Another stalling issue thread, please help, I'm losing my mind.

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Hey y'all. Here's the setup and background info:

Setup as pertinent to issue:
- stock ecu (JDM, to account for EGR deletion),
- stock ignition system (upgraded ground wire for ignitor)
- stock AFM/TPS/ISCV
- stock injectors
- AEM 320lph fuel pump
- Aeromotive AFPR
- UNrecirculated Synapse BOV (the non-recirculation has NEVER been an issue, I cannot stress that enough)

Background of issue:

Been driving the Supra with no major issues for over a year. Burning quite a bit of oil, not sure what the cause is yet, but a month or so ago I decided to replace the valve seals to rule out one cause. Valve seal replacement went smoothly (did not fix oil burning but that is not the issue here). Drove her for several days until I took a small roadtrip and drove her around with some spirited parts. On the way home at night, the supra suddenly lost all throttle response and revs were around idle speeds and it eventually stalled out. I coasted the car off the highway and called a buddy to help with diagnostics, we narrowed it down to the CPS wires.

Got it towed home and the next day I inspected the wires and lo, the solder joints had broken in two of the four wires. Temporarily fixed it with crimps and the car drove fine for another few days, until again, it suddenly lost throttle response. This time I opted to buy a refurbished CPS, however the resistance specs of the wires in the reman unit were out of spec, almost 200ohms when tsrm dictates around 140-180. For reference, my old CPS had good resistances the entire time, around 170. With the new CPS, the car would start and run fine until op temp and some change and then the issue would arise once again, leading me to believe that when hot, the resistances in the wires were getting too high and causing bad connection.

I removed the new CPS and opted to solder the old CPS correctly. Again, resistances were fine, re-solder went smoothly. The car started, but died after about 45 seconds, this rules out resistances getting too high since the car was still cold. Second time it idled smoothly, (take note, when it runs, it runs smoothly with no issues at all) but this time, once it reached op temp, I gave it a couple small revs and it stumbled when revs dropped and stalled out. From then on out it was the same deal, start the car and it would immediately die. I performed extensive wiggle tests harness side for the CPS wires and also verified continuity to the ECU plugs. This rules out a bad CPS connection. As per suggestions from a friend, I disconnected the TPS, AFM and ISCV in turn to see if the behavior of the car would change. This is the breakdown of the response for each plug:

TPS unplugged, car would start, revs would drop and it would attempt to recover once or twice if it succeeded the first time. Note that this exactly how the car behaves with the TPS plugged in. So no change at all.
AFM unplugged, the car would start and die much quicker than before with no attempts to recover.
ISCV unplugged, upon start, revs shoot to 2k, and drop rapidly to stall out with no attempts to recover.

I also disassembled the ISCV to see if it was dirty, it wasn't. Aside from a little bit of oil/dirt build up, it was just as clean as when I first put it back together and tested it. AFM was also clean, just a small film of oil, no doubt from the PCV system.

Compression test yielded 175s and 180s across the board, not sure if it matters, but at least you know the internals are healthy.

For all of the above tests etc, throttle response was minimal. Sometimes I would be able to force the engine to catch and rev a little, but it never occurred more than twice in any given sitting.

CEL codes, only 34 which is the same code you get from fuel cut, except I never hit fuel cut. It is a hint, but with my tired mind, it's not ringing any bells.

I can't think of anything else right now, if I do, I'll edit it in and make a note of it in the comments.

Hope someone will suggest a solution that will solve this aggravating issue, and thanks ahead of time for your assistance.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
I really doubt that is the issue. A, the compression tests were phenominal and B, I don't think bad sealing valves would run so smoothly and then suddenly for no apparent reason cause the car to die. I have to stress that when the engine runs, it runs super smooth and sounds beautiful. I'm 99.5% certain this is an electrical issue, but where?

Some more info from testing so far today:

Tried starting with AFM, ISCV and TPS unplugged to no avail.

Swapped out the JDM ECU back to my old USDM ECU. It ran for a bit, got warm and I shut her off and planned on going for a drive to see how it would behave. Upon starting up again, the issue arose. I pumped the throttle, and it would catch intermittently, but as soon as I stopped it stalled out.

There are no CEL codes.

My thoughts are a possible break in a wire occurring once enough heat has been absorbed, problem is finding out which circuit this break is occurring in.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,871
37
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
lithium14;2051357 said:
- UNrecirculated Synapse BOV (the non-recirculation has NEVER been an issue, I cannot stress that enough)

You should un-stress it as much as possible.

Got it towed home and the next day I inspected the wires and lo, the solder joints had broken in two of the four wires.

Yep, that is normal.

Toyota said:
A good mechanical joint must exist because the solder will not hold the joint together.

And

Weller (make of irons) said:
Solder does not stand up to vibration or movement

Click here, read the whole thing. And pay special attention starting on page 10.

CEL codes, only 34 which is the same code you get from fuel cut, except I never hit fuel cut. It is a hint, but with my tired mind, it's not ringing any bells.

Unless you did not pull the EFI fuse for more than 30 seconds on a past problem, this is a problem. And it can cause stalling. The 34 is there to inform you that you did in fact hit the required Hz in the airflow meter to trigger fuel cut. Make sure the CPS wiring is repaired IAW the instructions I provided in the link.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Alright folks. Me and my buddy narrowed it down to a vacuum leak after I redid the TB gasket and the idle improved, as in it tried to live longer. Went ahead and redid the intake manifold gasket and ISCV gasket with the gasket sealing spray and went through all my IC piping clamps. A lot of them were far looser than I anticipated. Issue seems to solved, idled beautifully and revs were sharp. Second start was smooth as well. Will go for a drive tomorrow and report back.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
It wasn't a vacuum leak. It was a bad fuel pump resistor. Bypassed the sucker and everything seems fine now. On to the next item!!