Well said, well said....clearly this man has been trained well. Lolandrew_mx83;2055308 said:C'mon, do you really think that Toyota would just leave the pulley to free float on the crankshaft and have some magical way of moving back and forward to align the belt? The T belt pulley bottoms out on the #1 main bearing journal, and the serpentine belt pulley bottoms out on the T belt pulley. The crank bolt pulls the whole lot up tight so none of it can move back and forward. The only way that could have happened is if your crank bolt wasnt installed or wasnt tight. Or, excessive thrust bearing wear i guess.
Look, i even took a picture in case you dont belive me
Oh, and FYI, the pulley is sintered metal, not cast iron. Similar in that it is a powdered metal but they are formed under pressure and much stronger/better tolerances than castings. All oem's use sintered metal pulleys on their timing belts, and they go for millions of miles with no wear. No need to go cnc'ing up big billets here. The obvious trap would be to cnc it out of aluminium, then you get pulleys that wear away fairly quickly like those good old hks cam pulleys
You can also TIG to these pulleys without much problem, but peening it over as you have done it is the way to go.
The rings do come off from time to time, it happens. Ive seen a couple. Usually due to poor handling IMO, knock that lip around too much and you'll disturb the peen marks and maybe even the press fit.
Dont stress too much about the sliding fit of the pulley on the crank, unless its sloppy. Ive pulled apart dozens -some are a tight, almost press fit and some are loose sliding fits. The trick is to apply a smear of oil of grease to the inside of the pulley bore on installation, then you dont have a hard time getting it off in the future as they dont rust together. As you can see from the pic above, none of it is going anywhere so the fit here is purely to keep it all concentric and not critical that its some super duper press fit.
I did not stop to think for one second that the harmonic balancer bottoms out onto the timing pulley. That would make sense (regardless of the #2 timing cover being in between them--there is a hole allowing them to contact) cause the crank bolt is torqued to 195lbft. And with everything aligned on the crankshaft, it would HAVE to place resistance on the torque of 195lbft; as a result, not a damn thing is sliding ANYWHERE.
Sigh....shiet, I missed that one hard.
Alright, next the materials used: Well one of the shop guys attempted the welding at first, so maybe his skills are not up to par?? I don't know. I just took his word for it when he said it was cast iron and couldn't be easily welded (in our shop). But this clears up how Titan Motorsports were able to weld the 2JZ timing pulley guides together (if its the same material); at first, I figured that would have been the best solution. Nonetheless, looking back on it, I prefer the "peening" over material method cause my only concern is the heat from welding warping the timing pulley (slightly) enough where it would be hard to fit back onto the crankshaft again (probably not that much of an issue). However, I'd imagine if the harmonic balancer is suppose to contact/bottom out onto the timing pulley then those welds might need to be sanded down so its flush with its top surface for a proper contact from the harmonic balancer....or maybe the harmonic balancer has a smaller diameter where it contacts slight inside/away from the welds?? Either way, I think the peening over method is better; if anything, its similar to what Toyota did.
But eh man, you shed some light on this subject matter and cleared up some misconceptions....much appreciated.
