i tested the ohms and it seems to be correct but i'm getting a check engine light and it won't rev past 2k rpms. i have a blow off valve and a boost controller but i turned it down to 6 psi like stock (automatic) my AFM was broken(reading no ohms) but i soldered it and i thoiught that would fix it. how long do i have to take my ecu fuse out to reset my computer? and i was thinking of buying a new AFM on this site but am not sure if that is what it is yet. i do not have a code reader and can't find one. does a fuel cut at 2000 rpms sounds right for a bad AFM?
air flow meter
- Thread starter rick1988
- Start date
Blow off valve is going to cause your engine to run like shit.
You need a re-circulation fitting, to blow the air back into the intake. Your AFM is expecting the air to be recirculated.
30 Seconds will reset it.
Also, you don't have a paper clip? That's how everyone checks their engine codes...
For the love of God here it is...
Open your hood
Grab a paperclip
Bend it completely straight
Find the "Diagnostics" box, by your battery
Connect terminals "E1" and "TE1"
Turn the ignition (Don't start)
Watch the flashes.
Example (- - - - pause -- ) is a code 42
You might find 4 codes or none, wait for it to cycle back to the first code you recorded.
If you can't figure out how to do this, take the car to me, and hand me the title and keys and I'll have it running good.
You need a re-circulation fitting, to blow the air back into the intake. Your AFM is expecting the air to be recirculated.
30 Seconds will reset it.
Also, you don't have a paper clip? That's how everyone checks their engine codes...
For the love of God here it is...
Open your hood
Grab a paperclip
Bend it completely straight
Find the "Diagnostics" box, by your battery
Connect terminals "E1" and "TE1"
Turn the ignition (Don't start)
Watch the flashes.
Example (- - - - pause -- ) is a code 42
You might find 4 codes or none, wait for it to cycle back to the first code you recorded.
If you can't figure out how to do this, take the car to me, and hand me the title and keys and I'll have it running good.
Bootymeat;1473035 said:
how could the blow-off valve affect how it runs if he cant even get it to rev past 2k? his engine wont be building boost at 2k. my stock 7mgte ran fine with a non-recirculating BOV.
They are no code reader for your car. You have to jump te1 and e1 in the check connector under your hood. Then you have to count the check engine flashes and that gives you your code.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
you have to re-circulate with a stock afm... He has other issues for sure but you have to do that.
BoostedRunner87;1473039 said:
I'm not saying that's the cause of the problem. How am I suppose to diagnose an engine with NO information. I know not recirculating a BOV can cause your car not to idle right, and not to run correctly. So that's a start.
For all I know it could be out of time.
OP : What did you do before the engine wouldn't run right? Give us more information. Check your codes like I suggested, and tell us what the codes your engine has given us. If not, I have no information to help you out and you're just ranting like a teenager on facebook.
Bootymeat;1473035 said:
BOV will have zero effect on idle unless it's stuck open which is highly unlikley as the normal issues is not getting them to open fast enough or leaking under boost.
Not everyone knows how to check codes, cut the attitude.
Mr.PFloyd;1473042 said:
No you don't. Is it the "proper" way to do it, yes. Do you HAVE to and have many people not done it and been fine, yes.
rick1988;1473032 said:
As already mentioned, check codes. Also, what exactly did you solder?
Poodles;1473086 said:
When modifying a car, you try to make it better then it was.
By doing it without recirculating won't.
I have similar problems and not one of these bone heads can help me without looking at I suggest you take it to a toyota specialist because farting around here will get you no where.
I've checked my codes and cleared em and my car can't go past 2k
all i got is an intake and full exhuast from the turbo and back. The car ran fine for 2 years straight and one day comeing home it started bogging like shit. SO i am going to take my shit in.
-Steve Z
Did you try the CYNUS site its really good or just buy a TSRM from toyota like me
TOYOTA SUPRA REPAIR MANUAL (a big red book!)
I've checked my codes and cleared em and my car can't go past 2k
all i got is an intake and full exhuast from the turbo and back. The car ran fine for 2 years straight and one day comeing home it started bogging like shit. SO i am going to take my shit in.
-Steve Z
Did you try the CYNUS site its really good or just buy a TSRM from toyota like me
TOYOTA SUPRA REPAIR MANUAL (a big red book!)
Check the ground on the intake manifold (make sure connection is clean and tight). Seems as if you are skipping something. Check timing and a BOV doesn't have to be recirculated unless its stuck open at idle ( should not effect partial throttle all the way to 5k rpm). Check codes as stated... and bad tps and CPS can have the same outcome.
Mr.PFloyd;1473106 said:
Yet again, your opinion and also as already stated, won't cause his issues
SUPRASTEVE;1473116 said:
Sorry bud, in your case I can't comment. As for the OP it's hard to diagnose with the vague details.
Poodles;1473246 said:
same exact symptoms as was stated by thread starter of this thread. Coil packs and connections good, CPS good, igniter good, plugs good, fuel filter good, IC pipes good, TPS is good, Idles fine but car shakes. will rev up to about 3K actually but will cut out and bog and won't go past 3k under a load but while out of gear it will rev to 6500 rpm but the reving is a lil ruff and slow. My afm is actually blown but I've had a blown afm and I just bogged but ran rich... point on that is that It ran well enough to go on the freeway and now it can't even get out of the parking lot Ask for more details specific of what you need to know cuz I can't remember of the top of my head.
Sounds like what happened with my old AFM. They seem to go out gradually then stop working entirely.
Popping an IC pipe will do the same as well...
Popping an IC pipe will do the same as well...
Poodles;1473386 said:
Well then agian yeah last time the afm out was due to human error I took off the afm and my brother sprayed it with windex I wiped it off and put it on and it ran like shit. but it ran good after hitting boost it was running rich. In conclusion the afm i had was probably just giving false reading due to contamination. This AFM probably just pooped out. and the PS hoses leaking on my lower IC pipes probably made pin holes Ehhh I gotta make more money.
P.S. No I did not run my supra like this for a long time I actually did replace the afm and it was running great for 2 years then it pooped out.
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Blind leading the blind on page one..:nono:
OP: Listen to poodles, hes the only one curb stomping the ignorance.
check your codes, and report back.
OP: Listen to poodles, hes the only one curb stomping the ignorance.
check your codes, and report back.
The questions here is HAS all parts indicated TESTED according to TSRM and within specs? It's one thing to say its good and another as to actually TESTING the parts.
I think Poodles has already stated the most informative answers.
Lewis15498 is right.
I think Poodles has already stated the most informative answers.
Lewis15498 is right.
okay when my car runs the check engine light is on. it is very hard to start after many attempts it will idle. after idling it for a while(when it gets warm) you can slowly rev it to between 2k and 3k rpms. if you hit the gas hard it dies. if you rev it too high it dies. it sounds like a fuel cut. my mass air flow is bad i think i just want to make sure though. i checked the codes(thanks for helping me i grew up working on chevys) and it blinks once, short pause, then blinks again. in the TSRM it says that that is what it should read. but then why is my check engine light on? i took out my blow off valve and put it back to stock recirculating valve.
thanks, rICK
thanks, rICK