7mgte swap. Car started first crank last week. Won't start now.

91mk3

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
21
0
0
Ellicott City, MD
So last week I was finally able to start the car after swapping in the turbo engine. All fluid are filled. First start after the swap took a little cranking. I let it run for about 30 seconds and started hearing a rubbing/rattling noise, so I cut it off. I looked around and couldn't figure out what it was so I started the car again. It started on the first crank without any trouble and idled steady for another minute or so until I found the rubbing issue and shut it off. I left the car off while I tried to fix the issue, and I didn't get a chance to start it again until this weekend. After fixing what was a line rubbing against an accessory belt, I tried to start it again. This time it cranked very slowly and didn't start. I thought it might be the battery dying so I tried to jump it. It continued to crank slower and slower. I tried starting it maybe three times, but on the third it cranked very slowly maybe three times and then nothing... I quit trying after that and so here I am. Any help is very much appreciated. If you need any more info in order to help diagnose the issue, please ask.

Everyone likes pics, so here is one of my work in progress...

p1811692_1.jpg


Thanks,
Dan
 

wardog

R.G.V WARDOG
Jan 19, 2006
564
0
16
ALTON, TX
Starter might be dying on you. Take the battery to your local auto parts store and have them charge it and try it again. While you are there take the alternator and have it checked too.
 

91mk3

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
21
0
0
Ellicott City, MD
Thanks for the response. Would the fact that it was cranking slowly while being jumped rule out a battery/alternator issue? I still plan to have the battery charged and I'll have them check the alternator also.
 

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
0
16
Kelowna, BC
i would definitely check the battery out. Your battery could draw enough (if its bad) that the jumper cables and a running alternator would not help your situation. If you get the System up and running, check to make sure you have good voltage coming from your alternator and that all of your cable connections are tight. Easiest test is to start it using the jumper cables without the battery and unhook the jumper cables and turn on your electronics. If your alternator is good then your system will run and start undaunted by anything your running. Otherwise... your engine will die once you unhook your cables and you will know your alternator needs to be rebuilt/replaced.

side of the road tests for the win.
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
Jun 14, 2011
480
0
0
Fort Myers/Cape Coral - Florida
IMO, there are two considerations.

1) Starter - Although in my experience I've seen dying starters only work or not work. Never slowly work.

This leads me to my strongest suspect..
2) Bad ground. I feel that if your battery negative is failing, then upon jumping and cranking it may be growing weaker. Check your connections.

The easiest way to figure this out, is to check voltage AT the starter. Then go from there.
 

91mk3

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
21
0
0
Ellicott City, MD
Thanks for the responses. The battery is grounded on the wheel well and on either the engine mount or the block, I can't remember at the moment. Power goes to the starter and the small wire that runs under the fuse block next to the battery. Unfortunately it won't be until next weekend that I can get the battery charged. Engine oil is Royal Purple.
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
4,455
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0
Queens, NY
Check starter hotwire to positive terminal on battery. Chassis to battery ground wire. Battery ground to engine block wire. Check all of those, if all are good and clean, I say a battery/alternator is next on the list.
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
4,455
0
0
Queens, NY
There is a spot on the block for it. It is an unused hole where if I recall correctly, is held in by a 12MM head bolt. It is there from the factory. Its located on the intake side by the engine mount area.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
How lean? It should be pretty lean at idle.
With 560's, Walbro and a Lex AFM, you shouldn't be lean.
Check your Neo adjustments?
 

91mk3

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
21
0
0
Ellicott City, MD
I assume you're referring to my sig. I haven't installed the Walbro yet, so that's probably why it's lean. I just finished the engine swap and the Walbro is next on the list, then I'll make adjustments.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
0
0
Alberta
www.gyoba.com
Stock FP should be more than good enough to be running rich at stockish boost levels. It's only over 14 or so PSI boost that I'd doubt the stock fuel pump. Certainly NOT at idle.
 

91mk3

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
21
0
0
Ellicott City, MD
Well when I revved the engine (haven't actually driven it yet, and only revved a little) the afr's dipped down into the safe range, but went lean when I left off the throttle and kinda freaked me out. After doing some more reading I found that this is normal when letting off the throttle. This is my first time doing anything of this magnitude (for me, at least) with a car, so I'm just learning as I go and trying to be extra careful. I didn't drive the car much before I swapped the engine but when I did the revs were breaking up/struggling around 3k rpm, and then having it go lean after the swap I thought that it might be the fuel pump dying. I know there are other things that could cause a break-up in the revs that may even be more probable than a dying fuel pump, but I just wanted to be safe rather than sorry... I also wasn't sure if there was a difference in the fuel pumps in the turbo car and the na car, but again I thought better safe than sorry.

While idling, my afrs were like 16-18+ on my aem. I don't think that is safe for the engine, even at idle. Do you know otherwise? If this is not normal then what might be the issue? I assume vacuum leaks are the first thing to check for.

Thanks for the help.