I've been having a problem with my supra for sometime now. It starts up fine when its cold but when I start it up when the car is warm it will idle poorly, want to die, and has a lack of power. After I drive it around a bit, the problem will lessen. The car almost always has no bottom end power but when I hit around 4k rpm, the car pulls great. It started on my factory engine and after replacing the engine, the same problem existed. I've replaced the dist, plugs, and tested numerous items: coil, wires, afm, lots of sensors, etc. anyone ever have similar problems? suggestions?
Can't figure it out...
- Thread starter Linkstar07
- Start date
Iirc, isn't the intake air temp. sensor part of the AFM? I saw a post recently where someone else only had a prob. with their AFM when the car was at operating temp. you might try testing the AFM with the car warmed up to see if it makes a difference.
^^^Hi
EDIT: I had a similar issue, when the AFM reached a certain temp continuity was heavily impeded. The car would idle, but nothing more until the engine bay had cooled for a significant period of time. The only way I found it was by using a hairdryer to heat the usual suspect components until the AFM failed while testing. Odd way of testing, yes... but it makes a hell of a lot of sense.
EDIT: I had a similar issue, when the AFM reached a certain temp continuity was heavily impeded. The car would idle, but nothing more until the engine bay had cooled for a significant period of time. The only way I found it was by using a hairdryer to heat the usual suspect components until the AFM failed while testing. Odd way of testing, yes... but it makes a hell of a lot of sense.
lol, couldn't remember if that was you or not. Thanks for the testing tip, by the way, used it at work the other day to test a diff. car with similar symptoms.
cuel said:
hehe, glad I could be of... inspiration? lol
Yeah, I realized the heat was related, but I couldn't get the car hot enough for the offending part to fail and still get to the garage before it cooled. So, did you get the same kind of amusing looks I did? What color was the hairdryer? I used my wife's, it's pink, with sparkles. :biglaugh:
lol, didn't have a hair dryer, had to improvise and use a heat gun. Yeah, my boss thought I was crazy... till it worked.
I got the idea while using a heat gun to form some acrylic... I figured it might be just a bit hotter than I wanted. Glad to hear it worked though.
Linkstar, seriously try testing the AFM when it's hot. Going by the codes it'd be my first suspect.
Linkstar, seriously try testing the AFM when it's hot. Going by the codes it'd be my first suspect.
I'll give that a try. I used a hairdryer to get my old pinstriping off, got some looks. I've gotten suggestions of possible leaky fuel injectors. Should I look into that, too?
You can get the rubber grommets for the tips of the injectors for $3.50 From your local dealership. They should have them in stock.
I guess I was thinking something else with the other post. sorry.
I guess I was thinking something else with the other post. sorry.
The rubber grommets are new. I replaced them when I rebuilt engine. but I was referring to injectors possibly leaking into the cylinder(s).
The only way an injector will leak like that is if its stuck open. An easy way to check for that would be to pull the spark plugs and see wich one's badly fouled with unburnt fuel.
I think I made an improvement. I originally stated that the car pulls great after 4k rpm. I check my vac hose setup and it was completely wrong. the AICV(I think its called) had no source of vac at all. also, someone had removed the vac canister and I'm pretty sure the vac to the fuel press reg was not set up correctly. Car runs quite a bit better. I'll keep you updated if it solves it.
Alright, the AICV didnt solve all. I tested the AFM again and took readings while cold and as hot as I could with a turbo(slang for hairdryer...) Everything checked out fine there. But when I measured the resistance while opening the AFM door it showed almost no pattern from shut to open. the TSRM said 20-1200ish ohms and I just seemed to get eratic readings. is the resistance supposed to increase or decrease as the door opens? what are some normal readings? I wish my car ran like it used to....
How much are new AFM's???
I bet they are NOT inexpensive.
But sounds like that may be your' problem.
I may know of someone that has a used one, and knows it works.
PM me.
I bet they are NOT inexpensive.
But sounds like that may be your' problem.
I may know of someone that has a used one, and knows it works.
PM me.