this may be a stupid question but...would a crank from a 7mge work fine in a 7mgte? are they the same? also would ge rods work in a gte or would it be best if i used gte rods? thanks for the help.
7mge crank in 7mgte?
- Thread starter zachm611
- Start date
You can use the crank, they are the same, get it balanced and line honed for the main caps of the different block. Rods, I'm not sure, but either way, you want the rods checked, stress relieved, all that jaz. They must be balanced to the crank you are using. I suggest using a crankshaft from a +89 supra, they are fully balance whereas the others are 6M cranks and have no counterweights on #2 and #5 cylinders.
thanks, im thinking about buying a bare gte block thats been machined and everything and i have a spare ge longblock in the garage, i was just curious. thanks again.
probably 350-450whp maybe 500 at the most, lol i know its a pretty big gap. i know it would be best just to do forged rods and pistons. forged pistons are in the plan already i just wanted to know about the crank mostly, and the rods i was curious about. thanks,
Zach
Zach
No need to line bore
Rods are the same
Both cranks are fully balanced but the later 7M crank has smaller counterweights on all throws whereas the early 6M style crank has larger counterweights and misses a couple of throws and will be harsher across the rev range.
Rods are the same
Both cranks are fully balanced but the later 7M crank has smaller counterweights on all throws whereas the early 6M style crank has larger counterweights and misses a couple of throws and will be harsher across the rev range.
Recently i heard that the 91+ cranks were better balanced than all the previous years. Don't quote me on that though
TW: Correct!
Guess I'm one of the few that's had both cranks in the same motor with no other changes within weeks so had a chance to make a direct comparison
7M
6M
Guess I'm one of the few that's had both cranks in the same motor with no other changes within weeks so had a chance to make a direct comparison
7M
6M
Rich: I'd have the block checked for straightness in the tunnels first then line bore if needed.
Too many things can go wrong during the procedure to do it if it isn't required.
Too many things can go wrong during the procedure to do it if it isn't required.
IJ. said:
Yep. The "6M" or older 7M crank not being fully balanced is a tired inaccurate statement.
87NA: There were only ever 2 cranks fitted to production 7M's both are in my pics on the previous page.
Unless of course if you meant "FrankenCrank" as fitted to my current motor
Unless of course if you meant "FrankenCrank" as fitted to my current motor
How many blocks with 100k miles on them are still straight? Once you mill the deck, a line bore will correct any run out on the crank. If done correctly, it never hurts anything. Our oil clearance is so tight, that even the smallest twist in the bottom will throw it all to one axis. But I agree, that a perfectly staight block will not need a line bore, but how many shops can check straightness to 4 decimals.
How many shops can or will correctly Line bore a block?
We could argue semantics all day but I stand by what I said I get it checked if it needs it it gets done if not I pass.
We could argue semantics all day but I stand by what I said I get it checked if it needs it it gets done if not I pass.