7M assembly tips.

[midwestwerks2jz]

very good thread! packed with great info. now if only people could read lol :biglaugh:

 

[CyFi6]

Adjuster, any reason you torqued the head studs down to 103ft lbs? Seems high, as ARP specs are 80-85ft lbs (depending on the date they were made). More than the strength of the ARP studs, i would be worried about bore distortion. Also, if you used a torque plate, you should mention the gasket you plan to use should be installed with it, with the ARP studs, torqued to your final torque value. If you torque the plate down to 70ft lbs and intall the head at 85ft lbs, it kind of makes the torque plate useless as you will distort the bore differently than before. Be sure to torque the main caps before it goes to the machine shop as well. Also, not a bad idea to set ring gaps with the torque plate installed.

Im also not sure why you had so many issues with the paper gaskets. As long as they are quality gaskets they should do fine, i usually use a spray of copper spray on them to insure i will be free of leaks. Its reccomended that silicone sealants be used as little as possible in the lubrication system as well.

I guess i should also throw in that replacing the squirter bolts under the pistons is a good idea, as ARZ did some testing and found that old used ones relived pressure at a much lower pressure.

Oh, and when it comes to cleaning out all the passages, Harbor Freight sells a great 9 piece nylon bore brush kit for just a few dollars.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90631

BTW thanks for making this thread, it has given a lot of great tips and helped with my build very much!

 

[IJ.]

My "guess" is he used engine oil instead of Moly lube.

 

[kamikazemkiii]

great thread

 

[Van]

Adjuster wrote: "Care around the studs/bolts that go into the block cooling passges will result in NO leaks. No care (or) sealant here will result in the mystery leak of huge proportions and much swearing and cursing will not fix it."

I used the stock Toyota gaskets coated with FIPG from Toyota, also applied a thin bead of FIPG on the block and cover plate, but nothing on the threads.
Do you recommend use of teflon sealant on the threads going into the cooling passages of the block, for the front timing cover plate, studs and bolts? Van

 

[gixxer750]

Adjuster wrote: "Care around the studs/bolts that go into the block cooling passges will result in NO leaks. No care (or) sealant here will result in the mystery leak of huge proportions and much swearing and cursing will not fix it."

I used the stock Toyota gaskets coated with FIPG from Toyota, also applied a thin bead of FIPG on the block and cover plate, but nothing on the threads.
Do you recommend use of teflon sealant on the threads going into the cooling passages of the block, for the front timing cover plate, studs and bolts? Van

They make a "thread sealant" that is manufactured by 3m, permatex, loctite and some others... That should suffice just fine. I would only use it on bolts that go directly into the coolant passages.

You have to do this on the 2jz flywheel bolts, as they are open on the other end of the crankshaft and if not oil will leak out around the bolts and will appear as a rear main seal leak.

 

[Van]

They make a "thread sealant" that is manufactured by 3m, permatex, loctite and some others... That should suffice just fine. I would only use it on bolts that go directly into the coolant passages.

You have to do this on the 2jz flywheel bolts, as they are open on the other end of the crankshaft and if not oil will leak out around the bolts and will appear as a rear main seal leak.

Thanks! I see in the TSRM, that I need to apply the sealant to three or four threads on the 10mm bolts, for the water pump. Van

 

[Adjuster]

Sorry guys, I've been really busy lately, and have not had much time here.

I ended up at 103 lbs on moly? Why, well it was really early in the morning when I was done with this motor, about 3am IIRC, and it's where I ended up.

I agree, looking back, it would have been better to have stayed at 85 to 90lbs on the moly lube.

The gasket on my engine is a Greddy metal one. (It's been in 4 motors so far, no leaks.)

I have been very careful about how it's removed, it was cut this last time between the tourqe plate and the block, and it's coated with brake quiet... (I know, a sin according to many, but if you have a bare metal head gasket, it works great. If you have one coated with a rubber coating, don't spray it down, just install it clean.)

On the question of the sealer, yes, there are a few bolts that go into the cooling jacket.. Make sure you use sealer on them, or you will get leaks. I found the sealer works so well, you don't need paper gaskets at all. Just a steady hand, and I like "The right stuff" it's like "Cheese wiz" only you are putting a nice perfect bead of sealant down, and you don't have to cramp your hand trying to get an even flow of it. Just depress the nozzle, and it flows out. Perfect every time.

BTW, the 103lbs has not seemed to cause any problems, but I have not broken anything in a very long while, and so I've not had this motor apart.. LOL

 

[Van]

Another question came up from the engine builder: Am I going to remove the valve cover baffels, to clean the crud from 205,000 miles of synthetic oil use? I already had the covers in a solvent tank, washed in a washing machine and pressure washed. Then thermal coated and put in an oven at 400 degrees for two hours. I would need to drill out the rivets on the cover to do what he is asking...
Is this really necessary? :dunno:
Thanks, to everyone who got back with me on my question about which sealant to use for the water pump bolts. Van

 

[Zach]

Another question came up from the engine builder: Am I going to remove the valve cover baffels, to clean the crud from 205,000 miles of synthetic oil use? I already had the covers in a solvent tank, washed in a washing machine and pressure washed. Then thermal coated and put in an oven at 400 degrees for two hours. I would need to drill out the rivets on the cover to do what he is asking...
Is this really necessary? :dunno:
Thanks, to everyone who got back with me on my question about which sealant to use for the water pump bolts. Van

I'd remove them, especially if they've been thermal coated. Odds are the coating shop blasted them with some form of abrasive, which never gets thoroughly cleaned out unless you remove the baffles. Take a hammer and chisel and knock the rivets off, then drill and tap for 6mm x 1.0 fasteners. I use stainless steel socket head bolts with washers and red loctite. Just a little junk on top of those baffles could chew up a whole motor. It's also an excuse to drill and tap for bigger breather lines on the valve covers

 

[Van]

I'd remove them, especially if they've been thermal coated. Odds are the coating shop blasted them with some form of abrasive, which never gets thoroughly cleaned out unless you remove the baffles. Take a hammer and chisel and knock the rivets off, then drill and tap for 6mm x 1.0 fasteners. I use stainless steel socket head bolts with washers and red loctite. Just a little junk on top of those baffles could chew up a whole motor. It's also an excuse to drill and tap for bigger breather lines on the valve covers

Russ Meeks of Finishline Coatings, who did the thermal dispersant coating, used paint removal gel and a heat gun to get the stock finish off, to get the surface he needed, for the coating. Van

 

[Van]

I'd remove them, especially if they've been thermal coated. Odds are the coating shop blasted them with some form of abrasive, which never gets thoroughly cleaned out unless you remove the baffles. Take a hammer and chisel and knock the rivets off, then drill and tap for 6mm x 1.0 fasteners. I use stainless steel socket head bolts with washers and red loctite. Just a little junk on top of those baffles could chew up a whole motor. It's also an excuse to drill and tap for bigger breather lines on the valve covers

I went ahead and had the baffles removed, and they had a lot of carbonized oil on them. Glad I listened and followed your suggestion! Van

 

[7M-KDL]

i have a few questions. i just got my motor back from the machine shop but i intend to re-torque and re-seal a few areas. my first question is, does anyone know what the torque spec on ARP main studs is? second question,i have a titan/cometic MHG which seems to be just metal(no coating), should i use copper spray or something or just put it on there bare? i also need the torque spec for ARP rod bolts if anyone has them. i gave all my hardware and instructions to the engine builder but, since they had already done the work, i did not receive the paper with the torque specs when i picked up the motor. i do have the one that came with the head studs because they never installed them or the head. thanks in advance

 

[K_SHAN]

I'd like to add that Adjusters motor is still running and making 500+ to this day.. in a different car, but still runs like a boss

even though the new owners turbo is junk as smokes like a bitch. +1!