3p141592654;2028035 said:
I stand corrected! For some reason I had it in my head that the extra spring was related to the pinion gear and not the clutch packs.
Bad Rear End Chatter?
- Thread starter Emeraldage
- Start date
I stand corrected! For some reason I had it in my head that the extra spring was related to the pinion gear and not the clutch packs.
Sorry to bring this up again. But I won't have enough time to wait for redline oil to get here. So i think I'm just going to get a quart of ford oil. How much friction mod should I get for it? I'm almost thinking I should get 1 quart of oil, .25 quart of friction mod (2x 4oz bottles) and then recycle a bit of my old oil back in. Or would that be way too much friction mod? I just want this stupid problem to go away! Or should 1 bottle of friction mod be plenty?
Well it's bad enough that the inner wheel actually skips and you can kind hear the sound of the impact going through the drivetrain in tight turns. It's horribly annoying and seems like there is something massively wrong with my car when if I ever have someone else with me. Like on flat parking lot tar you can see the dark black mark of the inner tire on the road every time. Mostly concerned with the tirewear and just hate having problems. I'm just going to get one bottle of oil and one bottle of friction mod tomorrow. Drain mine. Put the friction mod in and then oil and a bit of my old oil. And add nother bottle of friction mod if it's still chattery. If that doesn't work going to have to take it apart or send it to a shop.
I was going to order 2 bottles of redline off amazon but apparently I have to leave to go back to ohio tuesday so I don't have enough time to get the oil, only thing I have available is the ford oil unless I get something at advanced. But that's 20$ a quart. Spending 50$ for diff oil is fkin expensive. Especially that I've gone through 3 bottles of friction mod and 2 quarts of castrol shit before.
I was going to order 2 bottles of redline off amazon but apparently I have to leave to go back to ohio tuesday so I don't have enough time to get the oil, only thing I have available is the ford oil unless I get something at advanced. But that's 20$ a quart. Spending 50$ for diff oil is fkin expensive. Especially that I've gone through 3 bottles of friction mod and 2 quarts of castrol shit before.
Have you tried driving in a circle going in reverse? There was a TSB a long time ago on this and that was the solution.
I've not heard of anyone using more that 1 bottle of the friction mod in my research. The fact that you've used 2+ tells me there's something not quite right and it's not just going to "go away."
Yeah just got 80-90 from ford with one bottle of friction mod and it's a bit better, actually rolls a bit better too but definitely still there. Also my rear camber is off so it's sitting most of it's weight on the inside of the tire instead of the full tread. I just drove in a turnabout several times both ways there was no skipping but if you hit a leaf or something it would definitely skip the inner tire. I looked at my tires the inside of them is so low on tread now lol..
@Demon Yeah it's locking too much that's why I added MORE friction mod to make it slicker. Now I don't know if I want to try royal purple sometime since everyone said it's too slippery or just deal with it until I figure out how to work with them. I've taken the diff out before but I wouldn't know what to do with it on the inside.
I don't know what kind of a mechanical problem it could be unless someone before somehow increased the tension on the inside or something for drag/drift? I'm not sure. To me I figure if the clutches get worn out it would become slicker.
@Demon Yeah it's locking too much that's why I added MORE friction mod to make it slicker. Now I don't know if I want to try royal purple sometime since everyone said it's too slippery or just deal with it until I figure out how to work with them. I've taken the diff out before but I wouldn't know what to do with it on the inside.
I don't know what kind of a mechanical problem it could be unless someone before somehow increased the tension on the inside or something for drag/drift? I'm not sure. To me I figure if the clutches get worn out it would become slicker.
Don't have the time yet that's kind of a big project. I know nothing about how they work or what I could look for. Any writeups that show problems that can be detected or fixing diffs gripping too hard? I haven't seen any..
post #20. The only way to fix any issue is to pull it apart. Before I did that I would follow the recommendations in this Supra TSB
DIFF004 NOV 90 Differential - Reduced Chatter Noise, Limited Slip
DIFF004 NOV 90 Differential - Reduced Chatter Noise, Limited Slip
yhatzee89;2028298 said:
Start by adding 1/4 bottle at a time until the diff stops chirping during cornering is the advice I got from the reading I did when I rebuilt mine.
Was at the Toyota dealer they said they hand a tundra with the same issue. They had to just clean it out super well, spraying inside with super strong cleaner and putting toyota lsd gear oil in it. But my diff is WAY better than it was before after driving it for awhile than it was before. Just some chattering on tight turns if it's wet or on leaves and such.
Aha screw you dude! Also, I LOVE the look of those celica/celica supra rims on your mk3, it looks so much better than the supra wheels. I might see if I can get a hold of some somewhere.
Haha I just got lucky I think, and those are actually Mitsubishi Starion rims (still working out the fit)
Really? The look exactly the same as the supra celica wheels...
I think that guy had them polished or chrome but you get the point.
I think that guy had them polished or chrome but you get the point.