7mgte stock rebuild-sort of

[supraficial]

So I've searched and the verdict for a stock rebuild kit is to build your own, or the ones off of eBay etc. I am only getting the block decked and ARP Studs with a MHG, I wasn't planning on boring or honing anything unless its necessary. What, in your opinion, would be the bare minimum parts for a stock rebuild. I was hoping to use stock pistons, so maybe just rings, bearings, water pump, tensioner for the bottom end? For a background, I bought a half-assed swap 7mgte from the stock 7mge. I've stated this before in my other thread about wiring, but in case you haven't seen it, I bought the correct harness and ecu, now I'm looking to rebuild the bottom end, new hose kit because many are missing unfortunately. The turbo has some shaft play, and the manifold bolts are very rusted. Not to get too off-topic, so question is, what are the mandatory replacement parts on the bottom end of a 7mgte?

 

[supraguy@aol]

Rings, bearings, gaskets, seals.

 

[supraficial]

Thank you supraguy, any suggestions on brand or seller? And what about the manifold and turbo issues? Should I upgrade the ct26 and manifold? Do any of the new manifolds retain stock down pipe locations?

 

[91Supra313]

Send the turbo in to Albert for a rebuild and when you redo the engine, pull the old studs out and heli coil them. THen use longer studs in there. My buddy and I in Germany simply pulled the old ones out and bought a threaded rod and used that. Worked perfect.

 

[jake8790]

I would get the turbo upgraded to a 57 trim when you get it rebuilt. Definitely go OEM on all gaskets and seals. I used Driftmotion's kit for the studs, worked well.

 

[supraficial]

I would get the turbo upgraded to a 57 trim when you get it rebuilt. Definitely go OEM on all gaskets and seals. I used Driftmotion's kit for the studs, worked well.

But metal head gasket or stock?

 

[sheedy126]

i would also recommend going with a OEM toyota egr cooler plate gasket if you are running egr.
most of the other manufacture gasket kits come with a felt type gasket and don't hold up well at all

it will save you a lot of trouble later on!

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

So I've searched and the verdict for a stock rebuild kit is to build your own, or the ones off of eBay etc. I am only getting the block decked and ARP Studs with a MHG, I wasn't planning on boring or honing anything unless its necessary. What, in your opinion, would be the bare minimum parts for a stock rebuild. I was hoping to use stock pistons, so maybe just rings, bearings, water pump, tensioner for the bottom end?

Bare minimum? Less than what you mentioned, but I don't think that a bare minimum is a good idea.

These blocks are all 20+ years old, regardless of mileage. If you're sending the block to the shop to get the block (And lower timing cover, of course) decked, then I'd also get the cylinders honed. If you don't do that, then just leave the rings alone, too. Get the crank polished, checked for straightness. Get everything magnafluxed. Chances are high that there may be small cracks from the head bolt holes. These can be dealt with, but only if the shop finds them. Mostly, I guess I'm telling you to get teh machine shop to do more work here.

Rings, bearings, water pump, timing belt tensioner, gasket kit... All of this stuff can be "one stop shopped" at Driftmotion, so I probably would, as well as the timing belt itself, MHG, ARP studs, new oil pump and the oil squirter banjo bolts.

For a background, I bought a half-assed swap 7mgte from the stock 7mge. I've stated this before in my other thread about wiring, but in case you haven't seen it, I bought the correct harness and ecu, now I'm looking to rebuild the bottom end, new hose kit because many are missing unfortunately. The turbo has some shaft play, and the manifold bolts are very rusted. Not to get too off-topic, so question is, what are the mandatory replacement parts on the bottom end of a 7mgte?

I'll second the vote for Albert to do the turbo rebuild. I haven't used him myself, yet, but based on overall feedback, that's who I'm going to send the CT26 in my '90 to when it's time.

I bought an eBay silicone hose kit, which I haven't yet installed, but the pieces appear to be surprisingly decent quality.

 

[supraficial]

I think I am going to keep the bottom end the way it is for now, and retorque the head with ARP bolts to correct spec. Also in regards to the 57 trim turbo, DM sells one new for about the same price as it will cost to rebuild from Albert. So any opinions on this would be appreciated. New or rebuilt and experience with the different manufacturers. So far, it's obvious that Albert is a pretty reputable builder due to his recommendations thus far.

Also with the arp bolts, and 57 trim turbo, what is your recommendation for safe boost in this car?

And unfortunately it seems that the swap was only limited to the engine and has the stock w58 and 7mge rear

 

[supraguy@aol]

So...
You don't trust your block, and instead of rebuilding it with even "the bare minimum", you've decided to bolt a larger turbo onto it... Welp, ok.

As for the w58, you're fine. It's a good tranny up to and past 300hp, in my experience.

 

[jake8790]

Just do it the right way from the start. Full on build. I did the ol' headgasket swap and go and blew it up 6 months later. Use ARP studs, not bolts. Use a Metal headgasket like a Titan, Cometic, or HKS. Use OEM gaskets from toyota on everything else. I'm running 16 lbs of boost on that turbo and it pulls like a monster. I wouldn't go much higher on 92 octane though.

 

[supraficial]

I want to do the rings and gaskets and get the block checked but everyone I'm working with including my boss do not touch the bottom end so I was doubting myself. I have enough money set aside for this car that I could very do it but everyone is saying that once I open it up it will tack on much more money than to just get good head bolts and torque to spec. I know that you all being on the forums know much more about these than they do and common sense should tell you that a 25 year old engine is in need of touching up of the rotating assmbly, to say the least. If I am going to strip the block and get the block worked on can you, as an experienced owner of these engines give me a budget I should look to keep? Again, I've said it before, but I apologize for these ignorant questions

 

[supraguy@aol]

Well, rather than guilt you into a full rebuild that you honestly might not need, i would suggest you get a compression test
first. Thats one way to get a baseline on the condition of your motor. I will tell you that i had at one time used a FelPro head gasket with ARP head studs, and it held flawlessly at up to 15psi. And we on the forum just dont know enough about your setup to say what you should do next.

 

[supraficial]

Compression test was done results were : 130,135,131,142,155,144

 

[supraguy@aol]

Mmkay, thats not the greatest.
Doesnt seem to me like an hg leak, but could be ring and/or valve leaks.

 

[supraficial]

Probably could've done for more amount of cranks seemed to still be rising when we had set a constant crank number. Should I do the test again?

 

[supraficial]

Just found this thread so I'l try this way and report back.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?585759-What-is-stock-compression-on-7mgte

 

[supraficial]

Now doing the compression test as I read in the previously posted thread, I am having serious problems with cylinder #6. I took all the spark plugs out, took compression as is, using 8 cranks now instead of the two or three used before, and then added a little engine oil to the spark plug holes and recorder compression again.

Comp w/o oil
1-125 psi
2-150 psi
3-140 psi
4-151 psi
5-171 psi
6-79 psi

Comp w/ oil
1-156 psi
2-162 psi
3-147 psi
4-169 psi
5-185 psi
6-85 psi

:1zhelp: :cry:

 

[jetjock]

Good grief. Thanks for reminding me how many morons there are on that site...

 

[supraficial]

I didn't really read past the first couple of posts on that thread.

Thinking about it, oil on top of the piston would have no where to go besides up the tester, so could I have fouled my tester by the 6th cylinder? I literally have changed nothing about it from the past test where it read 144 psi besides take the spark plugs out. My exhaust manifold is off and the oil pump is pumping through the turbo line. I thought maybe the battery had died or is low, but I tested number 5 cylinder again and it read fine