7mge rebuild... rod ticked for a few seconds after first start. worry?!

[dragondriver5]

See for yourself.. car sounds great otherwise, but there was that rod tick that worries me

I had the same thing happen with a 4runner after a rebuild and never had a problem so I'm hoping this is the same situation.

Comments? Advice?

Here's the video clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrCix7-A39I

 

[CyFi6]

What were your bearing clearances? I hope you primed the oil system before you started it up! A dry start on a fresh motor can do some damage.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

That motor needs a new bottom end.. At least get the crank ground, resize the rods, and put undersized bearings in.. Otherwise get a new set of rods, crank and STD size bearings.. That bearing is going to spin, I don't care what motor it is, if its done right it will never knock on the first start up....

Something is WRONG!

 

[hvyman]

^you buy bearing sized to match the crank after the machinist has looked at it and polished it.


What weight oil are you using and why is there no coolant in the motor?

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

Correct, IE if the crank has never spun a bearing and clearances are correct (they need to be checked) then get the corresponding size bearing

 

[airhead04]

You didn't prime the oiling system before start up did you???

 

[dragondriver5]

bottom end was oiled yea. I had two people on another site tell me it was a valve that hadn't gotten oil to it yet, so I'm pretty sure that's what it was. I've started it and driven it a few times since then and hasn't made the noise since, so I think I'm ok

 

[airhead04]

Priming the system means you crank the system but dont let it start. Pull the efi fuse is the popular way to do it. That way oil gets to the HEAD so your valves dont do that when you first start it. You mat have been lucky this time, but since you said you did the to your 4runner as well, make sure if you build another engine, that you prime it correctly. Because the next one may not be so forgiving.

 

[mecevans]

It took me a nearly 2 min of cranking till I saw oil pressure. Revving the thing was DUMB! Did you even look at oil pressure?

 

[7Matt-GE]

Alls i can say is you're incredibly lucky that thing is even maintaining it's drivability right now. that was a VERY foolish thing to do.

 

[wardog]

bottom end was oiled yea. I had two people on another site tell me it was a valve that hadn't gotten oil to it yet, so I'm pretty sure that's what it was. I've started it and driven it a few times since then and hasn't made the noise since, so I think I'm ok

THose 2 people from another site were ON some serious shit bro. THat knock wasnt the valves, it was the rods were you failed to prime the system. I hope that there wasn't too much damage and it lasts. Next time PULL the EFi fuse and crank it till you see oil pressure guage move some. Then put the EFI fuse back in and crank it right up. GOOD LUCK

 

[enslaved87]

I don't think priming the system would have helped anything assuming the engine was assembled correctly with the right lubricant(s) from the get-go. You have at least one rod bearing that is going to find its way outside of the crank case in short order. Before it gets worse, pull the oil pan, plastigauge each bearing and replace the ones that need replacing. That will likely get you by assuming your core components weren't screwed initially. If you have bearing material left on the crank...well...get your cherry picker ready to pull that engine again.

 

[D.J.T.]

We use Engine lube, let the engine crank but never let it start & then drop the oil put in new oil & crank & start.

 

[enslaved87]

We use Engine lube, let the engine crank but never let it start & then drop the oil put in new oil & crank & start.

Well, if I was a betting man I'd say the rod bearings weren't checked properly for clearance during the build.

 

[carter]

ditto to the mpi fuse

That sounds deff, not a good way to start a good day/night or afternoon.