2jzge into 1990 Supra didn't fit perfectly

[Bernett]

I put my 2jzge engine in my 1990 Supra expecting it to pretty much just drop into place and ran into difficulties. First I thought you could use the engine mounts from the 2jzge engine. They were too high. Then I put on my old engine mounts and the sump was hitting the cross member on the drivers side. My engine mount was too low. I had to add spacers on that side, almost 3/4" to get the sump not to contact the frame. My transmission ended up being about 3/4" too far back. I had to enlarge the mounting holes on the transmission mount and could only get 2 bolts to go in the holes. Luckily my drive shaft fits but I had to remove that round metal guard at the back of the output shaft to avoid it hitting the U joints of the drive shaft. Has anyone else had to deal with this situation. I seem to remember someone else writing about the sump hitting that cross bar. Right now my engine is slightly tilted. I don't think that will be a problem but it is annoying for me to have to make those adjustments. It also took a lot longer. I'm beginning to wonder if this swap was worth it. I'm still a ways from starting the engine. I need to add the harness and all the other things.

Any advice on how to correct this would be great. I really don't want to have to pull the engine again if possible.

Paul

 

[Getsideways86.5]

I did the 1jz swap last winter.. the mounts I had to buy. The 7m mounts and 1jz mounts would not work. I had the same issue. The new mounts gave me almost an inch between the head and fire wall.. now the transmission mount I did have to make, and my drive shaft is a combo of sc300 and 7m. Now if you don't have the engine squared up almost perfectly, you will have a vibration on take off. Just out of curiosity, why 2jzge?

 

[Bernett]

I have the engine squared up but it is slightly rotated. I don't think that will be a problem since it's not a carburetor and I have to worry about floats. I had never messed with my old engine mounts and was surprised when I took out my 7mge engine to find that the mounts just sit on top of the rubber portion of the mounts. I would have thought the bolts went all the way through the mount. I still wonder why the engine doesn't rotate when you accelerate hard. I'm glad I didn't have to make my transmission mount only modify it. I selected the 2jzge because I live in Northern VA and going fast really isn't an option because of traffic. I also didn't want to deal with installing an intercooler and mess with turbos. I really would have stayed with another 7mge engine but I didn't want to do a head gasket on the JDM engine before installing it and not doing one would only mean I'd be doing one later. Now I'm beginning to wonder if I should have just stayed with the 7mge engine. It's too late now so I'll make this work. My wife doesn't like the amount of time I spend working on cars and this project isn't helping me defend that argument. I'm not sure if cutting away some of the cross member makes sense because I'm sure it's structural. That is the only way I'll get the engine to sit level. That or raise the other side but I'm not sure I like that idea because I think I'm pushing the limits for space underneath the hood. Thanks for your feedback.

Paul

 

[Getsideways86.5]

then why dont you lift or put spacers on the other engine mount? you have more room under the hood than you think. ive had a 350 in my car at one point.. you will have room. but idealy you should buy mounts.

 

[hvyman]

You did something wrong. Either do not have the mounts in the correct spot on the block or they are backwards.

Usually the lower oil pan may rest on the bracket for the steering rack but not a huge issue. That usually with old stock 89+ mounts.

Shouldn't have had to modify anything with the right parts. It's plug and play

 

[Bernett]

I received the 2jzge engine and used the engine mounts that came with the engine. Then when I figured out they were too long, I left the part of the mount bolted to the block and put on my 7mge engine mounts. The right side fit fine but left side was touching the crossmember just behind the steering rack. It was touching the back locking part of the steering rack clamp. Please let me know if I was supposed to use the upper part of the engine mount that bolts to the block from the 2jzge engine and the lower part is the old 7mge mounts. I can still change things pretty easily. Is it OK for the edge of the sump to touch the crossmember? I'm trying to avoid that.

 

[Bernett]

I just decided that I need new engine mounts and bought the ones from Driftmotion. I hope they do the trick. I realized that the fact that my old mounts had separated wasn't normal. I thought it was weird when they came off in two parts, top and bottom.

 

[hvyman]

It's ok for the edge of the lower steel black oil pan to hit the rack mount. It will bend itself out of the way easy as it barely rests on it.

Your supposed to use the stock 7m engine mounts for any year and if 89+ can use mk4 mounts as another option. The mount brackets have to be jza70 factory brackets or the steel welded ones specific to pre or post 89.

 

[Bernett]

That is good to know that it's OK for the oil pan to touch the crossmember. I should have the new mounts in a few days and get them in over the weekend. I'm working on getting my starter connected so I can run compression tests on the cylinders before I put back the intake manifold.

 

[f00g00]

I would say no on the rubbing. Every time your engine shifts it will rub and scrape the cross member. I put the 2J mounts in my 1J swap after trying 89+ mounts, aftermarket mounts from revshift (worthless silicone mounts couldn't handle the weight) to the 2J mounts and it sits great and doesn't hit the cross member.
Do you have a rear sump pan on there?

 

[Bernett]

Yes I have the rear sump engine. I'll do my best to avoid any contact but we'll see how it fits with the new mounts.