Burnt Oil Smell??

[jgcable]

You guys have steered me right everytime so far. I need your help again.
Here is the breif details
1987 NA Supra
I just did the head gasket. I used new head bolts, I retorqued after 7 heat cycles, I also did the water pump, all new gaskets, valve stem seals, injector o-rings and cushions, timing belt. I have put about 250 miles on the car since I repaired it. The oil is spotlessly clean and the coolant is perfect. The car runs like an absolute champ.
I have done a few 60+ miles trips with it with no problems at all. It really runs fantastic. I drive 3 miles back and forth to the train station daily. What I notice lately is a burnt oil smell after driving it that short distance.
It smells like its coming from the bottom of the car under the driverside door.
I thoroughly checked the engine compartment and there are no leaks or drips anywhere. There are no wet spots under the car. The only part of the car that I noticed was wet is around the tranny pan. It has always been like this since I owned the car. It doesn't appear to be dripping onto the exhaust and it smells like oil burning. Its the same smell you would get if you spilled some oil on the exhaust manifold and it burned off.
Its definately not coming from the top of the motor. When I rebuilt it I detailed everything so its REALLY clean. If it was leaking somewhere it would be very easy to spot.
Any ideas??

 

[tlo86]

did you replace the rear main?

 

[jgcable]

did you replace the rear main?

No, I didn't remove the motor. I only had to do the head gasket so I did some other things too.
If the rear main seal was going wouldn't it drip? There aren't any spots on the ground. The only wetness is tranny fluid that I believe is a result of a tranny pan leak.
Just curious.. I would have to pull the tranny to do the rear main seal... right?

 

[tlo86]

yeah it would drip, and yes you would

check your exhaust pipe and see if any fluid is dripping on to it, look for signs of cooked off trans fluid it might be that burning (my car did this and it was an easy fix)

 

[jgcable]

yeah it would drip, and yes you would

check your exhaust pipe and see if any fluid is dripping on to it, look for signs of cooked off trans fluid it might be that burning (my car did this and it was an easy fix)

thanks... I'll check it out.

 

[Bill UK]

May be worth checking the exhaust manifold heat shield at the front for any signs of oil leaking from the distributor o-ring.

 

[jgcable]

update.. so far I can't find a single oil leak. If I drive the car 3 miles to the train station I can smell a burnt oil smell. If the car is driven longer than that the smell goes away.
It smells like it is coming from the drivers side of the car.

 

[jgcable]

Update 2. I found a small leak at the heater control valve. It was dripping down the firewall and onto the tranny and then down to the inspection cover where the drips would splash against the exhaust pipe. I tightened the hose at the heater control valve and it doesn't leak anymore. I can still smell the burnt smell though. I am thinking maybe its residual antifreeze mixing with some oil sludge from the back of the motor and creating a cocktail. At least I hope thats it. Still running great with no leaks of any kind.
I replaced all the belts on Tuesday night. Alternator, serpantine and power steering.

 

[jdub]

Check for a leak at the distributor as suggested.

Look at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover...you might have a small leak at the front main or oil pump driveshaft seal. Cam seals too (I know you replaced them...right?).

Check your power steering lines and reservoir...I've seen the reservoir leak from a poor seal around the top piece (it's pressed on) or the cap.

 

[cuel]

Did you use rtv under the head gasket where the block and lower timing cover meets? There's two little spots detailed here. First pic. "Apply seal packing to the two locations shown."(click the yellow letters)

Also, check the oil pan bolts and see if any of them are loose. They only need to be snug, as they're a small bolt. If you can't move them easily, then they're tight. For the rear main, if it's leaking, sometimes you can look up at it with a flash light and a mirror(engine off, of course) through the inspection cover. You'll see oil trace coming down from it, and some oil on the flywheel.

 

[jgcable]

Did you use rtv under the head gasket where the block and lower timing cover meets? There's two little spots detailed here. First pic. "Apply seal packing to the two locations shown."(click the yellow letters)

Also, check the oil pan bolts and see if any of them are loose. They only need to be snug, as they're a small bolt. If you can't move them easily, then they're tight. For the rear main, if it's leaking, sometimes you can look up at it with a flash light and a mirror(engine off, of course) through the inspection cover. You'll see oil trace coming down from it, and some oil on the flywheel.

Yea, I used RTV in those spots and I copper sprayed both sides of the gasket. I'll take a look at the oil pan today.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Yea, I used RTV in those spots and I copper sprayed both sides of the gasket. I'll take a look at the oil pan today.

If it was a stock headgasket I don't think you should have used copper spray, not that that's your problem.

 

[jdub]

Copper spray on a stock HG is fine...in fact, I would use it everytime to help seal imperfections on the head/block decks. It's a new MHG you don't want to use the spray.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Copper spray on a stock HG is fine...in fact, I would use it everytime to help seal imperfections on the head/block decks. It's a new MHG you don't want to use the spray.

Thanks for the correction Jdub. I knew about the MHG just thought the stock HG has enough sealant to take care of the small imperfections, thought I had read somewere here not to use copper on the stock one.

 

[jgcable]

May be worth checking the exhaust manifold heat shield at the front for any signs of oil leaking from the distributor o-ring.

That is exactly where it is leaking. How do I fix it? Do I need gasket sealer around the flange or is it just the o-ring that seals it?

 

[jdub]

It's the o-ring inside...just make sure you mark the position of the rotor when you pull it. You can cut a gasket from material available at most parts stores and add to the outside flange for added seal if you like.

 

[Bill UK]

Just an O ring Toyota part # is 90099-14018 you will need to check your timing after installing the distributor. This may help Link and the pic below.

 

[Bill UK]

Just out of interest: the gear on the end of the distributor or CPS meshes with the exhaust camshaft helical gear, but what does the large fluted section do that looks like a gear? Is it machined that way for an oil pathway?

 

[Poodles]

Doesn't mesh with anything, never really knew why it was make that way, but the oil pathway sounds about right as the o-ring would dry up without it...

 

[3p141592654]

The flutes allow near zero clearance in the bore without it getting stuck. It needs to be tight to ensure accurate gear mesh clearances are maintained.