The engine is already back together, the head is on and torqued down, manifolds are on, etc. Just need to finish the intake side and the wiring harness and make sure the timing is right then reinstall the radiator and such.
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
I have a question, in the TSRM it shows that the cams should be angled away from each other at about a 45 degree angle, the 2 holes with a pin sticking out on the end of the cam points away from each other like the exhaust cam points toward the passenger fender and the intake cam points toward the driver side fender but at a 45 degree angle. Should I put the timing belt on while they are like this or do I have to put them on so they line up with the notch on the timing belt cover and force open some valves as I tighten it down?
I looked at the timing belt section in the TSRM and it says to put it on when the cams line up with the notches and I followed that then after putting the belt on and tightening it I spun the crank and it lined up again when I stopped.
I looked at the timing belt section in the TSRM and it says to put it on when the cams line up with the notches and I followed that then after putting the belt on and tightening it I spun the crank and it lined up again when I stopped.
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Put the timing belt on with the crank at TDC and the cam gear marks aligned with the engine cover.
At #1 TDC, #6 will also be at TDC. #2 and #5 will be 120 deg BTDC, #3 and #4 will be 240 deg BTDC.
#1 should have all valves closed (Start of ignition stroke)
#2 should have exhaust valves open (Near beginning of exhaust stroke)
#3 should have intake valves open (Near end of intake stroke)
#4 should have all valves closed (Near end of ignition stroke)
#5 should have all valves closed (Near beginning of compression stroke)
#6 should have exhaust and/or intake valves slightly open (Start of intake stroke)
The 7M is non-interference, so it should be okay, but I still get paranoid and put #1/#6 at 60 deg BTDC. #2/#5 then are at BDC, and #3/#4 are then 300 deg BTDC. No way for the valves to get anywhere near the pistons, then. Rotate the cams into position, then rotate the crank to #1 TDC. that way no piston is at TDC when the cams aren't prepared for it. This works with interference engines.
At #1 TDC, #6 will also be at TDC. #2 and #5 will be 120 deg BTDC, #3 and #4 will be 240 deg BTDC.
#1 should have all valves closed (Start of ignition stroke)
#2 should have exhaust valves open (Near beginning of exhaust stroke)
#3 should have intake valves open (Near end of intake stroke)
#4 should have all valves closed (Near end of ignition stroke)
#5 should have all valves closed (Near beginning of compression stroke)
#6 should have exhaust and/or intake valves slightly open (Start of intake stroke)
The 7M is non-interference, so it should be okay, but I still get paranoid and put #1/#6 at 60 deg BTDC. #2/#5 then are at BDC, and #3/#4 are then 300 deg BTDC. No way for the valves to get anywhere near the pistons, then. Rotate the cams into position, then rotate the crank to #1 TDC. that way no piston is at TDC when the cams aren't prepared for it. This works with interference engines.
I put everything at TDC, the crank and cams, then put the belt on and checked it again then did a rotation and it cam back to all at TDC, so I think I am good to go. I am thinking about leaving the timing belt cover off until I start the motor and see how it runs that way it will be easier to adjust it again. To time it I adjust the CPS right? Do I turn it while the motor is on and and keep in place when it gets to running smoothly or do I have to turn the motor off, adjust, start it and check?
yes you adjust the cps, and yes you adjust it while the car is running, using a timing light. it is basically just slightly loosening the holding bolt and then rotating the cps unit to adjust the timing. would be kind of a pain to have to turn the car on and off over and over. 
dont forget to jumper TE1 and E1!
dont forget to jumper TE1 and E1!
Use a paperclip or any piece of wire to jump em. And it basically prevents your ecu from automatically advancing or retarding the timing when you're trying to set it.Doat;1861646 said:
Okay, I just walked up to my car today and saw that the notches on the cams gears are slightly off to the left of the notch on the timing cover and somehow the damn tensioner bolt didn't want to bite on the socket so it stripped a tiny bit. I will try to get a file and edge up the bolt.
Well tonight I decided not to mess with the timing belt and to work on the wiring harness as much as I could. Made good progress with the wiring harness, replaced the O rings on the injectors, cleaned up the fuel rail, installed them, connected the harness connectors to the injectors, connected the hard fuel line, replaced some vacuum lines and connected the right ones to the the EGR valve and such, knock sensors, starter, cleaned up the gasket surfaces on the throttle body. I am done for tonight but I am going to look through the TSRM some more to find out where to connect those two little air filters and after that it's smooth sailing and should have the car ready to fire up before the weekend if all goes well.
I just found the vacuum diagram in the TSRM, tomorrow it is going down lol.
I just found the vacuum diagram in the TSRM, tomorrow it is going down lol.
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Awesome job bro. I'm excited to see the finished product! You definitely need to post a first start video once she is all done!
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Sent from my G2x using Tapatalk 2
Oh I will get a video for sure. After I am done I am going to roll the car out of the garage, flush it once with oil, then put in good oil with a decent filter, start it up and record it, drive around for awhile, then change the oil to like Rotella or Mobil1 but I hear Rotella is really good and cleans the motor well. What oil would you guys recommend for me? I don't plan on doing anything crazy with the car, don't push it often, 81k miles, I want to clean it out and take care of it and I hear Rotella is great for that as I said earlier but what oil do 7Ms love?
Also I live in Houston, it rarely gets below 50 here 98% of the time it's 70+ and during the summer, now, it's over 100+
Also I live in Houston, it rarely gets below 50 here 98% of the time it's 70+ and during the summer, now, it's over 100+
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Thank you kindly, I must say I am proud of myself I am very close to getting this car done I am almost at the point where I just have to wait to get the spark plugs, wires, thermostat, and that small 90 degree coolant hose by the exhaust manifold before I can get back to work lol. I went from doing oil changes and basic maintenance work for the family cars to tearing a motor apart in the garage and a 7M no less lol.
I can't seem to figure out where these two hoses go, they are underneath the intake manifold.
If anyone can give me sort of real time help through AIM or facebook I would greatly appreciate it.
EDIT: They are throttle body coolant lines
If anyone can give me sort of real time help through AIM or facebook I would greatly appreciate it.
EDIT: They are throttle body coolant lines
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1 lines goes to the Idle Control valve and 1 to the throttle body, glad I found the page in the TSRM. Here is where I left off, I am so close I can hear that blow off valve fluttering again.
Yea they go through the intake manifold as I suspected and the one toward the front of the car connects to the idle control valve and the one toward the fire wall connects to the throttle body. I must have shoved them down under the intake when I was removing everything, I appreciate you going out and taking the pic though.