Most of the aftermarket 'E' core coils actually have the same bolt pattern as the 7MGE coil.
You just need to stay away from the ones made for a CDI box, like the Crane PS-LX93.
They draw more current, and most likely will kill the igniter.
I chose a Crane PS91, but the Accel 140009, or the MSD 29214 are good candidates also.
After removing it from the ridiculously heavy chrome plated,
bullet proof A-frame mount that Crane put on it,
it is ready to bolt onto the stock igniter.
But it is larger than the stock coil, so you will need longer screws, and spacers (called 'stand-offs').
The screw size is 4mm, and for the PS91, I used 35mm long screws, and 8mm long stand-offs.
It is best to just remove the whole igniter/coil assembly to do the conversion.
Un-plug the wires going from the igniter to the coil.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the coil to the igniter.
If your igniter is corroded, dirty, and ugly, now is the time to clean it up.
You need to remove the plug from the wires that goes to the coil.
To do this, first remove the rubber grommets that seal the wires to the plug.
I use an awl to pop them out, they are just pressed in place.
Be careful not to damage the wire insulation.
Then remove the wire from the plug by depressing the lock tab in the wire connector with a very small screwdriver or release tool available at most electronic supply houses.
This is easier if you first push in on the wire, hold it,
then slide the release tool into the grove along side the connector on the other end to depress the lock tab.
It may take a couple of tries, but they will eventually pop out.
Surprisingly, the stock Toyota connectors fit right on the Crane coil.
But insulate them first with short sections of 1/4" heat shrink tube.
Then it is just a matter of mounting the coil with the spacers, and longer screws.
And plugging the wires into the coil.
The light tan wire goes to the positive coil on the Crane coil.
You will need a different plug wire end, because the aftermarket coils have a male (spark-plug type) connection.
Bolt it back into the engine bay, and plug it in.
Done !
You now have a slightly hotter coil, to deal with higher compresion, colder plugs, or overly rich conditions.
You will note that the Crane coil looks very "OEM" without the big bullet proff shroud on it.
Helps with that "stealth" look.
You just need to stay away from the ones made for a CDI box, like the Crane PS-LX93.
They draw more current, and most likely will kill the igniter.
I chose a Crane PS91, but the Accel 140009, or the MSD 29214 are good candidates also.
After removing it from the ridiculously heavy chrome plated,
bullet proof A-frame mount that Crane put on it,
it is ready to bolt onto the stock igniter.
But it is larger than the stock coil, so you will need longer screws, and spacers (called 'stand-offs').
The screw size is 4mm, and for the PS91, I used 35mm long screws, and 8mm long stand-offs.
It is best to just remove the whole igniter/coil assembly to do the conversion.
Un-plug the wires going from the igniter to the coil.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the coil to the igniter.
If your igniter is corroded, dirty, and ugly, now is the time to clean it up.
You need to remove the plug from the wires that goes to the coil.
To do this, first remove the rubber grommets that seal the wires to the plug.
I use an awl to pop them out, they are just pressed in place.
Be careful not to damage the wire insulation.
Then remove the wire from the plug by depressing the lock tab in the wire connector with a very small screwdriver or release tool available at most electronic supply houses.
This is easier if you first push in on the wire, hold it,
then slide the release tool into the grove along side the connector on the other end to depress the lock tab.
It may take a couple of tries, but they will eventually pop out.
Surprisingly, the stock Toyota connectors fit right on the Crane coil.
But insulate them first with short sections of 1/4" heat shrink tube.
Then it is just a matter of mounting the coil with the spacers, and longer screws.
And plugging the wires into the coil.
The light tan wire goes to the positive coil on the Crane coil.
You will need a different plug wire end, because the aftermarket coils have a male (spark-plug type) connection.
Bolt it back into the engine bay, and plug it in.
Done !
You now have a slightly hotter coil, to deal with higher compresion, colder plugs, or overly rich conditions.
You will note that the Crane coil looks very "OEM" without the big bullet proff shroud on it.
Helps with that "stealth" look.
