i have air in my coolant system and am unsure as how to get it out. The gauge will go up and down up and down.. all randomly too. it seems when i first start it and drive.. at one point it will go all the way up to hot then drop right down and from then on while driving it it might go up 3.4 of the way but not lal the way up anymore. i recently put in a titan motorsports 1.2mm metal head gasket and arp studs and etc.. i only had the head milled though. lately ive been hearing its so bad to not have the block milled. but at the time of doing it i heard alot that it didnt need to be milled because the block is cast iron and is very hard to warp. people are saying my hg might be blown. i just put it in about 600 miles ago. any ideas on this or how to get the air out of my system?
bleeding coolant system
- Thread starter s7mgte
- Start date
You should never need to "burp" the cooling system. There is a leak, whether it's internal or external is up to you to find out. For your sake it had better be a leaky hose.
EDIT: My apologies. I missed your earlier thread. It's a BHG, you didn't replace your old one properly and fucked yourself because of it.
EDIT: My apologies. I missed your earlier thread. It's a BHG, you didn't replace your old one properly and fucked yourself because of it.
mkIIIman089;976535 said:
if it was blown though dont you think i would have coolant in my oil and would be losing boost and all that good stuff? i just replaced it about 600 miles ago with the 1.2mm metal hg with arp studs and nuts. and prepped all the surfaces good and had a mechanic do it with me. had a good snap on digital torque wrench...the car runs good.. im just not sure if all the air is out of it.
Get that "warped block" shit out of your head.
It's RA spec that you should be spending your brain power on.
Air will work it's way out normally buddy, I flush coolant more than you flush a toilet so I KNOW how a properly working cooling system functions.
It's RA spec that you should be spending your brain power on.
Air will work it's way out normally buddy, I flush coolant more than you flush a toilet so I KNOW how a properly working cooling system functions.
Ok...gonna say this ONE more time:
Pressure test your coolant system.
Grab a block tester at NAPA to see if there is exhaust gas in your coolant...if it is, you got another BHG.
Pressure test your coolant system.
Grab a block tester at NAPA to see if there is exhaust gas in your coolant...if it is, you got another BHG.
Frank Rizzo;977165 said:
Get your "head out of your ass". The block can and will warp, so don't try to mislead him. The Correct RA spec has everything to do with obtaining a correct seal as well. It can be a combination of both that caused it.
There is more than one way to blow a head gasket, so don't assume that if it's blown, then there's oil in the coolant.
Get yourself one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisl...ZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
Makes life so much easier.
They are made just for purging radiators.
You over-fill so that you have standing coolant in the funnel.
And as air pockets come up, they are instantly replaced with coolant.
When all the air is gone, you insert the plug
(the long skinny thing in the picture)
and remove the funnel (and all the extra coolant).
No Mess,
No spilling,
And no air in the system.
What also helps on the 7M is an old trick I have used for years.
I drill a small hole in all my thermostats
right at the very top, next to the seal.
This allows air to pass, even if the engine is not up to temp.
Some thermostats come with a little check valve built in,
but it is seldom right at the edge of the seal.
Some don't even have this.
I use a 3/16" hole.
It is not large enough to affect the function of the thermostat,
but passes air extremely fast.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisl...ZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
Makes life so much easier.
They are made just for purging radiators.
You over-fill so that you have standing coolant in the funnel.
And as air pockets come up, they are instantly replaced with coolant.
When all the air is gone, you insert the plug
(the long skinny thing in the picture)
and remove the funnel (and all the extra coolant).
No Mess,
No spilling,
And no air in the system.
What also helps on the 7M is an old trick I have used for years.
I drill a small hole in all my thermostats
right at the very top, next to the seal.
This allows air to pass, even if the engine is not up to temp.
Some thermostats come with a little check valve built in,
but it is seldom right at the edge of the seal.
Some don't even have this.
I use a 3/16" hole.
It is not large enough to affect the function of the thermostat,
but passes air extremely fast.
i have actually used one of those and got some air out.. im not sure if i got it all out.. but some keeps getting back in.. im starting to think my HG might be messed up. and also. if you installed headstuds then the whole motor needs to be removed to get the head off correct due to it hitting the back of the firewall?gofastgeorge;977327 said:
Frank Rizzo;977294 said:
You can bait, but I'm not biting.
Ever seen a warped 7M block? Ever milled a head from a 7M, placed a MLS gasket on it, and not touched the block??
