After doing the Lexus 550 Mod and installing my AFPR I screwed up my AFM (either thanks to K&N oil or Maf cleaner) so when I would try to rev the engine would try to die. I was getting codes 24 and 31. So I've had to drive it with the afm unplugged so that I could at least get it into limp, retard, safe, whatever its called mode, basically i couldnt rev past 2.5k. So I was able to get another AFM from a mechanic and now I'm able to rev my whole range but its still a little rough. While driving the check engine light will come on and the shut off. Also sometimes the engine cuts out almost like i'm hitting fuel cut (mainly in second gear around 1.5k to 2k.) I still get a code 31. What do you guys think is my issue??
Blinking CEL
- Thread starter proto_mkiii
- Start date
I'll also say that once I pick up speed the CEL turns off and drives fine but as soon as i start to slow down it comes on again and start acting up again.
Check for any possible leaks in the accordion pipe. They get super brittle over time and when installing the lex afm it stretches it out a lot. Its also quiet possible the AFM you got from that mechanic is partly failed too. Might be a good idea to throw a boost leak tester on since the system is pretty sensitive to boost leaks.
Check your wiring also. You've been fiddling with the afm plug by plugging/unplugging a lot.
The wires tend to break over time and not make good contact.
Apart from that i'd try another afm first.
The wires tend to break over time and not make good contact.
Apart from that i'd try another afm first.
Damn, this is actually the 4th one I've tested and sadly the only one I can at least drive on the highway with. I would love to find an afm that works for sure so I can rule that out but no one around me runs 7m anymore.
Anyone else ever had an issue with the engine cutting out almost like hitting fuel cut when driving slow, and then while slowing down from maybe 40+ mph its starts again. The CEL is on during those periods and then off when its driving nicely
Ugh... I decided to get to my ecu to check if the wiring from the ecu to the afm was good and everything checked out. So I plug everything back in and new problem, CEL never came back on but the idle keeps dropping. And a new problem, NO BOOST! As soon as my boost gauge hits 0 it sputters. What's going on now?!?
Dont use MAF cleaner on the Karman AFM, it messes it up. It think it was jdub that told me this. If I recall correctly he said to use freon to clean it, but dont quote me on that.
Boost problem turned out to be just a vac hose that was off for some reason. But now I'm back to the old problem. I tested one more afm and it seemed to have a similar feel. To recap the whole experience for anyone just seeing my thread; I start the car the revs drop and almost dies then the CEL comes on and I have a steady idle. (Well until it warms up and it drops from 1100 to maybe 550 rpms. Is that normal?) if I try to drive slowly the CEL stays on and will sputter, if I apply more throttle and I pass 2000 rpms in second gear the CEL turns off and from there on it drives fine until I take my foot of the pedal and the car slows some. Then CEL comes back on and in that moment if I try to accelerate again it will feel almost like fuel cut or just no response and then randomly the car will accelerate. And the cycle repeats. So any new suggestions?
Same prob with mine but my afm was soaked in oil do to bad rings. The afm is a very very sensitive sensor. If you are still running the k/n oil air filter your prob killing it. And as far as cleaning a clean micro fiber cloth and whip it down i think thats right. Apexi makes a great air filter that i think is oil free.
The filter is dry now. It's been over a week and a half now plus I hooked it up to a vacuum to get any excess. So I don't think I killed the other one.
I'll check my iscv when i get home. Tps should be good checked several times. By the way which way do I turn to raise the idle?
you can't raise the idle. it's controlled by the ecu.
don't even try to set the dashpot or anything, you'll phuck things up bigtime.
I was thinking, you're saying you did the lexriemer mod.
What injectors did you use? new ones? second hand? did you have them tested?
How's the honeycomb on the lexafm ? still intact?
and did you remove the J-tube ? if so, what's controlling fuel pressure? stock fpr? aftermarket?
If you have an aftermarket afpr, what pressure is it set to ? it should be around 40psi with the vacuum hose unplugged.
the problem still sounds afm-related but you changed the lexafm housing and the injectors. So if something's not working the newly added parts are always prime suspect and should be checked first.
don't even try to set the dashpot or anything, you'll phuck things up bigtime.
I was thinking, you're saying you did the lexriemer mod.
What injectors did you use? new ones? second hand? did you have them tested?
How's the honeycomb on the lexafm ? still intact?
and did you remove the J-tube ? if so, what's controlling fuel pressure? stock fpr? aftermarket?
If you have an aftermarket afpr, what pressure is it set to ? it should be around 40psi with the vacuum hose unplugged.
the problem still sounds afm-related but you changed the lexafm housing and the injectors. So if something's not working the newly added parts are always prime suspect and should be checked first.
Thanks for the heads up on the idle but yea I had my injectors flow tested with good results. RC 550s And didn't remove the j tube but I have the return of my afpr go straight to the return line and the pressure is 35 I believe
35 seems a tad low. is it with or without the vacuum hose removed? fuel pressure should NEVER go below 32 psi. It would explain why the car runs better when you make more rpm as the fuel pressure rises 1:1 with your vacuum.
Also another thing to check are your spark plugs perhaps?
Also another thing to check are your spark plugs perhaps?
