Changing out an oil pump

[jdub]

You really don't know what oil you're using or the filter do you? As long as you're keeping it changed, that's really not that big a deal. Unless, you're using an oil that's too high a weight for cold weather. You really need to pay attention on oil weight, it does have an impact on pressure. If you have a lot of miles on this motor, a ?W-40 oil is likely what you'll need to keep oil pressure where it should be.

I highly suggest you get into the habit of checking the oil level at least every week. The 7M does not tolerate low oil for very long...a leading cause of rod knock in this motor

 

[thechori]

You really don't know what oil you're using or the filter do you? As long as you're keeping it changed, that's really not that big a deal. Unless, you're using an oil that's too high a weight for cold weather. You really need to pay attention on oil weight, it does have an impact on pressure. If you have a lot of miles on this motor, a ?W-40 oil is likely what you'll need to keep oil pressure where it should be.

I highly suggest you get into the habit of checking the oil level at least every week. The 7M does not tolerate low oil for very long...a leading cause of rod knock in this motor

yea..i don't know much about the oil, i've never even changed it myself :\

the engine SAYS it has 99k miles on it, not too much, is that enough to use the 40? or should i go a little lower

 

[jdub]

yea..i don't know much about the oil, i've never even changed it myself :\

the engine SAYS it has 99k miles on it, not too much, is that enough to use the 40? or should i go a little lower

What's your oil pressure at 3000 rpm?

 

[thechori]

What's your oil pressure at 3000 rpm?

the gauge shows around 40 psi right at 3000rpm

 

[Kai]

40psi at 3000rpm sounds about right to me....

 

[jdub]

the gauge shows around 40 psi right at 3000rpm

That's perfect

Now, find out what weight oil the place you used to change it put in...use that weight. The only thing you might consider is going to a 5W on the 1st number. And I would use a Wix, PureOne, or NAPA Gold (made by Wix) filter. Do it on the next change.

 

[trydrew]

the gauge shows around 40 psi right at 3000rpm

That is right as long as that is when it is at operating temps.

 

[jetjock]

and I would never use 0w-30 or 5w-30 oil in a 7M. Too thin. The bearing clearances in these engines are larger than the newer cars. 10w-30 or 10w-40 is the thinnest to use.

Tsk tsk mrnickleye. That's downright painful to hear coming from a long time professional mechanic.

A 0-30 or a 5-30 would both be a 30W when hot and they'd both be a lot thicker than a 30 or 40 when cold so how could that hurt the engine? The 0 wouldn't be as thick as the 5 but they'd both be a hell of a lot thicker than when they're a 30 or 40 after heating up. Based on that I fail to see the problem. And someone had better tell my engine not to run a 0-30 because that's what I've used for years. What is it with people thinking oil thickens as it heats? Is that why you're supposed to change it hot?

The problem is the lower number. People think because it's less than the higher number the oil is thinner there. Nothing could be further from the truth. The 10W in a 10-40 is not the "weight" of the oil when cold. Learning that is oil 101, about as basic as you can get.

 

[trydrew]

Tsk tsk mrnickleye. That's downright painful to hear coming from a long time professional mechanic.

A 0-30 or a 5-30 would both be a 30W when hot and they'd both be a lot thicker than a 30 or 40 when cold so how could that hurt the engine? The 0 wouldn't be as thick as the 5 but they'd both be a hell of a lot thicker than when they're a 30 or 40 after heating up. Based on that I fail to see the problem. And someone had better tell my engine not to run a 0-30 because that's what I've used for years. What is it with people thinking oil thickens as it heats? Is that why you're supposed to change it hot?

The problem is the lower number. People think because it's less than the higher number the oil is thinner there. Nothing could be further from the truth. The 10W in a 10-40 is not the "weight" of the oil when cold. Learning that is oil 101, about as basic as you can get.

Wow.. Since when did you... oh never mind, just listen to ^him^ everyone.

 

[supra90turbo]

yay for jetjock! tribology is this man's forte. listen up!

 

[bo3232000]

I agree also with jetjock completely,and i am a driveline builder for 16 years and always use Rotella 15-40 after break in with nd 30.....The way i see it if my dads 47 pieces of equipment run this oil which is special for diesels(If its good in extreme applications then wtfn for a turbo car) all day for the past 5 to 15 years that he has owned them with the turboes screaming mad shit all day it is wonderful for turbo vehicles or any for that matter..Rotella has almost no build up,soot,coking,or basically its nice to do an inframe on one of our loaders and its clean enough to eat off of inside the engine.
I have 38 full builds as as this date with one failure due to the stupid ass kid who just couldnt let it warm up before runnin the shit outta his civic....All engines built to date except 6 i have personally wrenched on and inspected...

Turbo Dave and mainstream performance are witness to my knowledge.....

Sorry for the oil rant but i believe in lucas for assembly lube and Rotella for a good centered oil for all climates above 10 degrees F.......

If you are building 10 at idle you are doing very well with probley a healthly bottom end....

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

most likely excessive wear on crank and bearings, not the oil pump if it is infact low.

What is your oil pressure @ idle?
What is it @ and above 3000RPM?
Also, what type of gauge are you using to check the pressure?

sorry for thread hijack... but my oil pressure never goes over 38 ish psi even way up in the rpm range...

motor has 18k miles on the bottom end (jdm engine)

should i change the pump, or just re-build the bottom end?

is there anything i can inspect in the pump? (will have pan off soon to do oil pan gakset)

 

[jdub]

sorry for thread hijack... but my oil pressure never goes over 38 ish psi even way up in the rpm range...

motor has 18k miles on the bottom end (jdm engine)

should i change the pump, or just re-build the bottom end?

is there anything i can inspect in the pump? (will have pan off soon to do oil pan gakset)

Dallas - It's likely not the oil pump...if anything, maybe a little bit of wear on the bearings. You could check the bearing clearances with a plasti gauge for peace of mind (assuming you're pulling the motor).

If you want a little more pressure (and really, yours isn't bad), shim the relief valve on the pump 1-2mm (about 2 washers) and make sure you use washers...you need to have a hole in the middle. Two will give you 5-10 psi additional pressure.

 

[Insidious Surmiser]

thanks for the tip... being in college sucks... ... i'll see what i can pull off