Code 12 - 1JZGTE swap MA70
- Thread starter 87supramario
- Start date
Changed the crank positioning sensor and still no start. After cranking, I have opened the throttle body and smelt fuel in the intake manifold. Seems to be firing injectors but no spark.
Can someone describe to me how exactly do I ground my coils?
I appreciate the help. The annual Supra meet is on the 14th of August and fast approaching. Attending it with my car is my only wish for this entire year.
Can someone describe to me how exactly do I ground my coils?
I appreciate the help. The annual Supra meet is on the 14th of August and fast approaching. Attending it with my car is my only wish for this entire year.
f00g00;2053732 said:
Yes but only everything that was related to the codes, including the injectors and coils. Fed 12V through all wires to double check the harness and everything checked up fine.
super.secret.supra.club;2053735 said:
Actually I believe it does not have metal to metal contact. The bracket bolt counts as a ground source? I'll have to double check hopefully tonight.
just for the sake of testing run a wire from the negative side of the battery to the body/housing of the ignitor
I've had this argument before... but on the supra 1jz harness at least, the igniter is grounded through the harness itself. The car will run with the igniter hanging in the air. Hell, there's a youtube video of it.
If your harness ground is damaged somehow, that's another story.
If your harness ground is damaged somehow, that's another story.
Can confirm, the JZ igniter does not need to be bolted down to function, it is not grounded through the case.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks guys. I did try it yesterday with the expected results. I might return to the car tomorrow and I will check the ground wires on the harness. But to make this quick can't I remove my main Negative ground wire from the battery and switch it to the Positive terminal, with the ignition switched off and the ECU unplugged, to quickly check if I discover voltage at the harness's ground pins at the ECU plugs with a volt meter?
Ok I will unplug the ECU, unbolt all the harness ground wires that I know of, send voltage through each to determine which ECU pin they are for and check list them to see if I am missing any other ground points from the ECU pin out list. During the swap I did ground every ring terminal wire that I've found but I did not check to see if any ground wires where missing. I should be at it this afternoon. 
try using the continuity test function with audio on your multimeter, it makes it much easier. I went through this when I first did my swap (ended up being the polarity on one of the cam sensor plugs). You can leave it at one end hooked up and extend the other lead with some wire and just listen for the beep. I went through all the wires required to start the car (cam,crank,o2,map,etc), it's not so bad, couple hours at most.
I had a code 12 some of the time due to invisibly-bad ECU capacitors in my JZX90 ECU. (they were bad but didn't look bad)
I had a lot of other symptoms too, though, like sometimes the code reading didn't do anything at all.
Just one anecdote but maybe it'll help you.
I had a lot of other symptoms too, though, like sometimes the code reading didn't do anything at all.
Just one anecdote but maybe it'll help you.
Dirosa hit it right on the head. I had my harness for my MK3 Supra 1JZ-GTE Non-VVTI swap built by the guys from Tweak'd Performance, who did an amazing job by the way. Except for one thing. The harness came and I had the same issues no spark but got fuel and it cranked over. After about 3 hours of diagnostics I found using my multi meter and continuity with audio function. That the positive lead for the front cam sensor and crank sensor had been switched at the connector to the ECU. I simply depinned the ECU Plug very carefully and switched the two wires back to where they should be and boom bob's your uncle had a running JZ.
On a side note. it is correct that the igniter for the 1jz does not need a ground. It has its own ground in the four pin plug.
Feel free to contact me on any questions regarding 7M or 1JZ issues. I think I have solved them all through my two cars at some point
On a side note. it is correct that the igniter for the 1jz does not need a ground. It has its own ground in the four pin plug.
Feel free to contact me on any questions regarding 7M or 1JZ issues. I think I have solved them all through my two cars at some point
Well I'm not sure what dial is for test function but I did find another way. I took aluminum foil and folded small pieces in to thin long rectangles to fit in to the sockets of each pin, shoved them in there and clipped the male and female clips back together (to complete the circuit) and attached the volt meter to the foils with the setting to volts. Only while the engine was turning over, I was getting 0.01v, which tells me enough that signal is flowing while the star wheel and sensor is fine. I couldn't continue to attack the cam sensors with this method because of the weather but I will get back to it hopefully tomorrow. From the cams, I will then attack the signals going to the igniter and double check a fuel injector, then check from igniter to coils to see if it just isn't both of my igniters being faulty.
Dirosa, I have not checked to see if polarity was correct but you did shine light on a potential problem, as someone else extended the harness and the colour theme at the ECU connector would still be factory. I will unplug each sensor and run 12v through each wire to the unplugged ECU to see if the wires are at their correct pins and not vise versa. Thanks again!
miekedmr, I sure hope it is not the case haha. I did borrow another ECU that I use to own, that I've sold with another engine swap that I had tested by another member here to try and help him solve a problem of his own, and that ECU checked up fine. Hopefully this other one I am running isn't what you had described.
Motorider9911, I have never heard of that method or that kind of setting, nor do I know if I have it but I will try the long way and send 12v from the sensor harness connector to the unplugged ECU to see what pin it's going to on the other end. Somewhere in my gigantic family tree I better have a uncle name bob ffs!
Question - would a Stinger ECU be able to diagnose a problem as if it were a OBD2 or better? Just curious. My brother had brought this up, meanwhile I use to own one but I am interested in grabbing another in the future for upgrades.
Dirosa, I have not checked to see if polarity was correct but you did shine light on a potential problem, as someone else extended the harness and the colour theme at the ECU connector would still be factory. I will unplug each sensor and run 12v through each wire to the unplugged ECU to see if the wires are at their correct pins and not vise versa. Thanks again!
miekedmr, I sure hope it is not the case haha. I did borrow another ECU that I use to own, that I've sold with another engine swap that I had tested by another member here to try and help him solve a problem of his own, and that ECU checked up fine. Hopefully this other one I am running isn't what you had described.
Motorider9911, I have never heard of that method or that kind of setting, nor do I know if I have it but I will try the long way and send 12v from the sensor harness connector to the unplugged ECU to see what pin it's going to on the other end.
Somewhere in my gigantic family tree I better have a uncle name bob ffs! Question - would a Stinger ECU be able to diagnose a problem as if it were a OBD2 or better? Just curious. My brother had brought this up, meanwhile I use to own one but I am interested in grabbing another in the future for upgrades.
Ok so here is a major issue found. At the ECU plugs I was using a aluminum foil to monitor signals running to and from the ECU and cam sensors and I had discovered BOTH of them where not providing signal (0.00v). So right away I popped off my valve covers and discovered the exhaust camshaft on the intake side and the intake camshaft on the exhaust side!::dead horse::
Hopefully the bearing caps are not warn out, as each of them are in the right place. I will be purchasing a torque wrench today, being my day off and I will see what she does reacts with added cam positioning sensors.
Hopefully the bearing caps are not warn out, as each of them are in the right place. I will be purchasing a torque wrench today, being my day off and I will see what she does reacts with added cam positioning sensors.
Aha! I wouldn't blame you! But now the car would chuckle in hesitation to start. I'm thinking some injectors are stuck closed and/or open, as I suspect fuel is being dumped in few cylinders. I'll check them tomorrow after work and I do have spare 1JZ injectors. Code 12 is gone but code 21 remains, as I don't have a threaded o2 sensor yet. I also have to replace some rear studs because I broke one while trying to replace my wheels. Coolent isn't added yet, tranny fluid need to be topped off, brakes and clutch need bleeding and I need only two more couplers to complete the HKS intercooler kit. It isn't looking too good at this point. I mean if it ran today, I would have called in sick for tomorrow and have everything done while stores are open. I can always hitch a ride with one of my local Supra friends! Already spoke to one about it, so that's plan B lol. Are you still attending this year?