honestly at this point $12 seems like it would be worth it, but cutting and reending the line is simple with a flaring tool. My autozone does rent one, but that can vary from store to store
"Blocked off" brake line
- Thread starter moonburn
- Start date
@ Chaingun: I agree. I was very confident that I would be able to blow the nail out the same way I did with the other line, but sadly that's not the case. Do you think I would be able to re-flare the line without pulling it? If not, I might as well replace it.
If you ordered this on the 22nd, you'd likely have it by now. Just verify with your dealer that this is the correct line. You've probably spent close to that price messing around with it.
supra90turbo;1677782 said:
flaring depends on how accessable that end is since you have it out far enough to get a pic i'd say that you'd have no problems at all. However being a front brake line you may consider the replacemtn option as it's guaranteed to fit correctly, and not leak.
supra90turbo;1679478 said:
Yes, you're right. I just had to try though. I've spent a total of $14 messing around, so still not too bad. Replacing it does seem to be the way to go.
EDIT: I just called around looking for it, but it came up as $36 and the part has been discontinued. The two dealers I called said there aren't any in NC or SC. Where did you find it?
Last edited:
I didn't mean to push the issue, but it was worth a shot. However,that's interesting. As I said before, it was a while ago that I bought all the lines for the non-abs conversion, but they were all available at that time. I didn't check availability though, so it's very possible that most of the ABS and even Non-ABS lines are discontinued.
In that case, someone should have an ABS parts car that can send you that line or I would just make one like others have suggested. You may even be able to cut a small portion off the end of your line, remove the nail, and re-flare it. You will lose less than an inch and should be able to make that up easily.
In that case, someone should have an ABS parts car that can send you that line or I would just make one like others have suggested. You may even be able to cut a small portion off the end of your line, remove the nail, and re-flare it. You will lose less than an inch and should be able to make that up easily.
So I re-bent the line I bought yesterday and hooked it up in place of the old line. Bled the front brakes with ease and should be test driving tonight or tomorrow AM! I haven't properly routed everything yet, but will once I get some more time. Feel like a tool for going through all that effort to avoid replacing it, but it is what it is.
Thanks everyone for all of your advice (and tolerating my laziness)!
Thanks everyone for all of your advice (and tolerating my laziness)!
Poodles;1679626 said:
I have no f'ing clue. The guy said it was because the front brakes were dragging, but they were dragging because the dumbass rattle-canned the calipers while they were still on. Paint got inside and froze the piston. They really went to town with the red paint on this car. Belts, radiator hoses, etc. All painted in place. :3d_frown: That's the only reason I can gather.
I guess I'll find out if I really fixed them when I get around to taking it for a test spin, but there are still parts all over the garage as I went kind of ADD while I was waiting on parts, etc. Shit was all tied on with wire or not secured at all, so the front half of the car sounded like it was about to shake itself apart under any kind of boost! I've been going through the bay bolting stuff down where I can and generally cleaning house. It may look like an actual machine soon!
So I got the car all put back together yesterday and took it for a spin around the block... WOW! It's amazing how much better the car feels with a full set of brakes! I don't feel like I'm driving a battering ram! However, there were still a few issues:
1) The brakes would grab and not let go when I had it on the jackstands. I didn't notice so much when I was driving, but I could hear what sounded like dragging.
2) The pedal held firm while the car was off, but there was a very pronounced fade in pedal pressure after a few seconds while the engine was running.
Any ideas? Sounds like it might be a bad master cyl to me, but I was wondering if anyone else has any ideas?
1) The brakes would grab and not let go when I had it on the jackstands. I didn't notice so much when I was driving, but I could hear what sounded like dragging.
2) The pedal held firm while the car was off, but there was a very pronounced fade in pedal pressure after a few seconds while the engine was running.
Any ideas? Sounds like it might be a bad master cyl to me, but I was wondering if anyone else has any ideas?
Could be bad master cylinder. Could be air in there somewhere. It takes a while to get the air out from the whole system.
If master cyl is bad, putting hard pressure on pedal and holding it may show the pedal slowly going down (but not always) When engine is running you are getting vacuum to the brake booster which amplifies pedal pressure, so the pedal will seem softer. I agree with keep bleeding. Start with the brake farthest from the master cyl, then the next, etc. For left hand steering wheel cars this should mean, bleed right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front, and NEVER let the master cylinder run out of fluid or you must start all over. PS: when I don't have a helper to pump the pedal, I pump it up good, then open a bleed screw and let the fluid run until I am sure no more air bubbles are coming out, shut it off, pump again and open bleeder just slightly to make sure no more air, shut it and go to next bleeder. Works for me.
While that is acceptable to get tough air bubbles out, I was always taught that surge bleeding should only be used after the brakes have been bled. My personal favorite (Because I too am lazy) is to gravity bleed. Open all the bleeders, fill the master cylinder, and let physics do the rest. Its worked on every car I've owned, but I have heard of it not working on some cars.rustfarmer;1682164 said:
-AM3
I've gotta work and then launch into papers this weekend, but hopefully I'll be able to get this knocked out on monday so I can finally get to the lifts safely! I will miss my beer, but it is so much easier!
I'm debating loaning out the hand bleeder from AutoZone again to speed up the process.
I'm debating loaning out the hand bleeder from AutoZone again to speed up the process.
Yeah, I was thinking that. Most of the cars I have worked on were non-ABS, but that's an excellent point.Poodles;1682383 said:
-AM3