7MGTE spark plug reading & boost timing assistance

[BLACKCAT]

Hi everyone, been a while since I last posted a thread.
I have a 7MGTE running a highflow (57 Trim) CT26, aftermarket ECU, using highest ocane fuel readily available.

Have a look at one of my spark plugs (NGK BKR7E) after giving it a blast to 6,000 & 20psi , the highest mappable setting on my ecu, in 2nd gear.

I am running 30 degrees timing with 23 retard for boost at 20psi.
My base timing is at 7 degrees.

Looks like I still have too much timing so do I:
1) reset the base timing to say 5 degrees which would allow me to pull two more degrees
or
2) go to heat range 8 & hope they don't foul too quickly.

I only drive short distances so this would not help matters either.

cheers

 

[Nick M]

Your spark plug doesn't even look like it has 2 hours of operation. Your base timing of 7 degrees is wrong. Fueling is also achieved with the CPS. Put it back where it belongs.

 

[BLACKCAT]

My fuelling is controlled by the standalone ecu (Microtech).

Why would altering the position of the crank sensor affect the a/f ratios, that's a new one to me?

Tried setting the CPS to supposedly the right position of 10*BTDC but the engine does not like it.
Have had it dynoed at 5 & 7* and makes more power without pinging.

 

[hvyman]

Calibration is off then.

Need to sync the standalone to what the actual ignition timing is or else everything is thrown off.

 

[Nick M]

My fuelling is controlled by the standalone ecu (Microtech).

What is its inputs? Factory CPS and airflow meter/MAP sensor?

Why would altering the position of the crank sensor affect the a/f ratios, that's a new one to me?

I didn't say A/F ratio. It alters fuel timing. The computer, no matter which one it is, has to know the engine speed and position, in addition to its load sensor. If it doesn't know position and speed, then it has to inject simultaneous like a TBI.

Tried setting the CPS to supposedly the right position of 10*BTDC but the engine does not like it.

If the sensor is off a tooth, it will not run correctly at 10 degrees.

 

[BLACKCAT]

You guys will have to forgive me if I seem cynical/cranky at times but I have my reasons.
Live alone, 54 years of age & have been sick for a long time.
The only enjoyment I get is to take the car for a cruise & beat you young whipper snippers.

1.10 1.24 1.71 2.38 3.05 3.71 4.67 5.67 6.67 7.52 8.24 8.81 9.43 9.95 11.29 (load ms)
25" 20" 15" 10" 5" 0" 2psi 4psi 6psi 8psi 10psi 14psi 16psi 18psi 20psi
Timing retard for boost: -1 -2 -4 -6 -9 -13 -16 -19 -22
Idle 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000 8000 9000
15 21 26 29 30 30 30 30 30 29 29 30 30 30 30 30 (degrees timing)
Minimum timing 7 & maximum 40.

Have made the 20psi figure a bit higher than the dyno setting (10.62) as it sometimes spikes over 20 psi on the road, and it hits boost cut before spinning to 6000 (rpm limit), if I push it hard.

Don't have a boost controller only the standard factory vacuum hose setup.

The mapping only goes to 20psi however there is a 21 & 24psi setting for spikes.
Am too scared to set it to 21psi as I don't know what a/f ratio I will get when it hits 22 or higher.
Could take it back for another dyno session & get them to load it more but cant really afford that at the moment.

Yes factory CPS & the computer has been set up to run reading MAP & throttle position.
Works out the a/f ratios based on rpm, vacuum/boost & has additional fuelling adjustments for wot.

The CPS is definitely in the right spot as I have removed & installed it, on several occasions over the years.
I mark the original position before removing & make sure #1 piston is at TDC & not 180* (a common mistake).