A few NOOB questions

[Jay C]

So although it wasnt part of my original build plan i splurged on a used 60-1 turbo. Now i have a few questions. Can i run the turbo on the stock engine, wastegate, and BoV without anything else if i want to stay at stockish power levels until i can do more upgrading or should i just stick with my old turbo which is perfectly fine? Or would it just keep hitting fuel cut? I would like to swap over to the new one so i can start working on my SS oil soft line kit. Furthermore i would need to install a coolant bipass hose as the turbo is BB.

Additionally, i am thinking of having the turbo exhaust housing powder coated. Is this something that can be done with the turbo together, or does the turbo need to be seperated? If so is it something i can do or something i should save for someone with a clue?

Finally what is involved with a MHG? I know that the head and deck need to be pulled and machined down but do they need to be completely dissasebled? Also what would be a reasonable budget to get the work done right?

Sorry for all of the noob questions but this was not part of my original build so have no idea on this stuff :aigo:.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

It shouldn't hit fuel cut. I have a T4 60-1 and it didn't hit fuel cut until 14PSI. Stock wastegate and motor should be fine.

The turbo housing is easily to disassemble, use the TSRM. Ceramic would be best.

 

[boostcraver]

Is your new turbo internally waste gated like the stock CT? It will have a waste gate actuator and a small round vacuum diaphragm under the compressor housing like the stocker. Also, check the flanges of both turbos, stock and 60-1. If you got a t-3 or t-4 flanged bb turbo, you will need a different manifold, or at least an adapter made. If not internally gated, you will need the manifold AND a wg. More than likely a new down pipe too. When you get the turbo on the car and running, you should be ok with lower boost (<10lbs) on the stock internals, and you MAY be able to get to 14 lbs without hittng FC, but remember to upgrade to a Lex AFM and 550's. Get a Bosch BOV which is a direct replacement for the stocker, handles more boost and is relatively cheap. Ok, OK, so its not the Bosch brand anymore, but its still the same thing. Check out Driftmotion for that part, and the coolant bypass line...

As far as the machine work goes, it really depends on where you take it, and how proud they are of their labor. In general, it would be recommended to take it somewhere that is familiar with working on import engines and it doesn't hurt if they've done a few performance builds before. Shop around, get references and use common sense. Seems logical that you would want to tear it down if there are going to be metal shaving flying about (and getting in the cyls, valves, etc)while the surfaces are machined, but I'm no machinist so I can't say for sure. Maybe there are some tricks of the trade that I'm unaware of that may save you that labor

Check out the stickies at the top of the tech section for info on hg selection. You are looking for a min. Ra on both surfaces our the hg won't seal right. Can't remember what the range is, but I believe the max. is 25? Anyone else who knows for sure feel free to correct me. Hope all this helps you and gl with your build!

 

[Jay C]

The 60-1 BB is a CT 26 and it has the same wastegate i just wanted to make sure that i could run the car without over boosting untill i can save up enough to do some machine work. I believe that an RA of 20-30 is fine depending on what the MHG manufacturer states. I just didn't know if the block needed to be completely dissasembled or if it could just be lapped or something.