7M stroker build

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mk3ukr

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Apr 12, 2005
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And few last pictures to close this thread.
My 4 inch exhaust system ready. In the shop they inserted throttle body into the pipe - when TB open gases go straight through the system. When TB closed - gases pass through additional 60mm muffler and then through 4" resonator and resonated Aeroturbine muffler





TB actuated by lever between passenger and driver seats



Plastic air intake pipe, it has molded velocity stack



Engine bay



Hood

 
GC89

GC89

1J-THIS
Jun 13, 2007
938
3
18
38
Spokane, WA
Amazing work!:love:

That turbo and intake is rediculous, and I love the exaust, I always wanted to do something similar in 3.5" but decided there were more important matters in need of fab hours. Id love to see a few more shots of the exterior.
 
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mk3ukr

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Apr 12, 2005
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Thanks, guys
Car's exterior is not so nice, it needs paint job. Interior is even worse.
When looking from the side this huge hood scoop spoils from my point of view classic mk3 lines. Looks more like musclecar :)
I am driving this thing 2 days, motor feels like good torquey N/A. I tuned cruise and around town driveability, I can cruise at low 2000-2500rpm with very lean AFR higher then 17.0, beyond the range of WB gauge. With my previous resytrictive turbo motor was coughing and stumbling leaner then 15.5-16.0 AFR.
Turbo spool very slow, like expected, at 4.5K rpm I see 5-6psi of boost. I did nothing so far to tune for faster spool, don't want to risk spinning the car on old tires on public roads. Have to buy drag radials before next summer. I am sure it can be spooled faster, have to experiment with ignition timing, cam gears, and there is always nitrous which can help :)
 
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mk3ukr

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Apr 12, 2005
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OK, the thread is not yet over, here are some bad news - this Tuesday I broke the oil pump driveshaft. I was cruising at close to 3500rpm and heard short burst of not very loud knocking sounds from motor side. At the same time KnockLink display warning LED flashed brightly. I looked at oil pressure gauge, pressure was zero. Switched off ignition, engine ran no more then 5-10sec. without oil pressure.
I turned this driveshaft down to 8.5mm to avoid interference with beefy Pauter rods. This was weakest point of this rebuild and I expected that it can happen.
Then I was sitting on the road side waiting for tow track and calculating how much will it cost to convert motor to dry sump oil system :) There is no other option for me. I am sure I reduced shaft diameter too much, probably making it 9.5mm would be OK. Best way to go is Adjuster's way - reduce crankpin journals to Honda size and use Honda rods from Pauter.
Will continue this thread next summer when I have all parts from Peterson to do this job
 
F

funky_monkey58

Closing in on 200+MPH
Apr 3, 2006
1,307
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St.cloud MN
mk3ukr;1424203 said:
OK, the thread is not yet over, here are some bad news - this Tuesday I broke the oil pump driveshaft. I was cruising at close to 3500rpm and heard short burst of not very loud knocking sounds from motor side. At the same time KnockLink display warning LED flashed brightly. I looked at oil pressure gauge, pressure was zero. Switched off ignition, engine ran no more then 5-10sec. without oil pressure.
I turned this driveshaft down to 8.5mm to avoid interference with beefy Pauter rods. This was weakest point of this rebuild and I expected that it can happen.
Then I was sitting on the road side waiting for tow track and calculating how much will it cost to convert motor to dry sump oil system :) There is no other option for me. I am sure I reduced shaft diameter too much, probably making it 9.5mm would be OK. Best way to go is Adjuster's way - reduce crankpin journals to Honda size and use Honda rods from Pauter.
Will continue this thread next summer when I have all parts from Peterson to do this job
Click to expand...

This sucks to hear.

Now you can understand my questioning earlier on in this thread.

I was originally planning on building a stroker out of my 7M also, but after much thought I decided against it for several reasons. One of the main reasons I did not go stroker was it is an unproven engine to me. Not once have I seen results posted.

I would see allot of "it's a real stump puller" only to find out later that the car hadn't been ran let alone driven.

So in the end I do not regret going with the stock stroke, however I do regret not going with a higher C/R. A 10.5:1 ratio will help spool up a big turbo just as fast as your stroker.

When you do the tear down, I would like to see pics of the main engine bearings.
 
T

torch'd

New Member
Sep 18, 2007
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wow simply amazing... any idea on power numbers??? (i skipped a few pages)

makes me want another mkIII, or at least to reconsider my 7mgte 240sx idea
 
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mk3ukr

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Updates to this project.
I was away from home nearly 8 months, returned in August, took my car to the shop for some major body modifications.
This is my ATI th350 with CSR shield, took some efforts to install it.



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There is handhole cover on top of the tunnel, upper 2 transmission bolts can be removed only from the inside. Gas and brake pedals were slightly relocated to the left. A lot of work, when th350 fitted without protection shield tunnel requires only slight hammering AFAIK.
My tranny has deep sump, front side is hanging a little lower then side rails, maybe next year will have to modify this sump. Now, when I look back I think better idea would be shallow stock sump + B&M fluid consistency system, B&M canister can be placed anywhere.

I wanted to have pinion and transmission output shaft angle parallel and have max. 3 deg. u-joints operating angle. Finally I came with transmission shaft down 2.5 deg., pinion up 1.5deg, u-joints operating angles will be 2.5deg. This is still acceptable, when car launched pinion goes up.

Shifter position



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2 transmission oil coolers in the trunk, one cooler still without fan, I will stick 9' fan to it.



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Rear wheel wells were enlarged, maybe it looks like small job, it is not!!! Required also trimming of side skirts. On the picture my street tires MT 275/50/17 DR tires. For the strip I have 275/60/15 Hoosier DR, they are real 28', taller then MT on picture. MT is ~ 27.5'



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I removed my cylinder head, in the shop they did valve job, line bored cam saddles, machined relieves for SIP cams from Rich. I also went shimless buckets.




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suprarich

suprarich

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Nov 9, 2005
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Looking good! How much aluminum did you need to remove to allow the cam lobes to spin? Last several heads I build with my cams need a good amount removed.
 
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mk3ukr

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Rich, I asked them in the shop to remove minimum amount to allow lobes to rotate. I bought from Toyota 24 pcs shimless buckets, size 5.24mm, in the shop they shortened valve stems to get 0.15mm lash for intake and 0.20mm for exhaust valves.

NashMan;1636715 said:
nice nice
Click to expand...

Thanks, Nash. Car interior is very dirty and not all work is done yet. Next summer have to do dry sump, I received all parts for this job, need to fabricate pump bracket only. 3 gal. tank will be in the trunk.
I thought previously going from manual to auto involves big weight penalty. With this th350 setup I have around 15-20lb extra vs. R154 and some of it went to the rear, which is good thing.
 
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