM units and/or the two stage units are to evacuate bigger systems OR smaller systems quicker.

As with any other project.

The right tools for the job are essential for a proper job.
 

toycarchic

New Member
Jul 25, 2008
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Fort Worth, Texas
I am in the same boat thinking about refilling the ac even though summers end is near but the shops are giving me a run around time.... 3/4 of them say NOT to convert to 134... but if theres a leak I get to pay double for the r12 which is running an avg of about $65 a lb(?) they say its gonna take 2 +... I have really bad expierience with shops ripping me off and "finding" broken things with big bills that weren't broken when I dropped the car off... Which is y I do almost all my own mechanics now, just have to have some muscle around to help out every now and then......So if anyone has any advice or knows of any good shops in dfw that would be great b/c I don't want to do this myself... not qualified..
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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Tampa
I used the free-loan tool deal at Autozone for a stage one pump and left a vacuum of 30 on my system overnight before trying to refill (which I did not get to finish). I have the manifold/gauge set which reads vacuum now, so we're all set in DFW, if anyone wants to do their retrofit.

Anyways,
I may try again this weekend sometime. I'm in The colony.